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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for some better further insight on making more power with my 7.3
Currently has 136k miles original
New adrenaline hpop
Dominator 66 turbo (also have a set of kc twins laying around )
Irate competition fuel system
Irate regulated return kit
Beans sump
Ts6
200cc injectors (plan to go bigger)
Inner cooler
Stage 3 trans with overhaul
Arp head studs
Built heads with all new gaskets
 

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More fuel and more air - you've addressed those. Tuning is probably the only real avenue you have open without replacing internal engine parts. Which INTERcooler did you get (no such thing as an inner cooler) Did you replace the intake plenums? No boost leaks anywhere?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
More fuel and more air - you've addressed those. Tuning is probably the only real avenue you have open without replacing internal engine parts. Which INTERcooler did you get (no such thing as an inner cooler) Did you replace the intake plenums? No boost leaks anywhere?
I added riff raff billet plenums
Wouldn’t mind engine internals just don’t know where to start top end is done already bottom end is stock.
6.0 intercooler e99 spyder intake and piping.
 

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FWIW, this is what I have in my notes from various sources concerning the topic:

There were two types of rods offered in the 7.3L: forged steel and powdered metal. The type you have makes all the difference in the world when it comes to how far you should attempt to push things. If you own a ’94.5 to ’99 7.3L Power Stroke, you’re in luck, as all those engines feature forged rods. However, powdered metal rods—known to be considerably weaker—began to make their way into production on late ’00 build date engines.

DANGER ZONE (forged rods): 600-650-rwhp

DANGER ZONE (powdered metal): 500-rwhp
 
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