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Rusty Oil Pan Fix ? Anyone Tried?

26K views 16 replies 10 participants last post by  powerquest290  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi - I have the fun oil pan rust issue....:sick: Found the video and product from Damian Diesel in MA;


has anyone tried this product [fiberglass shell around the pan?]

Seems like the right way to fix it without the motor removal, my pan has the rust at front edge mostly, so structurally the pan is OK most other areas.

I have Rust Bullet on order to treat the pan with, but was thinking to go with the Damian kit. I will post the kit price once I talk with them..

Anyone have comments? I did do a search and read the threads related to this issue, but no comments exactly on the Damian fix.

Thanks,

Coolhand
 
#2 ·
I had this problem with my 93. during an oil change I left pan plug out overnight so it drained down good. Then I wire wheeled and wire brushed it and a bit of sand paper. Next I cleaned it up with lacquer thinner - don't use alcohol as it leaves a residue. You'll have a few holes that keep leaking oil, touch up these holes with the two part epoxy leaving it to dry then wiping the pan down again with lacquer thinner and hitting the epoxy with sand paper. Then go over the whole pan with two part epoxy and paint it. Had the van for 5 years after that no problems. I can't remember the name of the epoxy but it was one part white and one part black (used like 15 sets). Read the label for chemical resistance.
 
#4 ·
I am going to have to do this myself soon. Can we keep the ideas flowing? So far my thoughts are to drain and rough wire wheel. Then try to hit it with one of the rust converting primers then a nice epoxy paint.

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#5 ·
I used J&B weld on my old truck it worked good make sure you let it cure fully before you put oil in it.Clean it real good.I tired some other stuff I got from a buddy that works at a nuke plant but it didnot work with the Oil J&B does.good luck.
 
#6 ·
POR-15 Works great !!!!
 
#8 ·
Oil Pan

While replacing the starter i decided to do the POR15 treatment. I didn't jack the truck up on stands or a lift...so I had plenty of time on my back sanding and washing and using the prep-n-ready. I had rust and pitting in some spots. It worked as advertised. I followed the directions exactly.

Make sure you get the grey...it is best for covering rust and filling pits. Recommend highly that you get yellow dish gloves vice the regular latex gloves they provided. POR15 doesn't come off your skin for a couple of days.
 
#10 ·
Guys, Thanks for all the comments, I posted the video link I was referring too.

Coolhand
 
#11 ·
I seen that video last year after I did my fix.I would do it if your oil pan is real bad it will cover the whole bottom of the pan.How mutch do they charge for the fiberglass pan.You could try just fiberglassing the pan.its not that hard to work with but real messy.I have a fiberglass lobster boat and skiff(row boat) good luck with it.Bill
 
#12 ·
Hi - I spoke with Damian that made the kit. He charges 255 with shipping. Key is not the fiberglass shell per se [you could get a junk pan and make a shell] it is the polysulfide adhesive that is key. Polysulfide is used in building wet wing aircraft, to seal the aluminum panels to keep jet fuel in. It is petroleoum resistant, and has a -65 to + 270 temp range. My concern with JB weld or epoxy is the thermal cycling over time, it will fail. Polysulfide stays viscous in a manner that allows it to absorb the thermal changes cycle after cycle..

To me, I ordered the kit - will update this link with how it went. Overall this seems like the best long term fix as treatments such as; POR-15 etc only fix the metal remaining. In my case the pan is very thin in places - and living on a dirt - gravel road and taking my truck into fields to get hay etc, I want more than a tin foil oil pan... Just my view.

Regards,

Coolhand
 
#13 ·
I have noticed that i have some paint peeling off but not leaking, i should address this issue and get a good coat of paint back on her.. for those that have leaks, why isn't anyone welding metal back in?? The pan is steel, I would rather have a steel patch rather than jb weld, epoxy, fiberglass...etc?? just my 2 cents. for total pan replacement does the engine have to come out, can you get the pan out if you just jack the engine up in the truck??
 
#14 ·
I have heard of welding patches, issue I see is that when you weld, the oil that is on the pan under the weld will turn to sludge, will the filter catch it first? I would rather not bet...

I understand that getting the pan out could be done by jacking it up. the sealer ford uses needs hammer / crowbar to remove pan, then to reseal the new one while in the truck can be difficult.

Most folks have the engine pulled, I understand 1800 bucks or more to have it done that way.

Not an expert, just relating what I understand.

Coolhand
 
#15 ·
Well, I am a lexus tech by trade and most of our pan sealer you have to beat them apart with a chisel and hammer, resealing it can be tricky but nothing that can't be done (in the car too) From the way everyone talks, the pan can't be taken off in the truck....now, it it can, i'll just jack up the engine and replace it in the truck if it comes down to it. I still need to clean and apply a fresh coat of paint though..
 
#16 ·
Hey Powerquest make sure you remove the turbo and downpipe before jacking the engine, not much room back there! I saw it done once, easier said than done.
I don't know about the rest of you but after watching the video I will be painting my oil pan this summer!