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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I bought a 97 F-350 CC 4x4 Manual 2 years ago and it's been my daily driver ever since, I've learned alot over the past two years...

I bought a 1995 F-350 CC 2WD DRW a month ago, my first automatic. I have read alot of posts about E4OD issues. The trans operates okay, but not like any other automatic I've ever driven. This is not unexpected based on what I've read here. If I really push the peddle the shifts are really solid, but anything less than really pushing it, shifting is really erratic and unpredictable, and just plain sucks.

What steps should I take to make things better?

Thanks,

Jim
 

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I bought my truck with a Banks Trans-Command shift kit already installed. I'm pleased with the way it performs. Always solid shifts...no sliding into gear, but not harsh, neck snapping. Throttle position sensitive would describe it.
 

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Unfortunately thats the way they are. It drives me nuts too . I have a transgo shift kit which I will be installing when it warms up a little. I don't tow so I don't need a tugger kit. I already have the Alumiinium Pan and the big cooler. I leave the OD off always and only engauge it after 80 km/hr or Highway driving. The Trans Command Module is very good . Racer X has a product called the CURE which also works well .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Does anyone know if a DP Tuner would help? I seem to remember hearing somewhere that the DP Tuner does make a diference with an auto trans. I installed one on my 97 and love it, but it's a 5 Speed.

Thanks,
 

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To fix the E40D slush box you can drill three 1/16" holes in the accumulator valve body. It will firm up the shifts nicely. I did this to my truck and I'm really pleased with the results. Take a look at this photo. shift kit secrets pictures from friends & fun photos on webshots When I got my truck it came with a Banks Transcommand. I yanked that piece of junk off there immediately. Fix the problem, don't band aid it with things like Transcommands etc. Unless you are completely rebuilding the transmission to be bullet proof I would stay away from anything that just raises the line pressure. A chip can help with shift points and torq converter lockup. I like what my TW chip does for shifting and locking the torq converter.
 

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To fix the E40D slush box you can drill three 1/8" holes in the accumulator valve body. It will firm up the shifts nicely. I did this to my truck and I'm really pleased with the results. Take a look at this photo. shift kit secrets pictures from friends & fun photos on webshots When I got my truck it came with a Banks Transcommand. I yanked that piece of junk off there immediately. Fix the problem, don't band aid it with things like Transcommands etc. Unless you are completely rebuilding the transmission to be bullet proof I would stay away from anything that just raises the line pressure. A chip can help with shift points and torq converter lockup. I like what my TW chip does for shifting and locking the torq converter.
When I got my Chevy truck someone had done one of those homeade drill your accumulator valve body tricks. It damn near shook the dashboard out of the truck EVERY shift. I had to replace the valve body.
 

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When I got my Chevy truck someone had done one of those homeade drill your accumulator valve body tricks. It damn near shook the dashboard out of the truck EVERY shift. I had to replace the valve body.

Yes, I probably should have stated that the shift firmness is dependent on the hole size. You wouldn't think it would make much difference but it does. Get the hole bigger than 1/16" and it'll feel like your gonna snap your neck. A nice sharp bit helps. It is important that you don't egg out the hole while drilling unless of course you want break neck shift. I stand by this mod if done right. If I get another truck I'd do the mod again. Basically what this mod does is it works on the same principle as the bullydog shift kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys,

I'll check that out.
 

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Yes, I probably should have stated that the shift firmness is dependent on the hole size. You wouldn't think it would make much difference but it does. Get the hole bigger than 1/16" and it'll feel like your gonna snap your neck. A nice sharp bit helps. It is important that you don't egg out the hole while drilling unless of course you want break neck shift. I stand by this mod if done right. If I get another truck I'd do the mod again. Basically what this mod does is it works on the same principle as the bullydog shift kit.
What he says. I would stay away from the line pressure only stuff. These trannies have enough trouble popping snap rings and such, more pressure equals more problems. Drilling the valve body lets oil in and out of the clutches faster, no more slushy shifts. Like he said, moderation. But remember if its slipping its tearing up clutches bit by bit, and slushy shifts are slippy shifts.
 
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