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Discussion Starter #1
1997 F-350 7.3 Turbo Powerstroke ( Looking for a good source of Fuel bowl and Banjo gaskets. )

Just picked up my truck and have a fuel drip, 1 drip per second fuel leak,, on the ground coming from between the engine and trans,,,
further inspection showed the top of the intake manifold has little puddles of fuel :))
SUPER close inspection while running and cant see where the source is ...

SOOO
I want to pull the fuel bowl and mechanical pump tomorrow,,,
BUT
I wish to buy -
  • set of banjo gaskets ( 1 inch round gaskets, round , for the high pressure side ) the big 1 1/4 nut fitting -
  • blue fuel line -
  • referb kit for fuel bowl ( or whatever folks here recommend i need to do with that 25 year old fuel bowl while i have it out )

Link would be great - Im in PA so closer shops that you folks use is better ...

In addition can anyone send me a link to " watch " a video or read an article about the fuel bowl / mechanical fuel pump removal / install / system bleed procedure..
Thank you all
 

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You are not going to find any parts by tomorrow (Saturday) to do this type of a job except for a fuel pump and banjo gaskets.

I would suggest putting it off until next weekend or so and get your parts from Diesel O Rights or RiffRaft Diesel.



 

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I would go with Diesel O-Rings as they have everything in one order. They also have instructions for resealing the fuel bowl. What year is this truck? The fuel restriction sensor (FRS) on the earlier OBS trucks (94-95) is on the back of the fuel bowl down low. They love to leak and if that's the source of your leak you won't want to take everything back out to fix it. It's a 1/8 NPT thread and many folks just plug the port. 96-97 have the FRS on the fuel pressure regulator which is easy to fix or plug if leaking. For what you want to do, I would get:

Fuel Pump w/Banjo Gaskets (Diesel O-rings pumps come with the gaskets)
Pack of 2 blue hoses with 4 clamps
Pack of 1 upper blue hose with 2 clamps
Pack of 1 black return hose with 2 clamps
I fuel Bowl reseal kit

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you all,,,
I ordered last night,,,
Now im horrified about lifting the fuel pump out :)))) lol
 

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There is a how to replace the fuel pump in this thread.

I'm not sure if it mentions it but once the fuel pump is loose turn the engine over by hand. This will lift the pump up off of the mount and bring the tappet that usually falls into the oil pan up to a point that you can grab it.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
THANK YOU all :)
Today I pulled the <pump, and the fuel bowl and ( yes ) i got the tappet out with out issues OMG :)))
Im very new to diesel so i was VERY cautious and followed the tips here..
SO heres where i am ....
- pump is out without issues with tappet and all
-cleaned the muck out of the fuel bowl

QUESTIONS -
- i was very careful so i " may " have missed this BUT i see a 3rd wire on the harness that goes into the regulator / fuel bowl assembly,, im holding the wire in the attached pic... it does not seem to be going anywhere ( its possible i pulled it off of somewhere ) - is it possible that the harness has 3 wires and one is not used ? i looked around and cant find out where it goes......????

- i seen only one washer on the banjo bolt ( facing the pump side )
it looks like there "may" be a brass one on the side of the fitting facing the firewall , but i cant see it because of the turbo bracket.. does anyone know if one is brass and one fiber,????

Thanks for any help yet again....
 

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That wire goes to the fuel restriction sensor that I mentioned previously. Your sensor has already been removed as there is a hex-headed plug in the fuel pressure regulator in the picture. The two other wires you see are the fuel heater (top) and water-In-fuel sensor (bottom). The black plastic standpipe can be removed with a 7/8" crows-foot wrench and it is LEFTHAND threaded. That plate underneath it is the fuel heater. If the bare wire on the plate or any of the 3 pads are loose, the heater is bad and if it shorts you will be dead-in-the-water when it blows underhood fuse #22. The gaskets for the banjo fitting are both metal. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thank u for the response.
So if I read ur response correct that wire does not have a home anymore and can just be loose because the fuel restriction sensor is gone ???
 

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Yes the wire can be loose, one of my trucks has been that way for years now. Just remember to change your fuel filter. I usually do mine every other oil change. On another note while cranking the engine, make sure that your (Water in Fuel light) lights up it is under the wait to start light. If it does not flash while cranking let us Know. Easy fix but do not ask me how I found out.
Quick tip on the fuel pump, set it in all the way and lightly tighten the two bolts before trying to attach the banjo bolt. When attaching the banjo bolt I found it easiest to shove one or two fingers under the turbo to start the bolt while the other hand holds the hard lines tight to the pump. Just make sure that you do not drop the inner gasket off the end of the bolt before you get the tread started. Again do not ask me how I know.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sir you KNOW ur stuff )))) and I appreciate the knowledge,, ordered all from diesel o rings,,, keep u posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes the wire can be loose, one of my trucks has been that way for years now. Just remember to change your fuel filter. I usually do mine every other oil change. On another note while cranking the engine, make sure that your (Water in Fuel light) lights up it is under the wait to start light. If it does not flash while cranking let us Know. Easy fix but do not ask me how I found out.
Quick tip on the fuel pump, set it in all the way and lightly tighten the two bolts before trying to attach the banjo bolt. When attaching the banjo bolt I found it easiest to shove one or two fingers under the turbo to start the bolt while the other hand holds the hard lines tight to the pump. Just make sure that you do not drop the inner gasket off the end of the bolt before you get the tread started. Again do not ask me how I know.
Latest development))) all the fuel leaks on TOP of motor are stopped,,, the fuel bowl is all rebuilt and new pump is in
BUT (((
There is fuel leaking from the driver side cylinder head l shaped fitting that screws into the back cylinder head on one side and the fuel line comi g from the pump in the other side ( the big banjo bolt is tight and where the line takes a Y to each cylinder is good and even where the line screws into the L shaped fitti g is good ,,, it coming out where the L fitting screws I to the head,,, I will " try " to disconnect from the line and perhaps turn the L shaped elbow a full turn tighter into the head and then reconnect the line ,,,
Have u ever seen this before ( I hope I can turn it without removing the turbo OMGosh )
 

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Are you sure it's leaking where the fitting screws into the head and not where the line attaches to the fitting? That fitting can be a PITA due to it's location. I can't remember whether you can rotate it without hitting something (and you'll need to do a full turn or remove and reseal the NPT threads). If you do disconnect the fuel line from the fitting, replace the Parker 60VLV-4 Viton Sleeve (1/4 inch) (dieselorings.com). I replaced the sleeves on mine when I did the bowl reseal, fuel pump, etc. I have a California 97, so the turbo had to come off for mine. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am absolutely sure the fuel is coming out if the L shaped fitting where it screws into the block, when it's running I put a dental mirror under the exhaust pipe on the turbo and I can see it comming out,,, and by the looks of the block and all the way back under the truck it has been ,,, ( I just got this truck and the fuel was leaking when I bought it ) it was all over the top of the intake sooooo I assumed it was ( just ) the fuel bowl / fuel pump ))
 

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Discussion Starter #14
update....

well i disconnected the hard line from the banjo bolt to the L shaped elbow fitting going into the head,,,
and
the elbow fitting going into the head is so loose i can spin it ( only 1/2 a turn ) with my fingers,,, very loose 100% the source
The bad - i cannot spin it more than 1/2 a turn because the turbo exhaust is in the way,,,

I " started to take the turbo off....
but couldn't even get the bolts loose from the top flange of the exhaust ,,,
Question,,, if i took a Dremel tool and cut the elbow it would then spin off in my hand ,, the question is then i could spin something into the head that was straight BUT would been a fitting that could then hook to the fuel line,,, is there any flexible fuel lines or.... idk man,,
OK If i can cut the bolts where the 2 bottom exhaust pipes hook to the lower exhaust system and can manage to loosen the pedestal bolts i can just move the turbo back the 1/2 inch and then twist it in tight ....
AND if i get the turbo off should i check / bag that backpressure flap....
Looking for some direction -
 

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It's been a while for me, but can you get to the driver's side uppipe flange bolts (both upper and lower)? If so you might be able to get enough room shifting the uppipe's position to remove the fitting and then reseal it. I would remove the turbo way before I would ever cut the fitting and try to make something else work (JMHO). If I have to remove the turbo again, I'm going to get a EBPV-delete pedestal and high-flow turbo exhaust flange for mine. I deleted the EBPV butterfly and modified the pedestal on my 94. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
update,,
i cannot spin the L elbow connector because the exhaust manifold part of the turbo that bolts to the 2 down pipes is in the way, at a minimum that must be dissected from the turbo
where i am now,,,,
  • got the 2 top 1/2 inch bolts off the top of that exhaust flange,
  • ( not sure why ) but got the 3 star headed bolts out of the back pressure flap , seperated it from the turbo and now can " see " one of the lower 9/16 nuts - passenger side
  • tried to get a swivel and 9/16 socket on the 2 lower 9/16 nuts of that turbo exhaust - wont fit
-tried to get a claw foot 9/16 wrench on the 2 bottom 9/16 nuts of that same turbo exhaust - wont fit
- tried to get a 9/16 hand wrench on them,,,, nope

- what im thinking of doing,
------ take a dremel tool and cut the 2 9/16 nuts off the bottom of that exhaust flange
------ push the turbo exhaust flange back ( and if i need to disconnect the 2 pipes from that flange
------ tighten elbow,,,
------- try to assemble
the problem is i will not be able to tighten the bottom bolts,,,,

- question - exactly what size tool do i need to properly loosen then star nuts
IF i can get the 4 loose from the other side of the turbo then perhaps i will be able to separate it there
 

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Disconnect the downpipe from the EBPV housing and disconnect the actuator rod from the EBPV linkage so you can get it out of the way. I don't think I would mess with the compressor side of the turbo. The star-headed bolts use a torx bit (forgot the size). Buy a good quality set of Torx bit sockets. I shattered a cheapo bit trying to get off the serpentine belt tensioner. My subsequent Craftsman set hasn't let me down yet. After that you'll need to get those 14mm nuts on the lower part of the flange. Don't cut them off. I managed to get mine off, it will just take some creative thinking (I can't remember but I may have sacrificed a 14mm box wrench and cut it down). A EBPV-delete pedestal makes turbo removal easy with no EBPV actuator cylinder in the way. If you get into it where you can remove the fitting and put some "yellow" (for petroleum applications) pipe tape on the fitting's NPT threads, I would do that. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok so I got turbo off, cut down pipes and pulled it all off ,,, the brass fitting elbow is smoked ,,, flipping it's so loose and won't tighten even if screwed till it bottoms out in block,,, it's threads are justworn from vibration,,, the block thread is good,,,
What a job,,,
Ordered kit with down pipes, exhaust flange,,. And from diesel o ring I ordered turbo o rings and brass fuel elbow ,,,, ( I have done many jobs,, this is a nightmare )
Ps, u cannot get the 15mm nuts off the bottom of the turbo without a 15mm swivel on a 3/4 drive and an impact gun,,, ,,, wow ,,,
 
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