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1996 F-350 aftermarket gauges

11K views 36 replies 11 participants last post by  MJPliska 
#1 · (Edited)
Who has the best value or deal on a pod with EGT and tranny temp gauges that will cleanly fit my 1996 F-350. It's 100% stock. Looking to be able to read them this year as I tow my trailer.

Thanks

anyone?
 
#3 ·
You can go down to the vendor section and start to look at what some of them have. I my self have a boost, and a pyro in a two guage pod. It sounds like you have a auto tranny so you would want a transmission temp guage as well. If you like you can look HERE for a start to see what is available from DPPI. As far as price for three guages you'll be looking anywhere from $200.00 to $300.00 for them pluss the install price if you have somebody else do it.

Jim
 
#4 ·
I would highly recommend checking out Isspro. I put autometers in my truck and there great, but I installed Isspro's in my Dad's truck last year and wow. Best quality I've ever seen in a gauge.
 
#5 ·
Here another vote for Isspro´s :thumbsup:
 
#7 ·
#8 ·
Pcs0snq,

Why not have both function and looks? I've been researching gauges for a long time and I'd have to say that the new Isspro EV2 line looks to be the end all for gauges, plus they're made here in the USA; unlike most other companies. Isspro is a top OEM manufacturer of factory gauges for alot of the big truck companies, including International. One of Isspro's top engineers is a member here and even drives an OBS PSD like us, he even matched the font of the gauges to our factory gauges, so they appear factory. If you check out Isspro's website you can take a look at the EV2 line, and read some of their superior features. In my opinion, the other manufactures don't even compare.

Hope it helps,
K.N.
 
#9 ·
Pcs0snq,
If you check out Isspro's website you can take a look at the EV2 line, and read some of their superior features. In my opinion, the other manufactures don't even compare.

Hope it helps,
K.N.
KN Actually I started with ISS and was disappointed they did not have a deal set up that has it all. What I found was it's all ala cart making it a challenge to get it all correct. For example the EGT gauge did not come with sensor and the sensor had many options.

Maybe I missed it. Do they have a 3 gauge deal like the SW I posted that's 100%^ complete?
thanks
 
#12 ·
Pcs0snq,

You may want to check out Diesel Manor DieselManor - Gauges and Related Items Including Complete Kits they have simplified gauge combos. However, I believe their current combos are just the EV line and not the EV2 like I recommended. Also check out Isspro's website, they have suppliers there too, and check out their forum here on TheDieselStop.
One of the reasons that I'm saying to go with the EV2 line is that they should be much simpler, they don't need the big amplifier boxes, and the pyro uses a plug in Weatherpack connection instead of the antiquated heat shrink method. Also, the EV2 line has flat glass instead of the glare prone convex lens, and they're all electronic instead of stepper motors used in other lines.
I believe the gauges that Krokus_96F350 is referring to is the Performax line which is a really cool set-up but probably more than what you need. The Performax line requires the ESP Controller, but the EV2 line does not. The main advantage to the Performax line is the ability to run many (17) gauges. Basically the EV2 line has alot of the advantages of the Performax line, but is more reasonable for those that don't need 17 gauges.

Hope it helps,
K.N.
 
#13 ·
Pcs0snq,


I believe the gauges that Krokus_96F350 is referring to is the Performax line which is a really cool set-up but probably more than what you need. The Performax line requires the ESP Controller, but the EV2 line does not. The main advantage to the Performax line is the ability to run many (17) gauges. Basically the EV2 line has alot of the advantages of the Performax line, but is more reasonable for those that don't need 17 gauges.

Hope it helps,
K.N.
I wish I had known about the EV2 Line before I picked up the Performax stuff.
Unless you have a lot of patience and time, I'd shy away from the Performax Line, it's not worth the hassle unless your driving a race truck or something.
 
#14 ·
wow good stuff thanks all.
clamp on ETG probe is a great idea:thumbsup:

Stewart Warner was the go to folks back in the day. Long before Auto Meter. Just wondering if no one gave a comment or took a look at the one I posted because they have issues these days???
 
#15 ·
Back with a few more questions.

On the mount location. Would any of you say the under dash is a much easier installing then the pillar mount? ie routing of wire and cable through firewall and connecting to 12V and ground and dimmer.



The EGT T/C I see many styles. Look like the clamp on one is the best from easy install? On the non clamp one, did anyone drill and tap the pipe for a thread in one? ie no weld?

Was wondering if anyone could take the time to show with pic or describe the tap in locations for the EGT T/C and the Boost Pressure.

For the oil pan I was thinking of draining the fluid and just drill and tapping a place for the sensor on the side of the pan. Is that what you guys did?


I will take good pics of mine and post on the form in case this comes up again.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I did the pillar style and I used a long piece of plastic 1/4 in hose that I snaked down the pillar and left the hose in there. Then just slid the wires and boost line in hose and it was a piece of cake and now are protected in hose.

I drilled in the EX manifold and threaded it in.

The trans has a plug you just remove and install sensor

Here are great instructions and pics / dimmer works on guages with first link
Gauge Installation - 1994-1997 Power Stroke FAQ

1994-1997 Power Stroke FAQ - Pyrometer Probe Install

DieselManor - Installation Sheets
 
#18 ·
#20 ·
I think that's a great price. I don't know much about Stewart Warner, but I'd go with the black faces and put green bulb covers on the bulbs to make her look factory.
 
#21 ·
Sorry I missed this thread until now, but it looks like others have filled in with the right details on ISSPRO's offerings. I have the Performax system in my truck, but I also tow with it and race it regularly, and like to monitor lots of different values. The Total Recall feature is nice for checking out my minimum fuel pressure on a dragstrip pass, without having to watch the gauges.

The other links should be good for hooking up sensors. I personally prefer drilling and tapping the manifold versus the clamp style for thermocouple. The lowest point on the driver's side manifold (just before the junction with the up-pipe) is a perfect spot, and it's easy to drill and tap there. For boost just use a T-fitting in the MAP sensor line, up near the MAP sensor (which is mounted on the A/C evaportator housing, under the heat shield). For trans temp, use the factory pressure port on the driver's side, just above the shift linkage. For engine oil temp, you can put the sensor in place of the fill plug on the HPOP reservoir. I know this plug is a metric thread on the later trucks, but on my 1995 it was a 1/8" NPT thread, same as the sensor. If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to PM or email.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
 
#22 · (Edited)
I pulled the trigger today so we will have a different set of Gauges to judge if there is any interest in the Stewart Warner set.

The cost went up a tad
120071 (black face) set like the pic $237
15016 Auto meter 3x POD for A pillar $36
comes with everything, I'll see how that pans out

I know many like the ISS offerings, but a took a different direction on the brand. SW has been around longer then any automotive gauge Co and that together with the good pricing and looks locked it up.

After they are installed I'll update the post.

I'm an honest poster and if this turns out to be great I'll report that. Likewise if it has issues I'll also send out a warning. Either way the form readers win with a new data point, if they find and read it:read::thumbsup:

I'd like the thank everyone for the great input.
The install details is the best part.
I hate guessing on sensor locations.......
 
#23 ·
Update
Received the gauge set today and I'm blown away with the kit.:woot:
  • Gauges and sensors are made in the USA!!! :thumbsup: No made in China BS
  • T/C comes with every way in the world to install on exhaust. Engineered SS clamp, weld on bung, Threaded swaged with 3 different adapters.
  • Tranny temp sender comes with 3 different adapters
  • Comes with socketed back lights that are connected to studs on the gauge back (kind of a socket that contacts traces on gauge rear. They also have a pig tail socketed lamp if you want to wire it up like that.
  • Gauge face is real SS bezels and the convex face is anti glare coated Glass.
  • Drawings and written direction in English that look very good with wire connect drawings.
Bad news is, the Owner typed in the wrong part # for the mount and received some under dash Pod as opposed to the A plier Pod so install will not be this weekend.

I can take some pics of any of this if there is an interest.
 
#24 ·
I did the pillar on the a post and used pvc pipe, Yes pvc pipe above the rear view mirror. I still need to take pics.
 
#26 ·
Yes 140 to 320

I would be very happy if it did that, but suspect when pulling my 28' TAG it may be higher. My 4L80E ran way more in my last 3/4 ton truck.

I was going to ask what is normal and get excited for all 3 reading??
 
#27 ·
On a stock turbo, you probably don't want to see boost over 30 psi (and that's unlikely without aftermarket injectors).

For trans temp, I can't remember the exact Ford-specified limit, but I believe it is somewhere about 220° F. Basically, anything over 210° should cause you to do something to alleviate the issue (slow down, turn off OD, etc).

For pyro, the magic number is 1250°F sustained (pre-turbo). Your engine can handle momentary bursts beyond that temperature, but you don't want to see anything over that for more than a minute or so. I've tended to use 1200°F as my sustained limit, trying to be slightly conservative.

One thing to keep in mind - conventional automotive pyrometers (anything except ISSPRO Performax or EV²) are not temperature compensated. As a result, they are just showing you the difference in temperature between the probe tip and the gauge itself, with most units calibrated to assume the gauge is 70°F. With a dark interior on a hot day, you can get over 170° at the gauge, so your displayed temp could be over 100° low. That's part of the reason I started keeping my "redline" at 1200°, although all my pyros are temperature compensated these days.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
 
#28 ·
Hi I got the A pillar pod and I'm installing it all now. Needs some help!

What's the location of the MAP sensor to connect the pressure line for boost gauge?
I don't have a cooler like the write up.

Tranny sensor is in Pod painted and hole drilled in clutch firewall plate. About to drill the EGT hole in egt manifold.

Thanks
 
#30 ·
Hi I got the A pillar pod and I'm installing it all now. Needs some help!

What's the location of the MAP sensor to connect the pressure line for boost gauge?
I don't have a cooler like the write up.

Tranny sensor is in Pod painted and hole drilled in clutch firewall plate. About to drill the EGT hole in egt manifold.

Thanks
here you are:
 
#29 ·
The map sensor is just above heater core with the hose and electrical connector on it. It is right above the small box that has 2 screws holding it to heater core. I just cut the hose about 10 inches away from map sensor and installed the t
 
#31 ·
Thanks

It's all in less that connection. Taking a little brake:sick:

The install notes you guys sent me worked well.
I did do mine a little different and will mention how I changed.

I used the Auto meter 3 pod deal. #17303 Instead of making swiss cheese of the OEM plastic behind that pod, I made one 3/4" hole near the based and just fed the wire down and around the left kick plate to under the dash. If I take them off one day the OEM plastic will be good.

I unscrewed a mount NUT on a stud on the parking brake deal and put a forked lug to pick up my ground. Was close by the fuse box.

BIG one worth repeating
I was already to use a 1/2 back bracket I had cut to hold the gauge in the pod and decided instead to just make them slide in snug. I wrapped a little black tape on the gauge body and the fit in the pod snug, but can be pulled out to change the light bulb easy. I also did not tie wrap all the wire behind just so I could pull the three Gauges out.
 
#34 ·
:thumbsup:
Nice job Looks great
 
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