[bdoss123]

I posted before about the 1994 IDI. Now that I am sure I want a 93 or 94, I have found several with mileage varying from 130's up to 170's. My question is this:
The most appealing lower mileage truck is at a dealer that doesn't know anything about the history of the truck. He says it runs and shifts well "for a 94 model".
I have found two with slightly more mileage (163, and 169k) that have service records for the past several years. Both vehicles have had ujoints, injectors, turbo, and some seals replaced. Is it better to know with higher mileage or to not know and shoot for a lower mileage truck?

Thanks,
BD

 

[icanfixall]

Any of those trucks with that low of mileage will basically be the same truck. So pick the truck you like the looks on and feel good about it. Don't trust a dealer selling a used truck telling you "I don't know much about this truck". He knows plenty and maybe that one is something you should walk away from because he wont "tell" you about it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif

 

[LMJD]

I can understand the dealer saying he knows nothing about the truck. Personally, I'm big on preventative maintanance. My truck is basically in perfect mechanical shape from bumper to bumper, but if I traded it in, I wouldn't expect the dealer to have a clue about that, although I have my maintanance book on everything I've done to it since new. (I'm not bragging, just too poor to want to buy a new one and I'm NOT into breakdowns alongside the road /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif) A good rule of thumb is if there's not a body panel that's not dented, maybe one is primered, it has rusted, banged up bumpers, that pretty much says how the owner took care of it mechanically too. However if the paint still looks really nice, decent chrome, etc, the owner was probably picky about maintaining it mechanically also. There was one on here for sale some years back and the owner was bragging about all the work he'd done on it but if you happened to click on his sig. pics he proudly displayed several showing the truck actually submerged in a muddy pond with water right up to the door handles, inside handles too. Not to be overly picky, but that would be one I'd pass on. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif

 

[9ENGEL]

If the dealer is not trying to hide anything, they should give you the previous owners name at least. I'd try to contact them and ask about the truck if your really interested.

 

[bdoss123]

That's a good idea, I hadn't thought about asking the dealer for the previous owner's name. The pictures of the truck look good, but do not show engine or undercarriage.

I wish there were more of these things for sale locally. Seems like there's plenty of powerstrokes but very few 93-94 IDI w/ factory turbo.

What do you guys think about this truck:

1993 , 164k, 4WD, 5SPD, no air, new
turbo, clutch, hubs, u joints, stater, tires, seal in front axle,
batteries and paint.

[image]http://images.craigslist.org/01010801020501030120070601f672ccb5864704e1e6005d32.jpg[/image]

Versus this one:

This is the one from the dealer


Thanks for all the help so far, this site is great.

- BD

 

[mfsco001]

I am currently rebuilding a 1989 7.3 idi for a 94 f 250 just a warning FORD did their own machining on this block and the #4and #8 cylinders have been known to get pin holes in them from the water jackets ours had about 330k on it before we had any problems with it and the crank,heads, and other parts wont work from earlier models that is in 93 and 94 only you are better off buying a 91 or 92 and having the banks turbo installed on it if you want the turbo diesel

 

[icanfixall]

Shadetree... You are mistaken about parts swapping from early to late year motors. The crank is the same item for all 6.9 thru the turbo and non turbo 7.3 IDI motors. The rods in the turbo motor have larger pins but thats about it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif

 

[Greg77]

Re: 1994 IDI - What's better 130-140k unknown maintenance, 170k w/ maintenance records

The 5 speed probably will give you less trouble than the E4oD, and better mileage too. Check the gear ratio's and unless you are going to be doing a lot of pulling try to find a 3:55 over a 4:11. If you buy privately you should be able to get at the same truck at least $1500,00 cheaper than the same truck at a dealer. The dealer isn't going to put any warranty on a 10 year old truck anyway so why pay more unless it's something you really want. On 30,000 miles there probably isn't really going to be that much difference in trucks if they have been taken care of as both look like they have been.

 

[LMJD]

[ QUOTE ]
The rods in the turbo motor have larger pins but thats about it.


[/ QUOTE ]
No, there is about 11-13 internal differences in the factory turbo engines, Keystone rings, etc. I saw the list direct from a Ford rep years back when I picked up my ATS kit.

 

[mfsco001]

what about the #4 and #8 cylinders getting rust pin holes in them from the cooling system have you heard this before?

 

[LMJD]

That would be cylinder wall erosion, or cavitation, and it's not just confined to #4 and #8. Using a suplemental coolant additive will prevent it.