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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So, I have searched for about a half hour with no definitive answers. How hard is it to remove the top of the engine wiring harness for a 2001 F250 Powerstroke? What all has to be done to pull it from the truck so I can repair it.

The reason it needs repair is because when I was diagnosing a 3# and #7 injector open code, I found this:



The insulation just crumbled as I was cleaning it, and I’m assuming it’s going to be easier to solder and heat shrink the connections on the table instead of hanging under the hood. I already bought a new connector from Guzzle's Diesel ORings, so it's just going to be a matter of keeping the wires in order as I clip and solder them.

Thanks
 

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It's not that hard to remove the harness, as long as your careful, do it slowly and label each connection as you remove them. When I replaced my motor last year, I also redid the harness by:

1. Disconnect the batteries, then remove the harness from the each connection, labelling them as you disconnect;, I used yellow electrical tape for this. Pull the whole thing off the engine (see pic).

2. remove all of the old plastic wire loom. As you said, a lot of it just fell apart.

3. thoroughly clean all the grease off of the wiring with solvent (I used mostly paint thinner)

4. rewrap the wires. You can get new plastic wire looms, but i used a combination of Braided electrical sleeving (I got on an assortment of sizes on ebay) covered with a product called "Nashua Stretch & Seal Self Fusing Silicone Tape", a self-fusing high heat (500 F) tape product I got at Home Depot (Google it!). You could probably just use the Stretch & Seal by itself for a good covering, mine was a bit of overkill.

5. To protect the UVCH connectors from the problem you're showing in your picture, I used Liquid Electrical tape, also from Home Depot.

Very happy with my re-done wiring harness, although it was a lot of work and the Stretch & Seal is fairly expensive, about $7/roll and I used several rolls.

Hope that helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That does help, but I have a couple of other questions now. Mostly, what other parts have to come off the engine before I can remove the harness? Are there any spots I should be careful of when I go to pull the harness from the engine?

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That part is a little harder for me to remember, and I removed my harness from an engine that was out of the truck!

I'm pretty sure you need to remove the intake spider, and maybe the CAC tube on the driver side. Removing the bracket that holds the GPR and AIH relay, will also make it easier I believe, but beyond those, you'll just have to get in there and see what's in your way. Shouldnt have to remove anything difficult, like the turbo.
 

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So, I have searched for about a half hour with no definitive answers. How hard is it to remove the top of the engine wiring harness for a 2001 F250 Powerstroke? What all has to be done to pull it from the truck so I can repair it.

The reason it needs repair is because when I was diagnosing a 3# and #7 injector open code, I found this:



The insulation just crumbled as I was cleaning it, and I’m assuming it’s going to be easier to solder and heat shrink the connections on the table instead of hanging under the hood. I already bought a new connector from Guzzle's Diesel ORings, so it's just going to be a matter of keeping the wires in order as I clip and solder them.

Thanks
Is this one of your UVCH connectors?
 

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That tiny little bit of damage threw a code? :)

That connector with about 6 inches of wire is available on its own as a repair part. If that's the only problem, that may be the way to go. Ford P/N is 7U2Z-14S411-AA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is the main engine harness to the VC connector. Not the UVC connector. I already bought the repair part, just need to pull the harness to do the repair on the bench instead of trying to solder the wires in order while laying across the front of the truck. I'll also get a chance to inspect the rest of the harness and clean it up.

I figured the drivers side CAC pipe was going to have to come off, was hoping the spider didn't, but I guess it'll give me the chance to clean the valley, it's a filthy mess. I plan to pull the driver's VC to replace the glow plugs and re-route the CCV since the previous owner removed the connection to the intake pipe and it just sprays oil residue all over the valve cover and CAC pipe now.

Thanks
 
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