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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently had this at a garage for over a month and they finally decided the PCM was bad. I sent mine out and had it repaired and they sent it back then I waited almost a week before the shop installed it. The truck then started and ran fine but the mechanic said the IPR was going bad as well as the ICP sensor. He had also swapped out the CPS even though I had just put in a new Ford one while I was troubleshooting. So, I ran it for a bit and it seemed to run great for a day but on my way home from a 15 mile trip it cut out but didn't completely stall three times. Next day I dove it a few hundred feet and it stalled then I waited a minute and it started up and ran a few feet and stalled. I made it around my block just before it died completely and wouldn't start again. This morning it started right up and I let it idle smoothly while I went in and made coffee..it was dead before I got back to it and won't start at all. The WTS light does come on, fuel pump is working and bowl is full, HPOP reservoir is full, engine oil level is good. It acts just like the CPS is bad...been there before. I do have an obd2 bluetooth interface and used the Torque app to try to see any codes but it finds nothing. The check engine light is not on. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Recent (within last 30 miles driven) troubleshooting/upgrades:

Tried three different new CPS
New IPR valve
New ICP...wires and plug are dry
Repaired PCM
New fuel pump in frame
New fuel pressure regulator
Fresh oil change with Rotella T6 and Motorcraft filter
New air filter
New Motorcraft fuel filter
New Jegs high power starter
Two new Duralast Gold batteries
 

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Next time it dies pull the ICP censor wire and see if it starts and runs. PCM defaults to a set pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Next time it dies pull the ICP censor wire and see if it starts and runs. PCM defaults to a set pressure.
I did try that a couple times but forgot to mention it. Didn't make a difference except with it unplugged the check engine light comes on.
 

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1999 ford f250
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It may be the tin nut on the ipr valve wasn't tightened correctly or at all if the mechanic got in a hurry or you know stuff just happens so I would check that if you haven't 🙂👍🏻
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It may be the tin nut on the ipr valve wasn't tightened correctly or at all if the mechanic got in a hurry or you know stuff just happens so I would check that if you haven't 🙂👍🏻
Thanks for the reply. I put it in myself yesterday and was very careful to not over tighten the nut as well. Last night I went down the wire that runs the CPS and carefully inspected it, looks fine. For the heck of it I tried starting it up with the ICP disconnected again and it started right up and idled smoothly after a few seconds. I let it sit there and idle for 15 minutes or so and then jumped in and pushed the brake pedal so I could shift it into reverse...the engine died as soon as I hit the pedal and wouldn't start again. So weird, now I am regretting taking it to the mechanic because I don't know what he may have screwed with. I researched threads about the engine dying when hitting the brake in park and they all either end with no solution or lead to a bad CPS, a short or a bad ground. After trying three CPS I am confident that isn't the issue and am just trying to find any damage in the wiring. One thing interesting is the only times it has started since this problem began is when it has sat for several hours and the engine is completely cool. So frustrating.
 

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A no-start when hot but starts when cold could be an issue with the HP oil system not being able to build the required pressure. Possibly injector o-ring leakage. The hot oil is thinner and can get thru the leak point easier.
The dying when you mash the brakes points to a short between that circuit and an engine control circuit, but no telling where that might be. It's going to be a bugger to track down. Did the check engine light come on when you mashed the brakes and it died?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The check engine light was already on when I hit the brake last night because the ICP was disconnected. The truck wouldn't cold start this morning. At this point I am thinking that I may replace the whole wiring harness but I can only find one for the engine readily available. I wish I had a decent code reader because I find it hard to believe no codes are being thrown. Is there an affordable option out there for a shade tree mechanic that would allow me to monitor fuel and oil pressures as well as sensor inputs and outputs with key on and while cranking? My HPOP may have issues but it doesn't explain how it would idle nicely for so long last night without issue until I hit the brakes in park. None of these issues happened before I had the PCM repaired...
 

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You can get Forscan for next to nothing (you need to buy an OBD adapter for it, but none of the code readers will monitor fuel pressure, as it's not reported to the PCM. If the check engine light was on there WILL be codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You can get Forscan for next to nothing (you need to buy an OBD adapter for it, but none of the code readers will monitor fuel pressure, as it's not reported to the PCM. If the check engine light was on there WILL be codes.
I downloaded Forscan but it says my OBD2 bluetooth adapter is a bad clone and won't work with it. any idea where to find one it will work with? Mine looks like the following:
159683
 
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