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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1997 CC 4x4 that started just fine last weekend. this weekend i was installing some guages and now all the sudden it wont start. i havent even hooked power to the guages yet because i dont want to until i can make sure they are correct.

So as for my no start issue...HPOP is full, fuel bowl is full, wait to start acts normal, no check engine light unless im cranking it over. all fuses are good to include number 22, changed CPS and that is where i get stumped. before i changed the CPS there wasnt any tach movment and after the change there is a very small amount of movement that i wouldnt even consider movment. Im about to change the CPS again but i would really like to get some input first. Also i would like to note that there is no smoke coming from the tail pipe. the truck is slow cranking also since i have tried several times to start it but i have had a charger on it with the start setting and it cranks over very fast with the charger on it.

So how much should my tach move when starting? i really never payed attention to it before like i should have. Is there anything else that would control tach movment that im missing??????? thanks for all the help in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Help!!!!!!!

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated... if anyone is in UT or has rebuilt there IPR i would really appreaciate some insight
 

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It seems to be cranking over like normal. I have a battery charger on while cranking and i checked the battery voltage which is 12.5v. Could it be my starter? It just blows my mind because it ran just fine last sunday and now all it does is crank with no smoke out the tail pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So...if i change my IPR will all the oil drain from my HPOP? If so is there a way to eliminate this...i really dont want oil dripping over a new drive way or sitting in the valley collecting dust
 

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You can pull the pipe plug on the driver side top of the HPOP reservoir and use a hand vacuum pump with brake bleeder reservoir to suck the oil out of the HPOP reservoir. This is how I did mine the times I have needed to.

You will have to empty the vacuum pump bleeder reservoir several times but it will work. Don't forget to refill the HPOP reservoir before you try to restart.
 

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I just tried mine. The tach registered about 300 rpm with the two bolt denso hi-torque starter before it fired and idled at 600 rpm. Do you have an aftermarket chip that inserts into your PCM beside the emergency footbrake? If so, check for a good connection.

My thinking - no smoke on crank means no fuel which normally means not enough oil pressure to fire the injectors.
 

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I just tried mine. The tach registered about 300 rpm with the two bolt denso hi-torque starter before it fired and idled at 600 rpm. Do you have an aftermarket chip that inserts into your PCM beside the emergency footbrake? If so, check for a good connection.

My thinking - no smoke on crank means no fuel which normally means not enough oil pressure to fire the injectors.
i agree 100%.based on the comment about the cos and the battery charger I am still leaning toward slow cranking. That one has gotten me before and it's deceptive!

If that's not it you need to measure hpop pressure.

Is it normal for the Cel light to be on when cranking? I don't remember it on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for all the help...im going to try the starter first...because even after 2 CPSs i still have hardly anything on the tach...just a wiggle that is barely noticable
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Can anyone chime in and let me know how much tach movement they are getting from a stock starter? I just dont want to drop 150$ for nothing if thats not the reason.
 

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the cranking voltage is what you want to check
You say you have 12 volts but if you are cranking engine over the voltage while cranking MUST be over 10.5 volts. If your starter and batts are weak then that could be reason for no smoke as PCM will not activate injectors untill it sees 10.5 volts. Dont go by the sound of the turning over to say it is spinning over ok. Weaks batts/ bad connections and weak starter is MOST COMMON mis-diagnosed problem when you have no start Powerstroke. You say you installed gauges and that means that you had door open for hours and lights on in cab unless you pulled cab fuse or bat cables. That alone could have drained batts enough and if you have weak batts or loose cables then batts are not getting charged back up enough
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I understand that but i also had a charger on the truck the entire time while cranking... With the charger on the 60amp start setting im pretty sure i had 10.5 volts going to the starter. Im not going to get a chance to work on it until next weekend but i will check my voltage next weekend while cranking just to be sure.
 

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I understand that but i also had a charger on the truck the entire time while cranking... With the charger on the 60amp start setting im pretty sure i had 10.5 volts going to the starter. Im not going to get a chance to work on it until next weekend but i will check my voltage next weekend while cranking just to be sure.
You'd be shocked what the stock starter can draw, especially when bad. I understand what you are telling me, but I still think you don't have enough juice. Excavator is 100% correct about everything he said, especially the part about starting problems being misdiagnosed. I wanted to type all that, but was doing so on my iphone. It was difficult to get a long post in there.

To answer your question, my stock starter shows about 200 RPM when cranking.



I can recall my first diesel truck. I bought it in fort worth texas. I drove it no more than half an hour outside town, then stopped to fill up. I had been on a greyhound all night and was a little upset about the condition of the truck, but bought it anyway. When I went back out to get it after filling up, it was cranking but no start. A guy with a diesel stopped by and offered a jump. I told him it wasn't necessary, that it was cranking and something else must be wrong. He insisted that could still be the case, and he pulled out this miserable pair of jumper cables. It still wouldn't start. I called the seller who insisted that it must need batteries, and I argued with him too. He ignored me and had a pair of batteries brought out. After those were put in it cranked unbelievably fast and fired up instantly. I was so nervous about it starting again that it wasn't shut off the whole way home. The radiator was plugged with dirt and the ac didn't work, so it was trying to overheat on the way home, and I slept in that hot truck with the engine running in Oklahoma July heat. There was nothing else wrong with it, it just had bad batteries.

Since then, I have been fooled by this a few other times also when cables or starters are on the fritz. That's why I keep insisting that it's a battery problem. Do what excavator said and I'll come up with other things to try - but it's easy and free to try so needs to be checked first.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
you guys are genius's....i just got 2 new batteries because i just couldnt wait til next weekend. It fired right up and its never cranked so fast. I guess 12 years on a set of batteries was just to much to ask. They were the factory batteries.
Well i dont want to get off subject but how long does it take your EGT gauge to read?...im pretty sure i have it wired correctly but the quick little drive i took didnt register anything on the guage.
 

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good to hear! I have no idea on the gauge.

These diesels are very different than gas engines- enormous power requirements to start. I get two years to a set of batteries.
 

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The egt gauge reads just a minute after starting with out driving.
You must have some thing not right.
Glad the truck started with the new batts :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I figured out the gauge. I just swapped a couple of wires around. the directions didnt specify which color of wire to put where so i guessed but guessed wrong. Atleast it was an easy fix. Thanks for all the help...i knew there was a reason i come to this site religously<<<<<<i cant spell
 

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Glad to hear that you got it running - Just a word to the wise on jumping these things off - that I think someone else touched on - Just because your seeing 12.5 static - does not mean that when you turn the key you still see 12.5. Another good test when your on the side of the road- Turn the headlights on and then crank the engine - When you first turn the key you should see the lights dim and instantly pop back up to bright - If while your starting your lights get dimmer and dimmer - More than likely you have a starter/bats that are going bad -

I can't believe those are factory batteries - I guess that was when batteries were still made well - Lord knows you can't find batteries today that are worth a damn -
 
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