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I've tried searching through posts to see if it's already been answered and I don't see it so here goes. I just had a safety inspection done at my dealer and they say that I need to spend $900 to replace all 4 ball joints on my 2000 F350 V10 in order to pass inspection.

I've got a whopping 55k miles on it. Doesn't seem right so soon. I'm okay with a wrench and wondered if this is something that I could do or is it best left to the professionals? Does it require special tools? What steps are involved?

Any information would be appreciated. Sorry if this has already been answered somewhere else.
 

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If you are not gonna do it yourself I would say find another shop in the area that does that kind of work.

Out of lazyness I had a local shop do my ball joints for 275 a side including parts. They did a good job. The joints they put back in were the top line ones from NAPA and have grease zerks in them.

Looking back on it I wish I would have just rented the pressing tools and done it myself though.
 

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steveo,

Is this on a 4x4 or 4x2? I have never heard of a safety inspection failing a vehicle for worn balljoints. If you are in a pinch I am sure you could take it somewhere else besides the dealer and it would pass, as long as the tires are decent and it stops fine. I am not saying they aren't worn as balljoints seem to be a popular wear item on our trucks.

BTW, I am sure the dealer will be installing the OE non-greaseables, another reason to take it somewhere else. Or just do it yourself. If it is a 4x4 be ready for other surprises, like worn U joints, axle tube seals and more.....
 

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Not to bad, I did it myself in a weekend, took my time. No real problems like you'll read about (at least for me...) You can get alot of help on how to do right here! Without this web site... it wouldn't have been as easy...

The key is a seal install tool (I did the homemade one and it worked just fine). I also bit the bullet and bought the master balljoint press kit at Harbor freight for $100 and the press it's self for about $50 but the really helped. You can also just borrow them from places like AutoZone. But I never pass up a chance\any kind of reason to buy more tools /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

cadd
 

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[ QUOTE ]
steveo,

Is this on a 4x4 or 4x2? I have never heard of a safety inspection failing a vehicle for worn balljoints. If you are in a pinch I am sure you could take it somewhere else besides the dealer and it would pass, as long as the tires are decent and it stops fine. I am not saying they aren't worn as balljoints seem to be a popular wear item on our trucks.

BTW, I am sure the dealer will be installing the OE non-greaseables, another reason to take it somewhere else. Or just do it yourself. If it is a 4x4 be ready for other surprises, like worn U joints, axle tube seals and more.....

[/ QUOTE ]

Depends on what state he is in. In VA our yearly state inspection is a Safety inspection and bad ball joints does fail the automobile.
 

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Depends on what state he is in. In VA our yearly state inspection is a Safety inspection and bad ball joints does fail the automobile.

[/ QUOTE ]


Same here in Maine I've had trucks fail for alot less, like small oil leaks and axle/u-joints
 

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My 2000 f-250 psd 4x2 with 165k flunked a missouri state saftey inspection tonight too and I got home and started reading my chilton 1999-02 repair manual./per section 10-7 "the balljoints on 2wd models are not replacable" WHAT DO I DO NOW!!! hydroboost is leaking per the guy who passed it last year with no muffler and now he wants to sell me a muffler to pass it Oh and I need shocks too Grrrrrrrr

Merry Christmas
 

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Sounds like a misprint. I know that I replaced the ball joints in my son's 1999 PSD 2WD truck. They are easier than the 4WD since you don't have the hub, axle shaft and hub seal to deal with.

John /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

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Thanks John
Okay so I got it to pass inspection (wink wink) so I can renew my plates. Now how do I determine that the ball joints are realy bad in my garage without special tools like an aligment rack (I realy do want to fix it right) and I've determined that a 2wd has "Twin I Beam" front end right, where do I go from here? I hope Chilton's lied!
 

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Trust me, if you have STOCK balljoints, they are bad from the factory!

Mine were toast at 20,000 miles. I have 75k now on them and the truck wanders like a drunken sailor in a red light district. I really need to get mine done.

I've already done the dynatrack conversion on mine to get rid of the unit bearings, so all I gotta do is unbolt the 4 knuckle nuts and slide the whole hub and axle out as one piece. No more hub seal to worry about!
 

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I read that non-replaceable thing too.

Replaced them all on my 2000 2WD a couple of months ago. Parts directly from O'Reilly's and NAPA. A lot easier and faster than the 4WD joints.

Mo
 

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I'm about to do all 4 on my 2WD. Can it can be done without removing the hub and rotor? I know it would be heavy, but would anything get in the way. Seems that all I need to do is move the caliper, disconect the steering arm, and pull the knuckle off.
Piece of cake, right? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
 
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