The Diesel Stop banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To preface, I am reasonably handy in repairing gasoline engines, but have no experience servicing diesel engines, so any help would be appreciated.

I recently acquired a 1996 7.3 Powerstroke Ford E350 Box truck. When I purchased it, it was very difficult to start, but the previous owner had installed a battery that was way too small. Just finished installing brand new batteries and replaced the starter. Drove the truck about 40 miles and it was running like a top. I pulled into the driveway (U shaped and slightly up a hill) and left the truck idling at the top of the hill on level ground for about 5 minutes while I unloaded some packages and moved some vehicles around so I could park the truck where I wanted it.

I got back in the truck (still running smoothly), drove it forward about 20 feet, turned slightly left and slightly down hill and the truck died. No sputtering, no rough running, just an instant dead. Tried starting again and the engine turned, but no hint of any ignition. I coasted down the hill to get back on level ground and tried again and the same thing, no hint of ignition.

I let it sit overnight and tried again, still no hint of ignition. Tach is reading about 250RPM when I am attempting to start.

Does anyone have any thoughts on what might be wrong, or some troubleshooting that I can try.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
If you can, run an injector balance test to see if the injectors are firing. If you don't hear anything, more than likely, you have a bad IDM. These trucks are known for getting water in the IDM and shorting out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
783 Posts
Welcome to the forum. Do some quick and inexpensive testing first:

If you have a chip installed, remove it.

Put a tire pressure gauge on the Schrader valve (located on the side of the fuel filter bowl). Crank the engine and see if you get 30 - 40 psi. If your engine is stock, the fuel system is 100% mechanical, with no sensors anywhere.

Check the High Oil Pressure Pump reservoir level - it needs to be 1/2" from the top.

Unplug the Injector Control Pressure sensor and try to start it. Unplugging this sensor kicks your high oil pressure up a notch.

Replace the Cam Position Sensor with one from Ford or IHC. This will cost $35 or so, and is the quickest/easiest way to test the CPS. If this does not fix the problem, you'll have a spare CPS to carry with you in the glovebox.

If it was my truck and still had no start, I would find the glow plug relay, remove one of the small wires, give it a small shot of ether. Then stay on the starter just a second or two after it kicks off.

Some find the use of ether on a diesel abhorrent. Truth is, ether and diesels go together like cream and sugar. Ether use on diesels dates back to 635AD. Just don't overdo it.

The attached pdf is hard to look at, but it has a lot of illustrations that can help you locate certain parts.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
783 Posts
Also:

I'd suggest you not pull the fuel filter lid off unless you have a new filter available to install. In my experience, the o-ring on the lid will have expanded, and you will not get it back in place.

NEVER (though I'm the only person who will ever say this) NEVER pour unfiltered fuel into the fuel bowl. You risk getting trash in your fuel rail and that can cause expensive and difficult-to-diagnose repairs.

NEVER remove a fuel filter from the bowl without first draining the fuel bowl - for the same reason as above. The fuel bowl has a drain valve on it - look for a yellow-colored tab on a shaft.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
730 Posts
Take a look at this:

Originally posted by Dave (Golfer) on PSN 01-20-2010 Thanks Dave (Swamps Diesel)
its nevvvvver the oil pump...seriously.
I see sooooooooooooooo many guys (dealerships included) that see "no ICP" or some ICP
codes in a scantool...and toss HPOP's on truck after truck...when it is either an IPR or an
injector (poppet valve) issue.
Hook up the scantool, and monitor ICP PSI and ICP Duty Cycle %. while
cranking...you'll see IPR% (duty cycle) climb & climb 15% key on..20, 30, 40, 55%,
higher..the increase in IPR% means that the PCM is requesting ICP pressure to increase...
so ALSO watch ICP(psi) and if it comes up to only 180-250psi or so and stays
there...then it's the IPR hung open (bypassing oil back to the oil pan through the front
cover) such that only minimal psi can be made.
If the ICP is VERY low...like under 60psi...then it could be injector (poppets) pissing oil
(under the VC's)..which is typical for injector with more than 180-200k miles.
if ICP climbs above 550-600..then it will probably climb much higher (15-1800+) and it
is most likely going to be an electrical issue.
If his scantool will not connect then its a PCM or chip issue (remove the chip if you have
one & haven't removed it yet)
if the scantool connects AND you have >600ICP then look at the datastream for a RPM
reading.
if the scantool picks up an RPM signal and it seems accurate....then the CPS is good.
If no RPM on the scantool, replace CPS.
If you have RPM (on scantool, not just on dash)...AND have ICP >600, then run an (key
on, eng off) injector "buzz test"...
the buzz test is nothing more than a continuity test from the PCM, through the IDM, and
to & from each injector solenoid.
LISTEN to each inj buzz....do they all sound the same? nice & crisp?
if the test passes (and you audibly heard them all)...then wiring is good, IDM is good,
HPOP is good...CPS is good...then it could be a fuel issue. gasoline, water, etc...
I wouldn't mention it if I haven't seen it myself numerous times...
any chance this no start began with 10-20miles after a fillup?
holler if you need help troubleshooting. take care~ Dave


Where are you located?
Hope this helps,
Carl.
 
  • Like
Reactions: car23

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Kimber, all good info! That's a nice pistola too.

I didn't think about the raw fuel in the bowl could be problematic.

Could you strain it through a coffee filter & paper towel to get a cup or quart of fuel - would that be proper/enough filtration in emergency situation?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
783 Posts
Kimber, all good info! That's a nice pistola too.

I didn't think about the raw fuel in the bowl could be problematic.

Could you strain it through a coffee filter & paper towel to get a cup or quart of fuel - would that be proper/enough filtration in emergency situation?

I wouldn't trust it. If I had to do something, I would use a paint strainer that the automotive painters use.

If your batteries are up and you are not filling the fuel bowl by cranking, you have a problem somewhere that needs to be addressed. Filling the bowl manually is not going to help you find that problem.

---

The Kimber has night sights, CT laser, and flawless function. Those times when I have to go check out an alarm in a dark warehouse at 3AM, I do so with confidence :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,374 Posts
Rather than using fuel at all, I would opt to fill the bowl with an inherently clean fluid, like ATF from a sealed quart bottle, or Diesel 911. But indeed, that's just a symptom; if the bowl's not filling, something's going on "upstream" (first stage of fuel pump, lines, selector valve, tank pickup, etc.).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
783 Posts
Rather than using fuel at all, I would opt to fill the bowl with an inherently clean fluid, like ATF from a sealed quart bottle, or Diesel 911. But indeed, that's just a symptom; if the bowl's not filling, something's going on "upstream" (first stage of fuel pump, lines, selector valve, tank pickup, etc.).

That's a good idea - I hadn't thought of that.

Just remember there's trash accumulated at the bottom of the bowl. Pouring anything into the bowl is apt to stir up that trash. If the filter could be left in place and was tight against the bottom of the bowl, in theory you could pour unfilterd fuel on the trash-side of the filter, and clean fluid on the clean side. Still risky.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Kimber, Roger that on the fuel scenario.

Man after my own style what with the super glo trijicon sights, works great for day glow and at night. Then with the laser. My eyes are so bad now that I can't form a clear sight picture without glasses but I can see a red dot just fine and instinctive fire well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
560 Posts
if you got rpms reading then your crank sensor is ok, im guessing that if it just straight up died that its possible that your fuel filter heating element shorted out and blew the fuse that controls damn near everything its a (30amp I think) big green fuse in the fuse block under the hood. check that if that's blown unhook the heater its the squareish looking plug on the side of your fuel bowl very common for them to crap out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just an update. I finally had an opportunity to work on the truck. It turned out is was the IDM that had failed. Also replaced the Cam Position sensor. Running fine now.

Thanks for your assistance.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top