The Diesel Stop banner
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for a place to start troubleshooting. Truck won’t start after doing the repairs below.

I replaced the EX manifolds, up pipes and deleted the EPBV. While I was in the engine bay I replaced the fuel feed lines to the cylinder heads and replaced the steel supply/return line assembly that runs behind the ALT bracket. The main lines were badly rusted and had a pinhole leak near the quick connects under the engine.

The manifolds bolts were so badly rusted only 2 out of 16 came out. Had to use a plasma cutter to melt the remaining bolts out of the manifold holes then pry the manifolds off the studs left behind. Had to TIG a nut onto each stud to extract. I have a combo TIG/plasma so that what I used.

Now It’s all back together, it’s doesn’t want to start. First try was last night, cycled the key about 10 times to bleed the fuel bowl. Tried cranking it about 8 times for about 20 seconds. I confirmed there is pressure in the fuel bowl.

I put the batteries on the charger, plugged in the block heater and called it a night. Now I’m worried I fried the ECU or IDM module with interference from the TIG/Plasma. The ground lead was always attached to the block as close as possible to the work. Hope I didn’t fry something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Looking for a place to start troubleshooting. Truck won’t start after doing the repairs below.

I replaced the EX manifolds, up pipes and deleted the EPBV. While I was in the engine bay I replaced the fuel feed lines to the cylinder heads and replaced the steel supply/return line assembly that runs behind the ALT bracket. The main lines were badly rusted and had a pinhole leak near the quick connects under the engine.

The manifolds bolts were so badly rusted only 2 out of 16 came out. Had to use a plasma cutter to melt the remaining bolts out of the manifold holes then pry the manifolds off the studs left behind. Had to TIG a nut onto each stud to extract. I have a combo TIG/plasma so that what I used.

Now It’s all back together, it’s doesn’t want to start. First try was last night, cycled the key about 10 times to bleed the fuel bowl. Tried cranking it about 8 times for about 20 seconds. I confirmed there is pressure in the fuel bowl.

I put the batteries on the charger, plugged in the block heater and called it a night. Now I’m worried I fried the ECU or IDM module with interference from the TIG/Plasma. The ground lead was always attached to the block as close as possible to the work. Hope I didn’t fry something.
If you know you have fuel, verify all your fuses are good. There is a possibility that you may have pinched a wire and blew a fuse. The is also a possibility that something got unplugged. Start with the simple stuff first and work your way up. Does it have a chip? If so, unplug it try to start it. Did you have the batteries disconnected when you did your TIG work? Some guys skip this step and never have issues. Some guys don't get so lucky. I recommend to always disconnect the batteries when doing any kind of welding. Cheap insurance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you know you have fuel, verify all your fuses are good. There is a possibility that you may have pinched a wire and blew a fuse. The is also a possibility that something got unplugged. Start with the simple stuff first and work your way up. Does it have a chip? If so, unplug it try to start it. Did you have the batteries disconnected when you did your TIG work? Some guys skip this step and never have issues. Some guys don't get so lucky. I recommend to always disconnect the batteries when doing any kind of welding. Cheap insurance.
So I read if the CPS is bad the tach won’t move when cranking….and it wasn’t. Had a spare in the glovebox, swapped it and she fired right up.
Strange thing was it ran when I parked it….
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top