[deepwate1r]

I have an oil leak somewhere around the rear of my engine, I can't see anything from the top. I was thinking that it might be a rear engine seal, but appears to be coming from above that.
I have heard there is an o-ring seal of some type that goes with an oil line, but can't seem to locate it?
Does anyone have any ideas where this might be, and how hard it is to repair?
Thanks For ANY Help !
Steve

 

[gregrob]

Generally it is the turbo pedestal O-rings. The turbo sits on a pedestal and the pedestal is bolted to the top of the engine. The turbo is supplied oil from the engine through the pedestal and also has a drain back port to return the oil to the engine.

The O-rings are common to leak. That's the first place I would check, it's common for people to 'swear' that it's the rear main seal, and it almost never is.

The O-rings you want will be yellow (Viton) and are more resistant to higher temperatures than the old black ones.
Your Ford or IH dealer should have them, or you can have a hose shop match them up for you, I think one of them is #5 BOSS.

The smaller is supply (under pressure) and the larger is the drainback.

HTH, Good luck

 

[deepwate1r]

Thanks alot Gregrob!! I ahd someone tell me he was almost sure it wasn't the rear seal.... Thanks again for the info...
Steve

 

[gregrob]

[ QUOTE ]
Thanks alot Gregrob!! I ahd someone tell me he was almost sure it wasn't the rear seal.... Thanks again for the info...
Steve

[/ QUOTE ]

You're welcome.

 

[LeRoy]

Could also be the HPOP and or the hoses feeding the heads.

LeRoy

 

[BIG JOE]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Thanks alot Gregrob!! I ahd someone tell me he was almost sure it wasn't the rear seal.... Thanks again for the info...
Steve

[/ QUOTE ]

You're welcome.

[/ QUOTE ]

Now that kind of "Back'n Forth" is refreshing..... On here.

 

[ponyboychris]

Mine is leaking in the same spot. I noticed the drip of oil from the TC cover. My HPOP lines are fine, the oil is under the turbo in the rear of the valley soooo it's those pesky O-rings. I'll probably take the truck in to have it repaired since it's still under warranty - it looks to be a real pain to get to... and I'm not that motivated to tear into it. Look, I just talked myself into it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

 

[mgwerks]

So, how long a job is it, the first time for one with decent mechanical skills? Other than the o-rings, any other parts or shop supplies necessary? Mine is driping too, and it's really bugging me...

 

[gregrob]

[ QUOTE ]
So, how long a job is it, the first time for one with decent mechanical skills? Other than the o-rings, any other parts or shop supplies necessary? Mine is driping too, and it's really bugging me...

[/ QUOTE ]

I'd budget 6 hours, 4 if you really know what you're doing and everything goes well.

 

[stackedpsd99]

[ QUOTE ]
I have an oil leak somewhere around the rear of my engine, I can't see anything from the top.

[/ QUOTE ]
Just remember, oil will go everywhere BUT forward

[ QUOTE ]
I have heard there is an o-ring

[/ QUOTE ]
The O-rings on the HPOP fittings are actually #6 O-ring boss. The ports in the head are #5. You can get them at any hydraulic shop.

If it is not the turbo pedistal, then it's the HPOP O rings. The way you describe the leak sounds like the one I had. Is it small amounts and how long has it been going on for? Is it getting worse? I couldn't see the leak until I REALLY Looked closely at the hpop, then I found it oozin out, ever so slightly but it sure is a gusher when the truck is running... here is a picture Anyways you'll need some locktite, the Orings and a few tools. Stealership says it will take 3-4 hours @ $75.00 an hour + materials. If you go here you can see my thread. It took from 04/06/06 12:32 PM till 04/06/06 03:38 PM to find the leak, get oil/materials needed from dealer and wal mart and change 2 of the 3 O rings that looked worn. Total 3 hours to get stuff, actual work took about 1.5 hours.


FYI - I needed 2 gallons of oil, I think a 5/8 wrench, a #47 torx at a 90 degree angle (or a straight one with a wrench to twist it b/c it becomes oily and slippery) some paper (makeshift funnel to fill HPOP res), strong battery charger, allen wrench(s), a good memory lol since you have to take apart some fuel lines so that you can crank on the Hpop fitting (lots of little springs and plastic pieces, ALOT of papertowels, and small container to pour the oil into the HPOP. Total install was like 1.5 hours but after reviewing the info, I didn't replace ONE of the O rings, but it wasn't leaking so like JimTJr said, if it ain't broke don't fix it. After you do this install, letting the fuel pump run its course (to fill the fuel filter since you d/c it and drained it) and crankin' it a few times it started!

lol it feels good to do it. ALSO FYI, there will be oil/diesel in the valley since you had the lines off... spray degreaser and blow out with water, it will ''leak'' oil for a little while, but in reality its just the excess running out of the valley down the back of the engine block and tansmission. You can tell that its just water if you get up under it though. to add to the tools used, a 12"+ needlenose does wonders precisely picking up small springs (inside all fittings) and the HPOP cap from the valley of the motor. They are so small, slippery, in tight, and of course 'springy' so you're likely to lose them if your not very careful.

 

[DoubleMeat]

Thanks for the great info Maintain.


That's where mine was leaking as well (HPOP line fittings).

Now if only I could go back 2 hours to before I gave the go ahead to the shop to do this for me.... Ah well, live and learn.

 

[stackedpsd99]

Just because I'm curious, how much did they charge you?

 

[anash13]

Good Morning Gents;
I have the same problem with an Oil leak at the rear of the Eng.
However, Everything on top of the Eng. is Dry as bone.
All the oil is in fact leaking from the bottom of the Bell housing area.
As I stated the remainder of the whole Eng. is dry.
Van is currently in shop, It should be ready today for pickup.
I'll get back to you Gents with a final read out of just what the problem was.

 

[DoubleMeat]

About 300 bucks at Christian Bros.

They're talking about replacing the fittings..didn't mention O-rings.

Guess I'll see on the invoice when I pick it up.

With my luck, I would have lost every one of those dang springs doing it myself.

At least if it happens again, I have a better idea on how to fix it.

 

[bobsherrie]

[ QUOTE ]
Just because I'm curious, how much did they charge you?

[/ QUOTE ]

I just had the same problem while traveling, and had to have a dealer repair the leak. They replaced an elbow, part #F81Z9C402AA, which was part of the HPOP line to one head. I could see that the o-ring was sticking out. It was running oil out pretty bad when running. Anyway, it cost me $325-$209 labor, $85 parts, and the rest taxes and misc. shop charges.Ouch! But I couldn't do much about it at the time.

 

[ponyboychris]

After hearing all of this, I'm going to schedule mine in for service at the stealership since it should only cost me the $100 deductable. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif

 

[stackedpsd99]

If I'd of known this when I had my problem
[ QUOTE ]
The O-rings on the HPOP fittings are actually #6 O-ring boss. You can get them at any hydraulic shop.


[/ QUOTE ]

I could have fixed mine for about $0.23 and if I ever have to again, that's all I'll spend.

I spent like $27.00 at the dealer to get the 3-Oring kit with a small tube of Locktite and instructions (that I didn't use lol).

 

[jd350b]

What does HPOP stand for? Or what is it?

Thanks in advance,
JD

 

[Ran440]

HPOP = High Pressure Oil Pump
It's the oil pump that feeds the injectors.

Randy

 

[jd350b]

Thanks Randy. One more if you don't mind. oil to the injectors? Are you referring to diesel as oil or is there actually engine oil going to the injectors?

JD