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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I posted back in December and my truck is still not running.basicaly I was driving along and pulled to a stop sign and it just died.it cranked over but would not start.took it to a friends shop and he ran the codes and showed cam and crank sensors,so he changed them out with after Market ones from his parts house.also replace ficm with one from diesel tech Ron. when you try to turn it over it sounds like it has to much advance and grinds the starter.i went thru with a scanner and seemed all numbers were good.except I would get a crank and cam sync would go back and forth with yes then no sync and ficm would do the same.if I disconnect the icp it will turn over and run,roughly and ends up stalling.also if I disconnect the ficm relay the truck will turn over no problem.this is as far as I got and ended up sending to a local shop.
Took him along time to get to it but about a week ago he called and told me I needed a new starter.i listen to him and bought a new starter which I now I didn't need as I told him to pull ficm relay and it would crank over which he confirmed it did while we were on phone.said he went thru everything and can't figure it out.said he did a compression check and I had 300 psi in a few holes and 400 in others.but couldn't test the rear holes because he couldn't get to them.therefore I need a new motor.im at a complete loss as for one I can't afford a new motor and two it ran fine no noises or anything. Could this be a injector issue pumping to much fuel into cylinders as it cranks fine when ficm relay is out.
Any help would be appreciated as I don't know what to tell this guy,or should I spend more money and a second opinion.
 

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It is possible that an injector has lost a tip. If that's the case though, and its loading up on fuel the oil should stink of fuel.

Another possibility is that its coolant. Have you noticed nay coolant loss? White smoke on start up and continuing as the truck warms up?
 

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Where are you located? Does ca stand for California or Canada? You might be close to a shop that specializes in Ford 6.0's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It is possible that an injector has lost a tip. If that's the case though, and its loading up on fuel the oil should stink of fuel.

Another possibility is that its coolant. Have you noticed nay coolant loss? White smoke on start up and continuing as the truck warms up?
No no white smoke.no coolant loss.it has been studded already.

Where are you located? Does ca stand for California or Canada? You might be close to a shop that specializes in Ford 6.0's.
Ca
It's at a diesel shop now but I feel I need a second opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Could the crank and cam sync,and ficm sync cause these issue?the aftermarket ones have me a bit worried.
 

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If its not loosing coolant than the HGs should be good, but though considerably less common 6.0s have still blown HGs even with studs, so I have to ask.

I would tend to believe this issue is electrical from rereading your original post. The cam and crank sensors being aftermarket would concern me, I would always use OEM parts for this kind of stuff, but you are losing FICM sync too, so I would not look at the sensors as a cause first. If I'm reading it correctly the sensors were changed and there was no improvement in the situation, which to me would also help to rule them out. I think the next step is not going to be fun, but you need to take a good hard look at the wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yea think I might have it pulled outta that small diesel place it's at.i can't afford a new motor.not even sure if he did the compression check right.if I remember right when it just died on me it would crank over.then my friend put in those aftermarket sensors.is there a way to test to see if there working properly. Ounce it gets to my friends shop I'll have acces to a nice snap on scanner. Don't remember wich one but I know it was like $12-13k
 

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When a 6.0L runs poorly, misfires and stalls and has a tough time starting - and in this case, it cranks like it has resistance (likely due to latent fuel in one or more cylinders) it WILL set cam and crankshaft sensor codes together. The misfiring causes erratic voltages and set circuit codes for both sensors. I would have dismissed the sensor codes from the beginning if the PCM passed a KOEO self test.

Just guessing from what you have been describing, you may have an injector stuck open or a leak from an injector which will cause all of your symptoms and can cause a hydrolock condition if the ignition is cycled enough times to allow the fuel pump to charge the fuel rail. A cracked or broken injector tip will surely cause a hydro lock among other damage. To quickly check for this condition to confirm or eliminate it, first, verify that you have fuel pressure at the secondary fuel filter test port (engine mounted filter). If you have fuel, remove the filter, fill the housing with fuel above the stand pipe and then crank the engine over by applying power to the starter circuit wire at the right rear of the engine compartment. It is a single yellow wire with a blue tracer with an in-line connector. If you see bubbles, there is a leak that is allowing combustion gasses to enter the fuel rail which could be caused by a faulty injector or a loose injector, burned copper combustion seal. If you just pull the FICM relay the PCM will turn the fuel pump on to charge the system if you use the ignition... and cause fuel to flow out of the open fuel filter housing.

See this article, scroll down to the video showing what you will see if the test fails ---> Compression Bubble Test - DTS Articles - Articles - Articles - DTS
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
One other thing I notice as well is when I cycle the key on I heard a strange clicking under the dash,it's never done that.and the cruise control light flickers on and off.
 
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