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Discussion Starter #1
My old f350 has a problem that


My 1989 F 350 Clutch pedal hangs if you depress it and hold it down for any length of time. It loses clutch and results in not being able to throw out of gear. Sometime I have to turn truck off at ignition to disengage Gears. Recently had Booster and Master Cylinder replaced not over 3 months ago and truck hasnt been driven 100 miles since that time. All ideas appreciated!
 

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You are talking the BRAKE booster and master were replaced?

If the clutch works if you are quick with shifting it's likely a hydraulic control failure. First check the fluid level and inspect for leaks from the master to the slave cylinder on the transmission. Inspect the pushrod and the release lever going into the clutch housing. Do you ever have to manually pull the clutch pedal back up?
 

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Clutch master cylinder is bypassing internally, your gonna have to replace it, the seals are shot

What type of fluid was put in the reservoir?
 

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Master cylinder and slave cylinder come separately, and already hooked together, and pre-bled. Already hooked together is the easiest way to replace them. If one is gone the other won't be far behind, so it's a good idea to replace both.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You are talking the BRAKE booster and master were replaced?

If the clutch works if you are quick with shifting it's likely a hydraulic control failure. First check the fluid level and inspect for leaks from the master to the slave cylinder on the transmission. Inspect the pushrod and the release lever going into the clutch housing. Do you ever have to manually pull the clutch pedal back up?
yes, I have to sometimes manually pull the clutch pedal back up?
 

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I also recommend replacing the hydraulic master and slave as a pre-assembled , bre-bled unit as oldrebuiltdodge mentioned.
 

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He said it's an '89 but I don't remember if the 5 speed was offered about then or not. If so, there is a problem of the T.O. bearing collar hanging up on the trans input shaft bearing retainer sleeve that the collar slides back and forth on due to accumulated crud. I bought my '91 new and every so many years I have had to manage to squirt some oil on the sleeve to eliminate the binding. Ford came out with a TSB years ago stating there was a new style T.O. bearing collar with a wiper on it to eliminate the problem.
 

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'89 had a 5 speed. If there is air in the system, it will also need to be pulled back, because the pressure plate isn't released.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
He said it's an '89 but I don't remember if the 5 speed was offered about then or not. If so, there is a problem of the T.O. bearing collar hanging up on the trans input shaft bearing retainer sleeve that the collar slides back and forth on due to accumulated crud. I bought my '91 new and every so many years I have had to manage to squirt some oil on the sleeve to eliminate the binding. Ford came out with a TSB years ago stating there was a new style T.O. bearing collar with a wiper on it to eliminate the problem.
First, Thank all for helping. yall got no idea how much i value and rely on the opinions here. One day I am going to learn to add pics to my post! That being said About a year or so ago I replaced the slave cylinder. Since then a few weeks ago the master and Booster were replaced. I have felt that LMJD post is The Problem. If yall would be so kind as to tell me how to lube or oil the throw out bearing? I vaguely remember a post about an oil can with an extension going up into the slave cylinder opening? I am not sure but any info or help in that matter would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Oiling the extension tube the throw-out bearing slides on may help if there is a gunk buildup -- but randomly squirting oil in the housing may get oil on the clutch -- possibly a snake cam would help to get the oil in the "right place" -- a non-detergent oil like chainsaw bar oil would be my choice -- Tractor Supply has a good oil for saws
 

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Remote 95, I was afraid you'd ask that :), I was the one who posted that process years ago. This sounds like a Mickey Mouse fix but it works and is a heck of a lot easier than pulling the trans and transfer case. After removing the slave, boot, and T.O. fork, I move the collar with a long screwdriver as far as it will go to expose the sleeve the collar slides back and forth on. Then with a piece of vacuum hose slid on the end of the oil squirt can, I snake it though the bell housing hole right over the sleeve and dribble a little engine oil on the sleeve. Then I slide the collar all the way the other direction and oil that side of the sleeve. The access hole is so small and it's about impossible to see in there so I took a tailight bulb and socket, hooked it to some long wires, connected one to the battery and I drop it in the bell housing hole first so I can see what I'm doing. It lights up that whole area. When I was putting about 15,000 miles per year on my '91, I'd have to do this about every 4 years and it made a HUGE difference in pedal effort afterwards. If you give this a try, you'll probably be cussing me because the job is a pain in the butt, especially for the first time, but it's still better than pulling the trans and all.
On Edit: Bear in mind, you oil the sleeve (retainer) not the T.O. bearing. Like this pic:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I cannot thank yall enough for the info that yall provide. All my equipment and trucks are Dinasour stuff and I use it only ocasionally. Its to the point that They are so few mechanics around with the experience or knowledge to turn to or ask. Without yalls help I would have to let this stuff go and I cant go the new or later model route. Again, heartfelt thanks!
 
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