[Mdotson]

Hey guys, I just came across this site and figured I would post up and see if you could help me figure out what is wrong with my truck before I go throwing money at it and not fixing the problem.

1. If I don't let the truck warm up for about 15 to 20 minutes before driving it, the truck has zero power, if I tried to go over a highway overpass without warming the truck up, I would get stuck at the bottom.

2. When I am finally able to drive the truck it blows white/blue smoke.

3. When I really give it gas after it is all warmed up, it stutters, I don't know if this has something to do with the injectors or not.

4. When the truck is not warmed up and I drive it, the trans seems like it does not want to shift, I have to let off the gas and then get back in it so it will shift.

Any help would be great. I have replaced the EGR and have been reading a lot of threads on here that are making me think I should buy the MKM basic solution kit and that should take care of my problems, but would like some input before I do.

Thanks,
Mike

Forgot to mention the truck is about to roll over 200,000 miles. I have only had the truck since last June and it started doing this about a month after I got it.

 

[4five0]

Could be turbo issues. Do you have a way to check the boost from the turbo. Ford should be able to diagnose this easily.

Linc

 

[ex mounty]

So, this started last July and 11 months later your finally giving in to finding out whats wrong....Better late than never I suppose.

Are there any codes present?
Do you have a full set of gauges? (not the stock ones)
You need to know your fuel pressure, every second the truck is running. Extremely important to know this for the health of your fuel injectors. It MUST be above 45psi at all times. Less than that and your buying a new injector or two (maybe 8).
Next is fuel filters. Are they Motorcraft brand? Yes it matters. No, no other filter will work properly. Same goes for oil filters. Motorcraft only. Very long explanation for this, which, if you search on you tube, you will see videos as to why this is important.

You may have FICM (fuel injection control module) issues.
Here is how you can check your FICM for trouble. Do these steps in order. Don't assume anything. Check, verify, repair.
First, remove both batteries, run them down to an auto parts store that will load test them for you. Replace them if they fail that test.
Next is to ensure that those batteries are fully charged. Don't guess, charge them.
Next, get your multimeter ready and go to this LINK. Follow the directions to check your FICM.

 

[ex mounty]

If you suspect turbo control issues, heres a list of things to check/clean. They won't cost you anything but your time and a little carb cleaner.
MAP sensor. Check the rubber hose that comes off the intake manifold and goes towards the HVAC box on the passenger side of the truck. Remove the hose completely and check it for cracking/pinholes or splits. Replace as necessary. While you have that in your hand, take a good look at the brass nipple on the intake that the hose connected to. Get an allenwrench that is close to the same diameter as that hole in the nipple and stick it in there to knock any soot away from the hole.

You stated that you cleaned the egr valve, thats a good place to start.

Next is the EBP sensor. On the 04, I believe that this sensor is attached to the area of the thermostat housing. It is a sensor sitting on top of a stainless steel tube. That tube can be traced to the exhaust manifold on the drivers side. Carefully remove the sensor and stick a long piece of tiewire down the tube to make sure that it is open. Squirt some brake cleaner or carb cleaner down the tube. Brush off any debris on the sensor and reinstall it.
If you can not find that sensor near the thermostat housing, try looking on the drivers side of the truck, below the Degas bottle. It will be attached to a valve cover bolt/stud where the front FICM bracket is. Be careful and don't twist the tube. It shouldn't be that tight anyways.

 

[Mdotson]

So, this started last July and 11 months later your finally giving in to finding out whats wrong....Better late than never I suppose.

Are there any codes present?
Do you have a full set of gauges? (not the stock ones)
You need to know your fuel pressure, every second the truck is running. Extremely important to know this for the health of your fuel injectors. It MUST be above 45psi at all times. Less than that and your buying a new injector or two (maybe 8).
Next is fuel filters. Are they Motorcraft brand? Yes it matters. No, no other filter will work properly. Same goes for oil filters. Motorcraft only. Very long explanation for this, which, if you search on you tube, you will see videos as to why this is important.

You may have FICM (fuel injection control module) issues.
Here is how you can check your FICM for trouble. Do these steps in order. Don't assume anything. Check, verify, repair.
First, remove both batteries, run them down to an auto parts store that will load test them for you. Replace them if they fail that test.
Next is to ensure that those batteries are fully charged. Don't guess, charge them.
Next, get your multimeter ready and go to this LINK. Follow the directions to check your FICM.

No there are no codes.
Only gauges I have are the stock ones.

I did not have the available cash to fix the truck, I am just getting back on my feet after being laid off.

 

[ex mounty]

No there are no codes.
Only gauges I have are the stock ones.

I did not have the available cash to fix the truck, I am just getting back on my feet after being laid off.

It sounds as though you have some serious injector issues that, if ignored, will only make matters worse. If you have low fuel pressure, and you already lost one or two injectors, you could end up having to do 4 to 8 of them. They aren't cheap.
I hear you on the laid-off thing. Been scant little work for me for close to 3 years now, luckily I had a big parachute to catch my freefall and my wife has been working fairly steady. Squeaking by is about the best description I can give.
Theres a long post I wrote that can help you keep it alive, but will require some investment to accomplish. It is important, since a small investment can prevent HUGE repair costs. The link is in my signature line, "Basic info."

Lets at least address the weak fuel pressure fix for less than 50 bucks. Heres a great place for Ford parts cheaper than anywhere else. Tousley Ford. (800) 328-9552, call them and order part number 6E7Z-9C165-B. They may have to look it up, since it is not the "usual" fuel regulator upgrade kit, but it has everything you need. This part number is a small kit that will safely raise your fuel pressure to right around 70psi. Theres also a an awesome write-up on installing it right here on this forum, written by Band_Member. Heres a link to use when you get that. <CLICK ME>
Post back what your FICM check reveals.

 

[Mdotson]

Thank you for the help, I will be ordering that from tousley.

 

[Mdotson]

And I will be checking thw FICM voltage tomorrow and will post up what it is.

 

[Mdotson]

If a couple injectors do end up being bad, what is the best way to figure out which injectors are bad?

 

[ex mounty]

You would have to have the capability of reading the individual contribution parameters.
That would require AutoEngenuity scanner/software. Cost about $360 bucks and you use your laptop to monitor everything (you would need the "Ford Bundle SP03").
Someday when I have some extra cash, that is what I am buying...someday...

Or you have to go to someone that can do that for you. Probably spend at least 1/2 that just getting the scan done.

 

[Mdotson]

Ok I had the batteries load tested, they were good. I checked the ficm and when you turn the key on but dont start it, it was 47v, when started it was 47.6. so that means it is good right?

 

[ex mounty]

Yes. Above 46 volts is good.