[lakebound4ever]

Have any of you installed the 10-15$ AIC as written up in the articles section? I picked up all the required items, as described, assembled, installed and am currently testing it trying to set the RPM level without grenadin the PS. No joy.. Im sure ive just missed a simple step here but, I have to adjust both R1 & R2 POT to 0 ohms or she tach's way the F up there!

If I set R1 halfway, R2 to 0 ohms start it, flip the DPST it hammers the throttle.

If I set R1 0 ohms, R2 0 ohms start it flip the switch it works so so, only allowing me to bring the RPM down to 1300 and the POT's are very touchy. Did I grab crappy potentiometers that provide spikes in the resistance when they are gently rotated?

Not pointing a finger at the feller who wrote it, as Im sure Ive fudged somethin up. Also when the engine is running and I flip the DPST switch I(sometimes)get a check engine light!

WTH?.......... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[MOUNTAINMAN444]

I tried it and never could get the rpms to suit me. I wound up buying 4 different pots of varying resistance and experimenting with them until I found the one I liked. I also got a lot of help from the man at Radio Shack. I also never leave the Pot turned up and then flip the switch. The rpms seem to go where they want to. I flip the switch on and then turn the pot up to where I want it. I'm running on one pot not two. If you need more help just let me know and I'll try BUT I'm a hacker not an electronics guru.
Joe

 

[lakebound4ever]

Thanks, not a guru either! Know enough to get me in trouble! I am gonna pick some other POT's up today and experiment with them, see if I can get this thing figured out. I was noticing that when I have these 2 POT's on the bench and connected to my multimeter,when rotated I see variable resistance spkies through out the rotation. These are the radio shack POT's.....

Did you install the LED? Where does that 680 Ohm resistor go? Dosn't say in the instructions........

Thx Bub.......

 

[MOUNTAINMAN444]

Yes I installed the light. I is just wired into the switch to come on when the switch is on. The resistor(s) go before the pot. You can experiment with resistors before the pot to make less juice go to the pot instead of using a larger pot. At one time I had 10 resistors installed in series and parallel at the same time to lower the amount before the pot (10k I think). It worked but was very messy so I went and bought larger pots to try.
Joe

 

[lakebound4ever]

Roger....& thx for the info, will keep ya posted.

 

[cjhofer]

I had the same problem as you. Idle would go way up one time and the next I couldn't get it to move. Then it would creep up and pretty soon she'd be running wide open again. I tried different pots and couldn't get it to work decent. I ended up taking it off and installing a dp tuner with the high idle.
This is on an '01 psd /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

 

[BroncoGlenn]

Try the old school hand throttle method. Get a bicycle shifter lever and cable. Connect the inner cable to your pedal assembly so that adjusting the gear shifter will have the effect of pressing and releasing the throttle. Mount the gear shift portion someplace like the manual tranny or transfer case lever.

 

[MOUNTAINMAN444]

A stick between the pedal and the seat would be easier than running a cable, I think.
Joe

 

[lakebound4ever]

Nice........I like the stick idea! Much better now thanks to some experimenting. When I bought the first POT's I grabbed SINGLE turn 5k's and not a 10 or 12 turn. Seems she likes the 10 turn 15k Ohm POT, much more linear curve with 0% overshoot. I am ASSuming that with a one turn POT any little movement, vibration, or bump of the POT shaft and the resistance values change dramatically due to the limited amount of physical movement vs the amount of resistance the POT has to change from 0 to 5k Ohm in one revolution of the shaft. Thats my 2 cents from a dumb ole country boy..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

While I am here asking yall,can you manually control the torque converter lock-up via a switch in the cab etc?...or does someone already make a kit or something close to this? Maybe I dont really need to have this functionality! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif

 

[Rich_Kimball]

I followed the instructions and got it to work, but sometimes mine would hit WOT too. Flipping the switch off and then back on would help...sometimes. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
The other thing that annoyed me was that when it WAS working and set, idling while using the A/C and having the compressor kick on and off the RPM would change up and down. I didn't care for that. I finally bought a Ford AIC from eBay and would never look back now that I have it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif

 

[knapp]

I used the stick method and it worked fine to idle up for the aircompressor.
Then saw the electronic unit and thought this is for me.
The unit took a lot of tuning and then went out to lunch. Probably a broke wire.
Back to the K.I.S.S stick method. [KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID]
I did have the engine light come on during the set up. Cant remember what sequence caused it but it scarred me. Turned everything of and it came good again.
When time and inclination is available I may go back in and see why it is not functioning.
Regards
Ron