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One of the best Mods I ever did was wrapping the entire exhaust from the down-pipe to the tip of the exhaust, including the round straight through muffler. I bought my system back in 2000, a Magnaflow 304 Stainless with the polished 5" tip. It was Dennis first exhaust order at ITP Diesel, now Sinister Diesel. They did not make an exhaust system for the vans back then, only the Pick-Up trucks. So when I ordered the system Dennis looked it up and noticed the price was the same for all the options. So I ordered the 8' bed Crew Cab because it gave me more than 4-5 extra feet of straight 4" pipe. As you see in the photo the pipe fits perfect over the rear axle. I also had to
use the extra stainless hang brackets to tack weld for the van rubber-donut fitting locations.

The rear Aux fuel tank is a 27 Gal. Transfer-flow that gives me a 62 gallon set-up. As the fuel goes down the Trax II computer transfers the fuel into the main tank keeping them even until the last 7 gallons. If the main tank goes below 7 gallons the rear Aux tank will then transfer into the main tank. They only offered these tanks for the extended body. Notice how transfer-flow notched the tank for the tail pipe to travel up and down. never a problem in 20 years. After my shop installed the new 4" Magnaflow I drove it home. I could hear a drone from the turbo spool-up. So I knew there was only one more thing to do, wrap the entire system with 2" Heat Tape. I used the more expensive Thermo-Tec 2" heat tape, it's a little thicker than the China made tapes and made in the USA. Some NASCAR Teams uses Thermo-Tec. The China made 2" tape is good also and now it's even better. ( LEDAUT brand )

I would buy the tan (titanium) colored tape, this way if you ever get an exhaust leak you will see the heat tape with black soot leaking. Using the black colored heat tape it's very hard to see the leak. LEDAUT 2" x 50' Titanium Exhaust Heat Wrap is a good choice. I used this tape to wrap my two up-pipes. That really made the doghouse quiet. The instructions say to wrap the tape with a 1/4" lap. Not good, I learned from a NASCAR Tech and everyone wraps the tape 1" over 1" or half way as you wrap the pipe. I think it was three 50 foot rolls to do the entire system. Buy a bag of 100 stainless snap-off clamp straps so you can clamp it well. Use rubber or nitrile gloves so you don't get fiberglass splinters in your hands. Cut a string about 20 feet long, use the string to wrap around the pipe using the same 1" lap as you wrap it. Now you will know what length to cut the heat tape for that section. Soak the heat tape in warm water for about 20 minutes, this way you can wrap it tight. It will dry right away after you run the engine for a while. The down-pipe is easier if you wrap it before you install the new exhaust. Just cut shorter pieces to make it easier to wrap the DP., like 6-8 feet to start from the turbo down.,

Wrap your muffler , round or oval because it's well worth it.

If you have an aluminized exhaust, wrapping the system will keep the road salt off the pipes and make it last longer for sure. Every year you can get a can of high heat silicone spray (for headers) and spray the wrapped system. The water will just bead off the wrapped tape job. Where there is muffler clamps, wrap the tape the best you can over the clamps. 4" Band clamps may be a cleaner job than the standard clamps.

Try to install the up-pipes tight and uniform, it's the hardest part. If you ever go to replace the up-pipes wrap them first it's much easier on your lap to wrap, then install.

My van has Dynamat Extreme on the interior and the floor. the floor has a carpet pad then a medium carpet, combined with the wrapped exhaust it's very quiet inside the van. I double wrapped the doghouse too.

If you have a drone and it gives you headaches, here is your solution. I remember back in 2000-2001 people were installing a section of 4"metal flex-pipe in the exhaust to try and rid the drone. The flex pipe did nothing for the sound issue. This is a 20 year review how nice the exhaust and wrapped system has worked.

I have the Mag Hytec cover on the Dana 60, I run Amsoil synth in it and the trans w/Mag Hytec trans pan.
I installed a Sonax valve and trimmulator springs in the valve body back in 2001 and the trans shifts and locks-up like a pro. Good mod for the 4r100.
When you go to service the rear end, it's best to remove the cover and clean the bottom of the diff. Get a new O-Ring from Mag Hytec to insure you will have a leak free system. They will get flat and still may work. A new O-ring is always good insurance..

Next cool mod, buy a Hour meter for your rig to keep track of the total hours and minutes. This one is good because it rolls-over at 100,000 hours. The 4 digit models roll-over at 10,000 hours. ebay number ( 274638690083 ) for 12.00 shipped you can't beat it. Connect to the ignition, under the hood, in a pod or in the glove box. I have two van Duel Pods on the A-Pillar, Hour Meter at the top, trans, pyro and boost at the bottom. I put the hour meter at the top of the 4 gauges because it does not light-up to distract while driving at night. When you do your fluid changes log the miles and hour/minutes on the meter each time in your maintenance log book. Same for the trans, PS, and rear end fluids.

I recently lost my A/C, the cold is out the windshield vents. So before I do the vac hose mod, I'm going to install a new Motorcraft Vac Pump and see if that does the trick. My brakes feel a little weak so I believe it's the Vac pump.

About to remove the rear trailer hitch, sand blast it and Raptor coat the hitch. I'm also going to Raptor coat the bottom of the van on the under belly, the wheel wells etc. It's still very clean on the bottom and the Raptor coating will really protect the body. I will have the men wrap the rear end, the driveshaft, shocks , drop the rear tank and do it right. If you ever use the raptor coatings, be sure to shake the containers in a paint shaker to mix it properly. You can go to home depot and have them use the 1 gallon paint shakers to do it for you before you go to spray.
It will never be the best job if you just shake the can by hand. That stuff is so thick.

Ever seen the International CPS Air Gap tool? It measures the air gap from the CPS to the timing gear.
The old, original CPS units are the best for sure. The new CPS units have a shorter body that goes in the block, and this makes the air gap way too big. The CPS is fighting to get the magnetic hall sensor to count the teeth in the timing wheel. Not only are the new Ford & IH CPS short bodied, they also have a 3/32" piece of plastic covering the hall sensor causing false readings to the PCM. The old original black CPS has the hall sensor exposed and centered and is the correct length. The other International 466 engine has a CPS that came with a shim kit, and the 466 was designed for the shim kit. The original T444E 7.3L CPS was designed for plug and use, no shims. The CPS Meter shows a red and blue calibration cup(s), one for each engine type. On the end of the meter that black tip is spring loaded and pushes in and out against the timing gear to measure the air gap once you zero the meter at calibration. I know of another guy who pulls sleds who has one of these meters. They don't make them anymore. FYI, the Borg Warner, NAPA and Echelon CPS have the longer body to get the correct air gap and they also have the larger centered hall sensor with just a 1/16" plastic end cap over the hall sensor. So it's really a better design for the T444E 7.3L.

In the below pic, when you push the blue calibration cup all the way, the meter will be zero'ed.
The Blue is for the T444E. .025 or 1/4" is the calibrated air gap for the 7.3L. If you have AE Software you can
add shims one at a time to see if it gets better. But the new Ford (Gray) and International (Blue-purple) are too short, the air gap is about 3/8". The larger air gap is why many people have high EGT's and skipping issues.
Get a NAPA, BW or Echelin CPS and hold it next to a shorter body Ford or IH CPS. I will use a digital caliper so I can get a good read to measure the body length for you all. Will take a few days. Many of the Gray CPS on ebay are China copies, real Motorcraft CPS (Gray) don't come with a shim kit for the 7.3L.

This meter head swivels so you can read it from the left side. The o-ring prevents the 10MM bolt from falling out while you try to install it. These meters were about 750.00 retail new back in 2000. I got mine used. The 466 engines really need the meter, the 7.3L not so much if you have the correct length CPS body. So when you install the meter and the meter goes to zero, that is your T444E .025 air gap. Dielectric grease on the o-ring when you install the CPS, 18 ft. lbs. is the spec. A 1/4" ratchet with a 3" extension and a 10MM Deep Socket will give you a quicker install. Put a small rare earth magnet on the socket and it will hold the 10MM Bolt in the socket as you try to hand thread it in a little first. I see many struggle with this install using large 3/8" ratchets and longer extensions. Keep the small 1/4" set in your rig with your spare. Remember to wipe the inside of the hole with a clean towel before you install the new CPS. The Dielectric grease on the o-ring helps make a good seal, so no water gets in if you ever get into deep water. I take it off first and grease the o-ring. Then slide it back on the CPS. Add a little more Dielectric grease on the o-ring so it slides in easy. Clean the surround well, no cross-contamination in the hole.

2" Heat tape on the exhaust? Absolutely.

This thread got much longer than I planned, but some good trial and error findings.

Many thanks to the Mods & Members here over the years. I learned so much.






 

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Wow, a 20-year report, and what a great one. Thanks!

It's hard to get folks to report the results of their problem-solving, but this takes the cake!
 

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I've never had the chance to do it myself, but your original posts about this way back when still come to my mind whenever I think about it! Great to know it's worked so well.
 
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