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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was wondering what the best kit there is out there for bullet proofing my truck or would I be better off mix matching brands.
 

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All depends on what you are looking to do. We've never offered any kits, since most customers all have slightly different needs. Many of these trucks have already had other parts recently replaced, and budgets vary as well.

-Stick with OEM head gaskets. Many people here on the forum will tell you the same thing. The Fel Pros might be OK? I've heard more bad than good regarding some of the other brands.

-ARP studs can be purchased from hundreds of different places. Shop from someone who has a good price and reputation.

-By the OEM parts from us or one of the other Ford dealers here on the forum. It's cheaper by eliminating a middle man :)

Mike R
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
All depends on what you are looking to do. We've never offered any kits, since most customers all have slightly different needs. Many of these trucks have already had other parts recently replaced, and budgets vary as well.

-Stick with OEM head gaskets. Many people here on the forum will tell you the same thing. The Fel Pros might be OK? I've heard more bad than good regarding some of the other brands.

-ARP studs can be purchased from hundreds of different places. Shop from someone who has a good price and reputation.

-By the OEM parts from us or one of the other Ford dealers here on the forum. It's cheaper by eliminating a middle man :)

Mike R


Thanks Mike! I was told that I shouldn't need to go as far as doing head studs or gaskets since I don't haul heavy equipment or "race" my truck. The guy I spoke with said he recommends I do an EGR delete, upgraded oil cooler, blue spring kit and change my IPC valve and pig tail. He said the ipc because when I start my truck and the engine is cold it runs like hell. Almost as if it isn't firing on all cylinders until it gets heated up then it's just fine. I haven't done any work to engine nor have I had any problems. My truck has 133k miles on it.
 

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Thanks Mike! I was told that I shouldn't need to go as far as doing head studs or gaskets since I don't haul heavy equipment or "race" my truck. The guy I spoke with said he recommends I do an EGR delete, upgraded oil cooler, blue spring kit and change my IPC valve and pig tail. He said the ipc because when I start my truck and the engine is cold it runs like hell. Almost as if it isn't firing on all cylinders until it gets heated up then it's just fine. I haven't done any work to engine nor have I had any problems. My truck has 133k miles on it.

Icp valve. I would look into the idle issue. Plan for studs it's not a must have but a really smart move if you plan on keeping the truck.


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All 6.0s will lose a HG at some point, and there's no predicting when. The whole idea of bulletproofing is to make the truck reliable. You can't have a major failure point still present and claim reliability. So its a dice roll towing, racing, or not. I've seen them go 200+k for guys with a heavy foot who towed equipment with it daily. I've seen them last 40k for guys who never load the truck, no tuning, and drive easy. For me, when there is a doubt; there is not doubt.

I would find no need to buy an all inclusive kit, from what I've seen they tend to not save you anything over piecing it together yourself.

If nothing's been addressed you will need to following:

ARP studs, OEM HGs, injector ring kits, rocker carrier gaskets, valve cover gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, intake manifold gasket kit (w/turbo hardware & EGR hose), RH & LH GP harnesses, updated turbo oil feed tube, updated turbo drain tube, hot side CAC boots, OC kit, ERG delete or bulletproof cooler, upgraded y-pipe if you do an EGR delete, and a coolant filter kit.

Beyond that its a good time to send the FICM to FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts and get it upgraded and tuned with the Atlas 40 tune for improved throttle response and reduced turbo lag. You could also consider replacing the water pump, as its easy while you're doing the rest. I really like my BPD WP. Getting close to 150k its time to start thinking about injectors which have a typical lifespan of 150-200k. EBPS is another thing to consider replacing, as is the HPOP if its an early style pump (aluminum) as they don't have a good reputation. The Dieselsite has a good upgrade for the pump.

Its all about what you can afford now and doing as much as you can to prevent issues in the future.
 

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Lots of good advice! By "bulletproofing", I assumed you meant head gaskets. Personally, I wouldn't do head gaskets until later, but that's just my opinion. It can be a very costly job if you are paying someone to do the labor. However, as @TKOPerformance mentioned, the head gaskets will eventually fail at some time on a 6.0. You also then risk damaging the heads if they do leak & the issue is not addressed asap.

Many people will tell you to buy an Edge insight or something similar to monitor the engine's vitals. That would be a good place to start :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks to all of you for the advice. I really appreciate it. I think I'll just go ahead and take it all the way to doing the studs and head gasket since it'll be apart anyhow instead of having to go in twice.
 

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Its very important for success that while the heads are off you take them to a machine shop and have them checked for cracks and flatness. 6.0 heads have a tendency to crack between the exhaust valve seats and through the injector bores in particular. They need to be thoroughly Magnaflux inspected.

The fire deck also needs to be checked for flatness, and almost certainly milled flat. 6.0 heads need to be dead flat; there's no tolerance. The critical dimension though is that you must maintain 3.740" from the valve cover rail to the fire deck, which typically equates to milling at most 0.008" off a head. If this dimension cannot be maintained the head is junk, even if its not cracked. Further milling risks running a valve into a piston and that'll be about all she wrote.

Another thing to consider is that there have been new pushrods issued for the 6.0 that are a slightly different length. It is recommended that they be used whenever doing a HG job because the 6.0 has been known to kill one of the lifters, which can lead to destroying the engine. Now, this is by no means a common problem, but it has happened. I simply reused my stock length pushrods and have had no issues in over 55k miles, but there have been a few guys not so lucky, and if I had it to do over again I would have used the new pushrods. The knowledge wasn't really out there 3 years back when I did mine, which is why I didn't know to do it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Aside from the bullet proofing, I've started having this problem when I first start my truck. It runs really hard and almost sounds like it's miss firing at times. Once it gets warmed up thought it's just fine. It does this even when the temperature outside is in the 80's. Can anyone point me in the direction to fixing this? I was thinking it was gummed up injectors or problems with my FICM
 

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Sounds like stiction to me.

A thinner oil usually fixes it. 10w-30 diesel oil or 5w-40 synthetic.

Sometimes an additive like archoil or revx is needed as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sounds like stiction to me.

A thinner oil usually fixes it. 10w-30 diesel oil or 5w-40 synthetic.

Sometimes an additive like archoil or revx is needed as well.


I did just change my oil and put in 15w 40 and it had only started doing this after I changed it. Should I change it to a thinner oil now and if so should I change the filter again? It's only been a month since I've done it.
 

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Given the cost of oil if you can live with it for now I'd just change to a lighter weight at the next interval. Personally I would use Rotella 5W40 T6 synthetic. If you want to try an additive I would use the Archoil because of their money back guarantee specific to the 6.0.
 

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On the subject of bulletproofing, I have read many, many forum discussions on what to do for bulletproofing.

Some say, all you need is EGR delete, others say replace EGR and oil coolers, even others say you have to go the complete route, do everything including head bolts.

What criteria should I follow to help me decide?

Thanks,
 

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I would definitely do the head bolts I didn't tow or race my 06 6.0 and the HG went on me it was an expensive job they added the BPD EGR cooler, OEM oil cooler, ARP studs, split and cleaned the turbo. I wish while they were in there I would of had the injectors done, I had 1 injector go out a month after all the major work, only replace the bad one. I went on a 1000 mi trip and had to go back and have 6 more injectors done, one was the new one which failed. They recommended all 8 as they believed the others would go out after trying to cover the rest. I spent $800 the first time and $2850 the second time. The bulletproofing cost $7700. I got my SCT Livewire TS to monitor temps and add a little power. I am super happy with my power, but the one thing I have learned with this diesel is that there are no cheap shortcuts. If you plan to keep the truck and want to maintain reliability bulletproof it and do the studs. The Livewire TS you can turn the EGR off electronically and not have to worry about bypassing. There are a lot of people on this forum who have a lot of good info and knowledge, that's how I decided to go through my truck. Either way you decide, GOOD LUCK!!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The Livewire TS you can turn the EGR off electronically and not have to worry about bypassing. /QUOTE]



This is good info. I didn't know that you could do that. Now that I know that I'm going to get an upgraded egr cooler instead of a delete incase I ever end up having to do an emissions check.
 

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Except its not true. You can deactivate the valve, but coolant is still flowing through the EGR cooler. If the cooler fails, which is the big concern, it still dumps coolant into the intake, which then goes into the engine, and bad stuff happens. That's why you delete the cooler. Not having to worry about the valve may spare you some bad running if the valve were ever to stick, but that's not the real concern with the EGR system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
What is it that causes the cooler to fail? Wouldn't it be less likely to fail if there wasn't anything there for it to have to cool?
 

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What is it that causes the cooler to fail? Wouldn't it be less likely to fail if there wasn't anything there for it to have to cool?

A plugged oil cooler causes that to fail even further up the snowball is the Ford Gold Coolant crap


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What causes the cooler to get plugged? Is it the coolant that gums up or is it from the exhaust?

Coolant gums up because of the egt heat the sicilates in the coolant cause it to gum up because of the heat. That's why I recommend using ELC coolant and a coolant filtration . If oc plugged u can starve egr causing flash boil of coolant there already rupture the egr cooler and that steam excess causes pressure that blows the degas bottle cap pukes coolant and will blow ur gaskets. If u wait too long it will mess ur heads up too, and then will need to be machined or get new ones. Been there done that and not fun not cheap pal


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