[samguy2000]

Rear windows in my '99 F-250 Super Duty Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel do not roll down and the door ajar light is on on the dashboard.
Took it to a shop and they said they found 1 broken wire but I guess they can't do anything else without the wiring diagram.
Does anyone have or could point me in the direction of a pdf version for the wiring diagram for a 1999 Ford F-250 Diesel 7.3 super duty crew cab???

 

[klhansen]

They can't fix the broken wire? The door ajar light is a symptom of a sticking switch in the latch. Douse the latches with WD40 and see if that fixes that. The window issue is very likely the switches. Have you tried both the master switch on the driver's door AND the switches on the back doors? The switches are the weak link in the system.

The attached should be what you need.

 

[samguy2000]

They can't fix the broken wire? The door ajar light is a symptom of a sticking switch in the latch. Douse the latches with WD40 and see if that fixes that. The window issue is very likely the switches. Have you tried both the master switch on the driver's door AND the switches on the back doors? The switches are the weak link in the system.

The attached should be what you need.

Yeah, I took it to them to see if they could get the rear windows to roll down and to get the door ajar light to go away.

Thing is, I am like the 5th owner on this truck and it has a chip/tuner in it.

The mechanics said that i have a electrical mess or something of that nature under there somewhere. and electrical issues on a vehicle can get expensive.

I called them today and they said without the wiring diagram (which i think is something you can only get from a dealer) they couldn't do anything more.

The mechanic said if it was him he would just leave the reae windows now rolling down as is. He means not spend any money on it as it is not that major of an issue, and I am inclined to agree.

The door ajar issue he said was probably electrical too. I suggested wd40 and he said you don't wanna do that as there is electronics in the door latches which can be damaged by that i think.

thank you for the attachments. will see what i can do.

also as a sidenote i did take it to them for a 3rd thing which was i couldn't get the blower fan to switch off of defrost. they took a look at it. and he managed to get it off of defrost to the blow and defrost setting but he said when i went to test out the 4wd with a friend that i was only switching the transfer case, he said something about i could have the blower or the 4wd but not both at the same time.

He gave me 2 parts to get which were part numbers:

7c3z9h465a

4c3z9e453a

The 2 parts were a 4wd solenoid/actuator and

a vaccum pump canister / reservoir.

 

[klhansen]

You may very well have a mess in the electrical system. Those are a giant pain to fix, especially if you have no idea what the previous owner may have done.

For the heater and 4WD issue, you have a vacuum leak. Without vacuum, Defrost is the default heater position and the hubs won't engage or disengage. Many times it's as simple as a hose that's deteriorated. Not that hard to troubleshoot.

WD40 in the door latch won't hurt the switch. Lots of members here can vouch for that remedy.

I think you need to find a mechanic who can actually fix things instead of just swapping parts (or advising you to do that).

 

[samguy2000]

You may very well have a mess in the electrical system. Those are a giant pain to fix, especially if you have no idea what the previous owner may have done.

For the heater and 4WD issue, you have a vacuum leak. Without vacuum, Defrost is the default heater position and the hubs won't engage or disengage. Many times it's as simple as a hose that's deteriorated. Not that hard to troubleshoot.

WD40 in the door latch won't hurt the switch. Lots of members here can vouch for that remedy.

I think you need to find a mechanic who can actually fix things instead of just swapping parts (or advising you to do that).

Yeah, these mechanics are kinda weird.

Maybe they are trying to save me money on a 20 yr old truck with 270k miles for a diesel.

yes, the blower fan worked fine when i first got the truck. then when i turned it on on the first cold day of the season (fall 2020, as i just got the truck 9-23-20)
there was a whistling noise coming from that area (inside dash somewhere idk lol) i thought maybe something needed to be lubricated.

yeah so i ordered 2 parts off of amazon, the 4wd actuator switch /solenoid and the vaaccum canister/reservoir. got em for 124$$ altogether.

thing is, with the electrical system the truck has a chip/tuner in it. I've messed with it while the truck is on and in park and you can hear the engine vibrate more when it is switched.

i will attach a photo.
i try to leave it stock at all time to avoid damaging the engine or whatever.

at least the truck runs well. so i can drive it lol.

 

[klhansen]

If it runs well I wouldn't mess with the chip. It has nothing to do with heater operation or 4WD. You can remove the chip if you like. Be sure that the engine is off and the key out before you remove it. The chip will be located at the rear of the PCM, which is above the parking brake pedal.