[TimHixson]

2001 7.3 quit while driving *FIXED AND RUNNING*

This is the third time in a year.

First time was the cam sensor. There are now two spares in the glove box.

Second time was about a month ago. It would randomly quit, and it ended up being the superchip add on thingy. It was only a burned type chip plugged in to the computer and had been there since new. I took it off and had no more problems til yesterday.

I was driving along about 45mph and it started missing out like it was shorting out for about 15 seconds. It then quit completely and will not restart. I have tried both of my other cam sensors. The fuel bowl is full and pours fuel out if you put the cover back on without the seal. (stop laughing)

I have been searching here and ford-trucks for hours and decided to start a new thread.

The wait to start light does its thing. It cranks like crazy but will not start. It has new batteries. It got a new ICP when I was guessing at things when the chip went bad. The check engine light is not on.

Where do I start diagnosing this thing?

Both the engine and Hpop are full of fresh oil.

It has a new fuel filter a month ago.

​

 

[donmike]

I had a problem awhile back with my Thottle Possition Sensor TPS, Its locate on the gas pedal arm. It should here an audible click when you press on it. If you do need a new one just get the sensor and not the whole assmbly as this is very expensive. My symptoms were that the truck would just die or go to idel when I was going down the road. I aslo had another issue with my turck when I first bought it used. It died completey on me one day and wouldnt start a cranked and cranked check everything. Dealer looked at it and couldnt figure it out. I happen to check the main wirring block at the fuse panel and found a loose wire after wiggling the various circuts. The orignial owner must have had a aftermarkket attachment and lossened the wiring block. Well just my two cents hope it works out for ya.

 

[TimHixson]

Thanks I have been searching all day (while at work). I have been copying and pasting ideas and info into a word document so I can print it and take it with me to the truck which is at home now.

 

[02Boathauler]

Where did you get just the sensor?

Thanks
Keith

 

[TimHixson]

Where did you get just the sensor?

Thanks
Keith

Which sensor are you asking about?

 

[powerdome]

I had the EXACT same thing happen to me, and i have the superchips 1705

Turned out being the IDM in the driver fenderwell bit the dust.

If that turns out being it make sure they seal the box up really good, they didnt do mine very well at all, now every time i drive in the rain/slush it quits on me due to poor seal on the IDM. Im getting that fixed asap

 

[TimHixson]

I had the EXACT same thing happen to me, and i have the superchips 1705

Turned out being the IDM in the driver fenderwell bit the dust.

If that turns out being it make sure they seal the box up really good, they didnt do mine very well at all, now every time i drive in the rain/slush it quits on me due to poor seal on the IDM. Im getting that fixed asap

That sounds like it mught be it, but I do not want to just throw parts at it. Is there a way to test it?

 

[powerdome]

Not really, a code reader can tell you what codes are present in the computer, they dont dig into the brain on the IDM at all, only way to test it that i know of is to replace it, and if the truck fires up thats your problem.

Either the IDM works, or it dont not much of a way to test it that i am away or.

Good luck! you should be able to find a used IDM, a factory IDM from ford runs very expensive, 800$-1K expensive

 

[JimTJr]

IPR? Have you checked the ICP while cranking? You really need someone with AutoEnginuity or a good Snap On scanner. You can monitor ICP while cranking the motor, should be 450 lbs or so. Your IPR may be stuck wide open, and if that's the case it won't let it build any pressure and the injectors won't fire. The fact that it stumbled some, and died while driving. Makes me think HPOP or fuel related. You seem to have good fuel pressure, if it showers the underside without the seal. (Good way to clean the motor, huh?)

Did/do you have a check engine light? IF so, codes are a must for us to help you more. (IPR may not set a code, IDM WOULD most likely have one. (Also if you have an IDM code, it still could be wireing, and not the IDM itself.)

 

[TimHixson]

The check engine light never went on. When it was studdering, it acted like an electrical short. I have a friend that owns a repair shop. I should be able to get a scan tool from him to check the ICP. He has a 7.3 truck also so I will have him show me how to get to that reading of the ICP sensor before I borrow the scan tool.

Is there anything electrical that fires the injectors like on a gas motor? I could check that with a noid if it does.

 

[TimHixson]

Can someone post a picture of the wiring harness that rubs on the valve cover on some trucks? I want to check that also.

 

[TimHixson]

OK, If it is one of the under valve cover wire harnesses, then the truck will run rough, but still run correct? Since mine quit while running fine, then I think it must me the IDM or the IPR at this point. I am going to try to scan it tonight.

 

[TimHixson]

I scanned it. It made 1700+ psi while cranking and threw code 1668. Looks like the IDM is bad. Got one comming out of an 02 truck tomorrow for $175.

 

[klhansen]

Not really, a code reader can tell you what codes are present in the computer, they dont dig into the brain on the IDM at all, only way to test it that i know of is to replace it, and if the truck fires up thats your problem.

WRONG, WRONG, WRONG!!!!

A scan tool will INDEED tell you if something is up with the IDM, the only caveat is that it needs to be a PSD capable scan tool.

Tim,
Hope that the new IDM fixes your problem. Notice below (from the Service CD) that none of the causes say BAD IDM, unless you also have P1298. Drilling down some of the other pinpoint tests do get you to "replace IDM" eventually, but they're a long way down.

The fact that you had trouble with a chip installed, may mean that your PCM is toast instead of the IDM.

FJ1 DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) P1670 and P1668
DTC P1668 and P1670 indicates that a communication error has occurred between the PCM and the IDM.
Possible causes:
-- Open fuse
-- IDM relay
-- Open or shorted IDM enable circuit
-- Open/short in EF circuit
-- Open/short in FDCS circuit
-- IDM powering circuits
-- PCM
Check for other codes.
Key on, engine off.
Perform KOEO On-Demand Self Test and retrieve Continuous DTCs.
Was DTC P1668 present?
Yes
If DTC P1668 is present, GO to «FJ2».
No
If DTCs P1667 and P1663 are set together with or without DTC P1668, GO to «FJ6».
If DTC P1298 is also present, REPLACE the IDM.
If DTC P1667 is also present, GO to «KA1».
If DTC P1663 is also present, GO to «KF1».
If DTC P1662 is also present, GO to «NC1».
If P1670 was set without any other DTC, GO to «FJ10».

 

[TimHixson]

WRONG, WRONG, WRONG!!!!

A scan tool will INDEED tell you if something is up with the IDM, the only caveat is that it needs to be a PSD capable scan tool.

Tim,
Hope that the new IDM fixes your problem. Notice below (from the Service CD) that none of the causes say BAD IDM, unless you also have P1298. Drilling down some of the other pinpoint tests do get you to "replace IDM" eventually, but they're a long way down.

The fact that you had trouble with a chip installed, may mean that your PCM is toast instead of the IDM.

FJ1 DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) P1670 and P1668
DTC P1668 and P1670 indicates that a communication error has occurred between the PCM and the IDM.
Possible causes:
-- Open fuse
-- IDM relay
-- Open or shorted IDM enable circuit
-- Open/short in EF circuit
-- Open/short in FDCS circuit
-- IDM powering circuits
-- PCM
Check for other codes.
Key on, engine off.
Perform KOEO On-Demand Self Test and retrieve Continuous DTCs.
Was DTC P1668 present?
Yes
If DTC P1668 is present, GO to «FJ2».
No
If DTCs P1667 and P1663 are set together with or without DTC P1668, GO to «FJ6».
If DTC P1298 is also present, REPLACE the IDM.
If DTC P1667 is also present, GO to «KA1».
If DTC P1663 is also present, GO to «KF1».
If DTC P1662 is also present, GO to «NC1».
If P1670 was set without any other DTC, GO to «FJ10».

Thanks for the additional info. You may be correct, but I feel that I am at least in the correct area of the system. If the IDM does not fix it, then I will either keep it for future testing parts, or resell it.

 

[TimHixson]

The IDM fixed it. YAY! Taking out the plastic fender liner was a PIB but after getting that out it was easy to switch the IDM.

To summerize what happened. My truck was running perfect, driving along about 50 mph and it started missing out badly like someone was turning it on and off. After about 15 seconds it quit and would not restart.

I switched the cam sensor immediately - no fix
I checked the fuel filter bowl and it was full. Found out the fuel pump was fine as the filter bowl lid was not tight. poured fuel out like crazy with the key on.
Unplugged the Injector control presssure sensor - still no run.
Scanned the truck and found 1700+psi of oil to the fuel rails - and found code 1668.
Replaced Injector Driver Module and life is good.

 

[02Boathauler]

Sounds exactly like what I went through. Thanks for posting the fix. Where did you get and IDM for $175? I would carry a spare for that price.

 

[TimHixson]

Sounds exactly like what I went through. Thanks for posting the fix. Where did you get and IDM for $175? I would carry a spare for that price.

just the local junkyard. Car-part.com found it for me.

 

[paco3]

I had the same problem where my 2001 F250, it will stalled
and will not start, i had an oil leak in injector #8 and #5

 

[02Boathauler]

Awesome, I paid $350 to have mine over nighted.