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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I pulled my 2000 f-350 in my garage 2 weeks ago. It was running fine. Went out to use it and it won’t start. It cranks fine but will not even hit a lick . I thought I would see what you guys thought before I check it out. I was thinking crank or cam sensor. Any ideals?
Thanks Eric
 

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Never a bad place to start. Do you have any type of scanner?


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Did you happen to check the voltage after it sat for a couple weeks?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had to charge my batteries they ran down. There about 3 yrs old. After I got them charged I cranked and cranked won’t hit a lick.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My tachometer is moving when I crank it so that rules out a crankshaft sensor doesn’t it.
 

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What lights on the instrument panel light up when you turn the key on?
Have you checked all the fuses?
Can you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key on?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes the fuel pump is running. Water in fuel comes on but goes off when you crank. All the regular ones come on battery oil etc. the funny thing it won’t even attempt to start.
 

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Does the wait to start light come on check your oil level check for fuel in the bowl. See what your icp and ipr value are wile cranking.


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Discussion Starter #10
Update
I have plenty of oil in the engine there is fuel in the bowl and doesn’t look like any water. I plugged up my block heater for 3 hrs. Still won’t start it acts like it isn’t getting any diesel. I hooked my code reader to it I have a Autel code reader and it’s says no codes are present. I am thinking the IPR valve or the HPOP. Wouldn’t it be throwing a code if the IPR was bad?? What is a good code reader for a 7.3 liter? Any help would be appreciated Eric
 

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Check to see if the coil on the IPR has fallen off. If so, it won't build any HP oil pressure and the PCM won't know that the IPR isn't actually doing anything, just that there's no HP oil pressure sensed by the ICP sensor.
AutoEnguinity is a good tool to have. If your code reader can be set up to monitor parameters (AutoEnginuity can), look at ICP, IPR Duty Cycle, Engine RPM, Battery voltage and Injector Pulse Width while cranking. Post what you find out on those parameters
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The coil is still on the IPR. I’m going to go ahead and replace the IPR the Icp and the camshaft sensor. There is some oil on the icp connector. My tach is moving when I crank it but you can find everything on amazon pretty cheap.
 

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I’m going to go ahead and replace the IPR the Icp and the camshaft sensor. There is some oil on the icp connector. My tach is moving when I crank it but you can find everything on amazon pretty cheap.
OK, but you'll probably spend as much as you would on AutoEnginuity, which you would then have to use forever to find the ACTUAL problem. Although oil on the ICP connector is a sign that it either is or will soon be unserviceable.
Some guys have had issues with cheapo IPRs, so be aware that they might not be the best value.
 

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Make sure your batteries are fully charged in the meantime. Low batteries and a failing starter can draw so many amps the injectors don't fire properly.
DENNY

EDIT; OOPS missed that you charged batteries, check the fuze for the fuel heater in the fuel bowl.
 

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The coil is still on the IPR. I’m going to go ahead and replace the IPR the Icp and the camshaft sensor. There is some oil on the icp connector. My tach is moving when I crank it but you can find everything on amazon pretty cheap.
I hope you are purchasing genuine Motorcraft parts.

The CPS is worth buying since everyone should have a spare in the glove box with a 10-mm wrench.

If your ICP has oil sheen in pigtail then thats also a good purchase.

But buying a new IPR is just throwing money at a problem and we have seen this approach get quite expensive for new members.

Buying non-Motorcraft/IH parts is not a good deal even if they were free.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I understand guys yes these parts are motorcraft. I was amazed how much cheaper they were on amazon versus a parts store. So Auto ingenuity would be the best scan tool. I am going to pick one up.
Yes the batteries are fully charged. I haven’t checked the fuse for the bowl heater I’ll do that. Thanks for the advice everybody. This is the first time I had any trouble with ole blue lol.
Eric
 

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You may want to confirm with the Amazon Seller that their Motorcraft parts are honored by the Ford 2-year warranty.

If they are only a reseller and the parts are not warrantied by Ford, then its a risk.

Look at Autonation Ford- White Bear Lake for inexpensive Motorcraft parts.Several of us rely on them and they are warrantied.
 

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I understand guys yes these parts are motorcraft. I was amazed how much cheaper they were on amazon versus a parts store. So Auto ingenuity would be the best scan tool. I am going to pick one up.
Yes the batteries are fully charged. I haven’t checked the fuse for the bowl heater I’ll do that. Thanks for the advice everybody. This is the first time I had any trouble with ole blue lol.
Eric
Any update on this issue ? I’m having the same problem on my 99.5 7.3 and I suspect ethier IPR or Hpop
 

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Any update on this issue ? I’m having the same problem on my 99.5 7.3 and I suspect ethier IPR or Hpop
I can just about guarantee that it's NOT the HPOP.
You need to pull codes as a first step.
 
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