Thanks Patrick, I checked my oil levels. My crankcase level was a little low, but still fine. However, My HPOP reservoir was completely empty. I am now suspecting a bad IPR or a bad LPOP? Is there an easy way I can narrow down which one is bad?
1996 F250 7.3L PSD no start
Hey guys, I'm new here, but I'm hoping some of you here could help give me some input on what might be causing my no start situation. I was out shoveling snow all night for my job here in Colorado, and had to let the truck sit out in the 5 degree weather for about 7 hours. I went to try and start it when I was done, cycled my glow plugs multiple times, and tried cranking it over with no luck. (I have this happen pretty often if the truck is left unplugged for a while under 50 degrees, and I'm pretty sure that's due to a couple bad glow plugs). Anyways, I tried jumping it with my boss's truck, with no luck either. We sprayed a SMALL amount of ether in while I was cranking to try to get the fuel to catch as well. I found it odd that it didn't do anything jumping it because of the fact that I've always gotten the engine to turn over while being jumped. It was getting cold by then, so I had someone bring me home for the day. The next day, I rented a generator from Home Depot to run my block heater and a trickle charger to get the batteries at an optimal voltage. About 2 1/2 hours later, the truck still wouldn't try doing anything more than cranking. I pulled off the fuel filter to see if my fuel had gelled, but it was all liquid (plus I have winter additive in the system). At this point, I was tired of diagnosing the truck in a parking lot, so I just had it towed back to my house the next day. As soon as I got it back, I plugged it in and put the trickle charger back on. Let it sit for 24+ hours to keep it warm. Today I went out to start it, and again the same old cranking. I tested my batteries which are fine, both read at 13.18 volts. Tested the GPR, replaced the solenoid because it seemed to smoke a bit after being used a lot because of corrosion on the terminals (new one works fine). I tried starting with my ICP unplugged with no luck. My block warmer definitely works, as I can feel heat throughout the engine. I don't get any sort of smoke out of the tailpipe, but I do get a slight smell of very cold ignited diesel, so it is trying to burn a little fuel. My CPS likely isn't an issue either because I get a crank reading of about 100rpm on my tach when it cranks. The only idea I have at this point is a bad IPR solenoid or sticking poppets in the injectors. The truck has 304,000 miles on it. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Alex
Thanks,
Alex
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Alright, sorry guys, I've been pretty busy so it's been hard to find time to really dig into it. I checked for power at the IPR harness and it checked out at just under 12v. I also did a resistance test on the IPR itself and came up with a solid 9.5 ohms, just under spec but I assume should still at least sort of work.Check for power at the IPR connector with the key on. Again, check the IPR wiring. For the LP oil, you would probably need to plumb in a mechanical gauge (there are 2 plugs on the oil filter housing facing the fender. Use the one on the right). Cheers!
I cranked the engine and it didn't fill the reservoir. I even tried jumpstarting the process by putting some oil manually in the reservoir and tried starting it but still just cranking. I have a new oil pump ready to be installed, I just would rather return it and get my money back if that is not my issue.Crank the engine for 10 seconds or so. You can even do this with a remote switch on the starter relay, so you're not activating the PCM/injectors. If that doesn't fill the HPO reservoir, then indeed you have an LP -> HP oil issue. Either the lube pump (aka LPOP) is failed, or something is keeping oil from being pumped from the pan up to the HP res.
1 - 4 of 8 Posts
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