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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I'm going to try this again with some different details.

The truck won't start unless I use a prybar on the frame mounted solenoid. I have replaced the ignition switch no change. I get no power at the NSS or solenoid when attempting to crank. If I turn the key everything works on the dash I even get the WTS however if I attempt to start it, nothing except for the click from the interior relay. I have pulled the fuse box apart and corrosion was really non existent and nothing wet. The plugs that go into the fuse box appear fine too? The truck was running fine I had just decided to work on trailer harness one day as I wasn't getting left blinkers on my trailer. I popped a fuse while working on it. I replaced the fuse after repairing harness in the rear and I tried to restart the truck and its been dead ever since. What the frick, does anyone have any suggestions? I don't want to have to start my truck off the solenoid.

I appreciate the input and hope someone has the answer.
 

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Check the output of the start contact on the ignition switch when you turn the key to start. It'll have a red/lt blue wire connected to it. If you don't have power there then trace back to fuse #20 (50A) in the underhood fuse box. That feeds power to the ignition switch start circuits.

From the ignition switch, the circuit runs thru fuse #20 in the central junction box under the dash to the Clutch Pedal Position switch jumper block (or CPPS if it's a manual tranny) then to the DTRS and to the starter relay. The transmission needs to be in either park or neutral for power to get thru the DTRS to the starter relay.
 

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Have you tried starting it in neutral instead of park?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I do have power on the feed wire at the ignition when I attempt to crank it....




I have tried to start it in every gear and my column is bolted up nice and tight. I have also tried wiggling the key around while trying to start it. I even went and bought a new ignition switch, nothing changed. i also swapped my relays around and it changed nothing.

I have even tried jumping the NSS from pin 10 to pin 12 still nothing. I do have reverse lights tho when in reverse. So what gives? this is like a fricking riddle?..I don't get it everything fine and one day nothing.
 

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I don't get it everything fine and one day nothing.
That's usually the way things break, so no mystery there. It's the intermittent stuff that drives you crazy. :|

You need to follow the power (voltage) thru each component. When you get past one and find no voltage downstream, you've found your culprit. The fact that you get a reverse light means nothing, as it's a separate circuit thru the DTRS (what you're calling the NSS). The circuit inside the DTRS going to the starter relay could be toast and the reverse lights still work fine.

If you had power thru the ignition switch, I'm wondering why you changed that. Waste of money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Check the output of the start contact on the ignition switch when you turn the key to start. It'll have a red/lt blue wire connected to it. If you don't have power there then trace back to fuse #20 (50A) in the underhood fuse box. That feeds power to the ignition switch start circuits.

From the ignition switch, the circuit runs thru fuse #20 in the central junction box under the dash to the Clutch Pedal Position switch jumper block (or CPPS if it's a manual tranny) then to the DTRS and to the starter relay. The transmission needs to be in either park or neutral for power to get thru the DTRS to the starter relay.
Have you tried starting it in neutral instead of park?
That's usually the way things break, so no mystery there. It's the intermittent stuff that drives you crazy. :|

You need to follow the power (voltage) thru each component. When you get past one and find no voltage downstream, you've found your culprit. The fact that you get a reverse light means nothing, as it's a separate circuit thru the DTRS (what you're calling the NSS). The circuit inside the DTRS going to the starter relay could be toast and the reverse lights still work fine.

If you had power thru the ignition switch, I'm wondering why you changed that. Waste of money.
I bought the ignition switch because I had already tried everything else. I plan to return it though.

The reason I noted the reverse lights is I tried to straight jump the circuit with no change. The reverse lights show power is getting to the DTRS and going out to the reverse lights.

The only diagram I have is the one in the general one n the haynes manual not specific to the 2000.

It has worked me over I know that, its been a thorn in my side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Check the output of the start contact on the ignition switch when you turn the key to start. It'll have a red/lt blue wire connected to it. If you don't have power there then trace back to fuse #20 (50A) in the underhood fuse box. That feeds power to the ignition switch start circuits.

From the ignition switch, the circuit runs thru fuse #20 in the central junction box under the dash to the Clutch Pedal Position switch jumper block (or CPPS if it's a manual tranny) then to the DTRS and to the starter relay. The transmission needs to be in either park or neutral for power to get thru the DTRS to the starter relay.
so if its an automatic does it still have some kind of jumper block since you said then to the DTRS?
 

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so if its an automatic does it still have some kind of jumper block since you said then to the DTRS?
Yes, auto tranny trucks have a jumper block on the plug that would connect to the Clutch Pedal Position Switch. Look up under the dash outboard of the brake pedal pivot shaft. I'd be surprised if the jumper block wasn't still in place though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, auto tranny trucks have a jumper block on the plug that would connect to the Clutch Pedal Position Switch. Look up under the dash outboard of the brake pedal pivot shaft. I'd be surprised if the jumper block wasn't still in place though.
Does anyone have an actual 2000 schematic on the starting circuit?
 

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Does anyone have an actual 2000 schematic on the starting circuit?
I described the flow from the ignition switch to the starter relay in my first reply. :dunno:

The fact that you "have power to the DTRS" doesn't mean anything, because the reverse light circuit is SEPARATE from the start circuit.

If you still can't get it figured out, post back and I can send you the diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I described the flow from the ignition switch to the starter relay in my first reply. :dunno:

The fact that you "have power to the DTRS" doesn't mean anything, because the reverse light circuit is SEPARATE from the start circuit.

If you still can't get it figured out, post back and I can send you the diagram.
Ok thanks, I plan to work on it tomorrow afternoon.
 
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