[davenkc]

I've got an 03 F-250 6.0 with 36,000 miles on it. I really haven't had any serious problems with it other than the early rolling idle problem a lot of people had. Took it out last week for it's first hard pull of the season with our 5th wheel. Had two 4 hour runs and one 8 hour run. The same thing happened each time. About 1 hour into the trip the pedal would go dead. I could step on the gas and nothing would happen. The tach would not budge and it sounded like the throttle hadn't changed position. Anywhere from 5 to 30 seconds later the engine would start to make power and it would pull like normal. Once this started it would keep happening until I pulled over shut the truck off and restarted it. It would work fine then, but the problem would recur later. I could always correct this by shutting off the truck and restarting it.

The second problem (which I don't know if it's related to the first) is about 3 hours into the trip on the highway the truck would start bucking and missing very violently. Excessive smoke would be pouring out the tail pipe then the truck would backfire through the air box a couple of times then you could hear the turbo spool up and it would belch a huge amount of black smoke out the tail pipe and run fine for a little bit and then start all over again. It would buck so hard I fully expected the bottom end to drop through the oil pan at any time. I tried my original pull over and shut the truck off procedure, but that had no effect on this problem. The truck runs fine when I'm not pulling. I've taken it to the dealer, and they told me they've got another truck in with the same symptoms, but so far I'm getting the impression that they're still scratching their heads a bit over this one. Any ideas?

 

[SixOhDriver]

I had the same bucking and jerking under load symptom. While thinking about it, I think it takes a few hours on the road to make this happen. My symptoms happened five hours into a ten hour stretch.

My guess was failed/failing injector since the truck was running fine unloaded. Tech asked "were you using cruise while pulling? There is a known issue about that which is fixed with new cal." I told him that I had the problem with and without cruise.

Bottom line is that I got the new calibration (last month) but I have not had a chance to pull since getting the truck back. It does run better -- smoother, better mpg and good power (almost like when I bought it). I'll let you know if the problem reappears.

 

[Super99]

in our 7.3 it would do the same theing but constant under no load and it was that the fuel we were burning was gas. somebody mixed the diesel with the gas.

 

[davenkc]

Here's the latest.
Ford had a service bulletin out for symptoms similar to mine that said to replace the EBP sensor. That didn't fix it. They spoke to a Ford engineer and he told them that they have been having some problems with the turbo impeller shafts seizing up and stalling the turbo. I took my truck back to them with my trailer. They hooked up to the computer while I towed and the mechanic said it looked like the boost pressure was way to low. Now they're thinking it's time to replace the turbo. They'll talk to the Ford engineer on Monday and confirm.

 

[smurf764]

We had a similiar thing last summer on our first pull of the season. The truck only had 18,000 miles on it. It was a turbo problem, only the turbo was putting out too much boost. I endened up getting the turbo replaced while on the road.

 

[rosenjas]

I have a 2005 6.0 PSD that bucks and backfires only when I lug the engine in overdrive while towing/hauling. Is this a similar problem?

Thanks.

 

[davenkc]

Mine would do it when I was just rolling down the highway on level ground at 65-70 mph.

 

[rosenjas]

Did you get it fixed? What was wrong?

 

[torino73]

Don't lug your engine. Keep the rpms up, and it won't do that.

 

[czardoz]

EGR vlave, EGR valve, EGR valve, EGR valve EGR valve EGR valve !!!!!! My truck is an '03 F250 6.0 and it started having the same problems bucking, backfiring and tons of black smoke. I took it to the stealership 5 times and they said that ford was working on a fix and I would have to wait for a reflash. Over several months,my truck got worse and I started talking to competent Diesel mechanics at large equipment dealers and getting tough with the stealership they finally replaced the EGR valve. Guess what it fixed the problem. The EGR valve when pulled from the engine was coked up and the valves would not seat and the plunger would seize.

 

[rosenjas]

My truck is an 05 6.0L; still the same valve?

 

[jetski86]

Hard kicking and back firing is most likely the turbo siezing. Is it leaving any codes? Yes the ebp could do this. they can put on the updated one it is a easy cheap fix and it should be done anyones.
It also could be the egr but that should show up even not loaded.
I have had the wire ends go bad on ebp but most should leave a code.
A momentary turbo failure may not set a code and cause a backfire.
and very hard kick or surge. Very hard like shutting the key on and off quickly.

 

[czardoz]

Possible but Ford ,also, has a reflash in the works for the 04 & 05 6.0. If your not getting a code it could be the EGR or the Soleniod that controls the boost on the turbo.

 

[davenkc]

I'll ask the dealer if they checked the EGR valve. When your EGR valve went south, did it affect your power? While towing my trailer out to the dealer, I climbed a grade that I normally pull at 70 mph in overdrive with 1/4 throttle. I had the pedal to the floor, the truck was downshifting gears as quick as it could and I still couldn't get over 65 mph.

 

[GeepinGeno]

FWIW mine was doing the same thing...EGR!
Good luck
Gene

 

[POS]

Mine used to do it, then I disconnected EGR valve. I'm sure it's unrelated /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif, but my surging hasn't happened since.

 

[corvair]

There is a bulletin out to replace the ebv,egr,and the wire harness. Also check the short blue hose the connects the intercooler hose comming from the lower pass. side next to the radiator to the turbo. There was NO bracing (it can move 3"-4") to keep the hose stable and it had a rip about 2" long which lost some boost and cause the egr cycling open/close and some good burps along the way. I replace the hose $53 and made a brace using a turbo clamp with a rubber cushion around the tube and a metal strap about 5 1/2" long using one of the bolts on top of the alternator to hold it stable. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif

 

[allamericanheat]

same thing happening to my6.0 thats deleted,????? turbo just rebuild !!