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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I have quite the issue at hand ladies and gentleman. First off let me start by saying thank you to anyone who can offer some advice. The vehicle is a 1996 f-250 7.3 psd. 338k miles. Engine work completed is as follows, 8 RAE injectors, 8 beru glowplugs, motorcraft GPR, 2 new valve cover harness, water pump, motorcraft cps, motorcraft ipr, alternator, tensioner and all idler pulleys, fan clutch, all hoses, vacuum pump, all new orings and rubber hoses on fuel brown, new turbo Chra(orIngs and gaskets), blower and all fuses changed to kind the light when they pop. So here's my dilemma. I recently had to have the drivers side head pulled, I guess when I was changing my fuel bowl fittings, I dropped a tiny little hose clamp down the intake. Yeah I know. Anyway, it worked itself to the rear (#8cyl) intake valve and wedged it open and the piston made contact. Bent the valve and pushrod. Because I was busy with work and had the cash, I had a trusted diesel shop perform the work. Head was removed, new valve, spring, keeper, rocker and pushrod installed along with new head gasket and head bolts. I went by and inspected the piston that made contact and myself and the mechanic both agreed that it wasn't bad AT ALL. A few circles on the piston face and a little indent where the hose clamp screw imprinted on it. So he put everything back together, identified that the cylinder closest to the radiator on drivers side was like halfway dead so he popped in a new injector from NAPA, fixed it. I fully services everything out while he was buttoning up the motor. Fuel, oil and coolant. So we get squared up ($3000 cash), I fire it up, takes a couple cranks but pops right off. Let her sit there and idle, look the motor over, chat a bit, than I take off. I decide to take it for a test run. Motor is fully at operating temp, hit the highway and cruise for about 80 miles, runs perfect. Stop to fill up with diesel, shut it off, go to start again, hydro locked. Pull the dip stick, cream colored oil. Coolant res empty with and oil slime on the bottom. So I have it towed to a friend close by, he has a heated garage, tear into it. Pull the valve cover off and it's just coated in this disgusting white pudding. Both sides are. Intake tube to turbo is stuffed as well. Drop the oil, no raw coolant comes out but oil is cream/brown. Add about a gallon of 50/50 to res and its full so it wasn't that low. Pull all GP's, bump the motor over a few times and nothing comes out. No huge spray or anything. So I cleaned everything up, put it all back together, topped off with cheap 15/40 and a new filter, fire it up, cracks right off. Huge horrible smelling haze out exhaust. Turn high idle to 1500 and let her run for an hour. Drop oil and refill, new filter. Go to hit the key, hydro locked. Coolant level had NOT gone down and truck was at operating temp. Turn the key again and it rolls over for about 5 seconds than starts. Massive smoke/steam pouring out of the crankcase vent and oil cap. Exhaust smells very weird, almost like nail polish remover sort of. Kinda burns the eyes. So I'm stumped. I'm afraid to take her for a spin in case I have major engine failure. But it starts after a long crank and doesn't sound like its missing. I put my ir temp gun on all exhaust outlets and all cylinders are within 10-20 degrees of each other. I will attach a pic of what the turbo intake looks like. I'm fearing cracked head or block. But it's not pressurizing the coolant, atleast not enough for it it over flow. I even rigged up a compressor to pressurize the degas tank and there was no coolant loss and I pushed it up to almost 40lbs. Help me please because I need this vehicle to move, I was going to tow a big enclosed trailer. Oh, and prior to the valve issue, I rebuilt the oil cooler, new rings and gaskets and did not have ANY oil coolant mixing.
 

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I'm stumped. Was going to say the injector cup was installed wrong but with no loss of coolant that'd be out...
 

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It could still be the oil cooler.

You wouldn't be the first one that cut or nicked a O ring during the installation.
 

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A cup that is not seated all the way, coolant will go under cup between it and the iron of the head. It will squirt in there and give you a white puff on start up or hydro lock and you won't see a loss as it takes so little to do it. You will get white frothy oil on valve cover. It will be heaviest be the cylinder doing it.
This was the guy
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for all the input guys. I gave up on her for the time being and having it towed to my garage and I'm just gonna rip her apart. I think because the valve seat on that one I bent up was so worn, they're probably all like that so I'm just gonna yank the plant and freshen up the bottom end and slap on some Reman heads. I think you are right tho dieselnick, I'm guessing it's one or a few cups. I was gonna just get the puller and replace the cups but she's got 338k on the odometer so might as well freshen it up while I'm at it.
 
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