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Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

Thread: AE compatibility and other questions. Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
11-30-2018 09:31 PM
Hjalbertiii Sucess! The reman IDM I bought came in Wednesday. I work so much today's the first day I could get to it. I put it in, cranked it up and it now has full throttle response, and none of the previous codes. I drove it and OMG it's fast. I've driven powerstrokes before, maybe it's the hearing being a super duty, or maybe it's got a chip, I don't know. I'm gonna run some quarter mile times using the Torque app. Thanks for the assistance and advice. If anyone cares I bought it on eBay for $170 shipped with a lifetime free replacement warranty. It may have only been tested and painted and resealed, but for the money and no core charge I couldn't pass it up. Now I just need to find a goose neck that fits the narrower frame, or a flat bed with one and a class 4 or 5 hitch and I'll be good to go.
11-25-2018 05:32 PM
79jasper Probably used to have water in it.

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11-25-2018 01:34 PM
Hjalbertiii I went ahead and pulled the IDM and opened it up. Some of the white heat sink goop had hardened into chalky flaky chunks and was loose in the case. Idk if that's a symptom of anything. There was no water in the case, but I noticed a little bit of damage.
11-24-2018 12:19 AM
Originally Posted by Texkenusmc View Post
The long john mod looks like a South Leland mod.
. Do we know each other? I live in Leland, USMC, from Louisiana, and lived for a time closer to Orange than I'd like to admit.
11-23-2018 04:02 PM
Texkenusmc The long john mod looks like a South Leland mod.
11-23-2018 02:02 PM
79jasper I would replace the ipr, could be shorted internally.
The check engine light should always do that fast flash at first key on.

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11-23-2018 12:53 PM
Hjalbertiii I tested the harness by unplugging it from the IDM and checking the resistance between the pins using this diagram. For test one the measured resistance on my meter was 3.8 ohms. A little higher than listed but that's probably my meter. Test two and three were fine. I've got that orifice valve getting delivered today. I went ahead and ordered a refurbished IDM on eBay. The one that's in there is a replacement but I didn't put it in, it was in there when I bought the truck. Is there another test I can do? Am Imissing something? Wouldn't the continuity tests (ideally) show any wiring issues under the valve covers?
I am getting the right resistance and the injectors are buzzing on the buzz test, and not tripping any codes until after the engine is run and revved up to where it "flatlines", lots of white smoke if I don't back off the throttle, And then I get varying high to low codes when I shut it down and run the buzz test again, which tells me they are being trapped while it's doing the nasty flatline. If all I do is crank it up and rev it a little or let it idle it doesn't set any codes. Also, the check engine light doesn't come on when it's misbehaving. It will if I unplug the IPR, and it lights up for a 1/4 sec when I turn the key on. Sorry I'm rambling. Hopefully the IDM will be here by Monday and that will fix it.
11-17-2018 11:37 PM
79jasper At this point, you may try swapping the old idm back in.
But you could be having a harness problem.

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11-17-2018 05:31 PM
Hjalbertiii I got a gauge hooked up and when I would rev it up it would bounce between 30-50. I took the fpr off and put a pellet under the spring and it revved up to 2000 RPMs (normally have to feather it to get there). With the pellet idle psi was Bouncing between 60-80. At 2000 rpm bounces so fast but looks to still dip below 40 and go as high as 110. I need to get a liquid filled gauge. I also ran another buzz test after this and it had these codes in the IDM. Similar but there were more the first time I did it. I'm glad I got the truck cheap. I wish I had another IDM to try. The one in there is a replacement unit.
11-17-2018 03:38 PM
Hjalbertiii This part is warped/cracked, and the screen is missing.
11-17-2018 03:21 PM
Hjalbertiii I'm stumped. I took out the selector valve and cleaned it and verified it is functioning properly. I repaired the tank pickup, cleaned the tank. Added fresh fuel. Still won't rev above 2000. Fuel pressure is around 50 psi at idle. It goes up a little around 1000 RPMs. I ordered a new fuel pressure regulator orifice and check ball. The original had a cracked piece where one of the orings sits. I don't think that's the cause though. It's frustrating to think I had found the cause only to find out there's something else. If the injectors we're trashed from low pressure wouldn't it throw a code during either contribution test or KOER?
11-12-2018 10:13 PM
79jasper Could be pieces from the pickup lodged in the lines or selector valve.

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11-12-2018 08:40 PM
Hjalbertiii Thanks for continuing to say fuel supply fuel supply fuel supply. Now, I guess what has to be the problem is the selector. It's gotta be jammed or clogged or something, or maybe there is a shirt in the back tank also! I'm hoping no permanent damage was done to the injectors. I'm going to replace the fuel pickup foot since it was floating on the bottom, with the bypass valve and screen separated from it. There doesn't appear to have ever been a mixing chamber. Then I will make sure the valve is functioning properly and attempt to run it off of the front tank before I go to the trouble of dropping the rear tank. There's a skid plate that is in the way, and it's wet and chilly outside.
11-12-2018 01:30 PM
79jasper Never seen that, but theres your problem. Lol

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11-12-2018 12:55 PM
Hjalbertiii Seriously. An entire extra large longjohn top was all entangled around the sending unit.
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