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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took my 1989 F250 California to New York in May. Just returned, but today the engine died suddenly in Nevada at 70 mph. The forums for the 99s and up from a few years back suggest the CPS or fuse 30. Would this be valid for my 1989 as well ?

I love this truck. I got 20 mph on $2.50 diesel all summer out on the interstates. On the return to California, I had more problems than usual. This is the third time I've taken the truck round trip cross country. America is awesome. Anyway, I carried a spare alternator, water pump and starter this time. Needed the alternator in Indiana. The Motorcraft alternator I had in it lost the three bolts holding the stator and shorted out blowing the fusible link. Made it through that breakdown easily by using my spare. The engine died suddenly on I-80 at 70 mph this morning in Nevada and I brought the truck down the hill to California on a UHaul trailer. Nice adventure, however..........

I am headed back across in October, if it is the CPS or fuse 30, which I will add to my spare parts kit I carry.

Any other spare parts you guys would suggest I add to the kit besides what I have mentioned ?
 

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Welcome to the Diesel Stop.
A 1989 Truck will have an IDI engine and will not have a CPS.

The reference to fuse 30 is also not for an IDI. It is the fuse that allows the PCM to power up, and blows when the fuel heater in the bowl goes bad, IDI doesn't have a PCM.

What were the symptoms when it shut down? Fuel levels, engine temp, did you try restart and if so what happened?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
70 mph abrupt shutdown symptoms

Fuel was on front tank which was half full confirmed by mileage and gauge. I fill both tanks to the top of the fill spigot via visual while filling and switch between front and rear tanks every 100 miles. I refill both every 200 hundred. I reset the trip odometer at each fill. It matches up with taking a break every three hours or so out on the interstates. I am pretty routine about this. I can run about 350 miles on both tanks if needed, but then both tank gauges are on E. Anyway, I started the truck at 4:00 am in Mill City, Nevada. It started on the second crank just like usual. I had run from Denver on Saturday (the day prior). The mileage was at 75 miles on the odometer. I was at normal gauge positions while running down the road at 70 - 75 mph. Probably was pushing closer to 75 mph on the cruise control. The temp gauge normally hits just at the C line, the voltmeter normally sits on the 12 line, and the oil pressure gauge normally sits on the "o" of normal. I glance at the gauges routinely, but only as a course of something catching my eye. I was outside of Lovelock Nevada at speed cruising along and then complete immediate shutdown. Switched tranny to N, and tried to restart as I coasted to the shoulder. Switched fuel tanks, just kept cranking with no start.

Got to the shoulder. Tried to restart on each tank. No go. Opened up the fuel line that feeds the fuel filter under the hood and cranked and got a large spew of fuel, so it was getting to the fuel filter inlet. Opened up one of the injector fuel line thinking that I needed to see fuel there as well, cranked and got a little wet but looked like it was from the injector side of the connection, and not the fuel line side.

Got on line and saw the posts about the CPS and figured that was the problem. Called the tow truck. Put the truck on a UHaul truck/trailer combo and pulled it home to California. Now trying to figure out how to fix it.

The "engine" light had come on in Iowa the week prior, but I thought I solved that by adding antifreeze/cooling fluid to the reservior since it was lower than normal. The book said the idiot light was for low oil pressure or high temperature, so I figured maybe the cooling system level was low. After I added the antifreeze, the engine light had not come on again from Iowa to Nevada, and did not come on prior to the abrupt shutdown. Maybe I missed something and the engine light was not solved by the addition of the antifreeze.

Thanks for letting me know the IDI does not have CPS. However, now I am looking for other ideas on what to check.
 

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At cranking rpm you won't see much fuel at the injectors. How full is the fuel filter?
On the top of the injector pump there are three electrical connections. Look for the front one on the drivers side. That is for the fuel shutoff solenoid.

With the key in the run position, remove that wire. You should hear a click, and if you don't then either the solenoid has failed or you lost power.
 

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I would sure check out the connector that's on the pass side that goes over the valve cover, the current that the glow plugs takes usually just about destructs that connector.

A cheap little $10 volt meter (VOM) is your best friend on a trip.

Check for 12 volts on the IP FSS, (Fuel Shut OFF Solenoid).

Check for 12 volts on the key switch on the steering column, Red wire. It's been known that the switch can come loose and loose all power.

If you could crank it, I would just about bet the IP lost power. A jumper from battery + to the FSS might have got you home. You only need fuel and air on a IDI.
 
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