I had a similar issue to what you described.

My FICM was on its way out. Morning starts and Cold idling was rough. felt like it was missing on a cylinder or two but once it was warm it was fine for the rest of the day. Never got bad enough to not start but it was getting worse over time. Checking your FICM volts might be a place to start. Its a simple test that is easy and quick to do.

 

Thanks I will check this afternoon and report back.

 

Just ordered an Auto Enginuity with the Ford bundle from Riffraff Diesel. Ordered it on Friday, arrived on Monday. Let the testing begin.

 

I think you will enjoy your A&E it has a bit of a learning curve but the best way to lean it is play with it A LOT run all of its's tests even the stuff your not haveing a problem with, this way you get to recognize what is normal to see and ya can more easyly tell when something is abnomal. Search the web for sites and forums that have tips and ticks on its use. The offical sites help files and tips are a little sketchy.

Enjoy.

 

After my initial round of codes below I am in the process of charging the batteries to make sure they are at full capacity before more testing.

Generic Powertrain
No diagnostic codes retrieved

Anti-Lock Brake
No diagnostic codes retrieved

Airbag
B1869 Lamp Air Bag Warning Indicator Circuit Open

Hybrid Electronic Cluster
P1139 Water in Fuel Indicator Circuit
U1262 SCP (J1850) Communication Bus Fault

Park Aid
No diagnostic codes retrieved

Overhead Trip Computer 2
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor A
U2015 Signal Link Fault (Non SCP)

Enhanced Powertrain CAN
P0603 Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
P1000 OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete

Transmission Control CAN
No diagnostic codes retrieved

GEM/Central Timer
P1832 Transfer Case Differential Lock-Up Solenoid Circuit Failure
P1876 Transfer Case 2-Wheel Drive Solenoid Circuit Failure
B1318 Battery Voltage Low

 

Excursion running again, better than ever.

Ok all, after doing a lot more reading (on this forum) I decided to test the Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM). First I tried using the Auto Enginuity tool but the numbers were all over the place and it was my understanding from my research that the low number bottoms out at 40, which it did when cranking. Not being satisfied with the 40 reading I did a manual test on the FIMC and found with the key on, 47.5v, while cranking it dropped to 16v.

1. Sent FICM to Ed at ficmrepair.com for a rebuild and an Atlas 40 tune.
2. Ordered 185 Amp OEM High Output Alternator DC Power Engineering Inc. (local for me)
3. Ordered 2 new DieHard Platinum Automotive Battery - Group Size 65 from Sears to replace the 4 year old batteries.
4. Ordered "Blue Spring" upgrade (Motorcraft Part # 3C3Z-9T517-AG).

Installed the new Alternator, then the new batteries, then the rebuilt FICM unit. Cycled the key three times to make sure I was getting fuel. The engine fired up straight away with no hesitation whatsoever. Engine runs strong and smooth. On a trip to San Diego yesterday (about 2 hours one way) the trip computer was showing numbers in the low 20’s for MPG. Max MPG before was only ever 18 at the very highest.

Next week I plan to install the blue spring.

 

thats good to hear. i have heard nothing but good about Ed.