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How much end play are you seeing? The outer portion axle is held in place in the hub unit with a snap ring and has an inner plastic thrust washer, and three washers on the outside behind the snap ring. It might have a little end play - maybe 1/16", but more would indicate a problem with it.
 

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Movement is less than 1/4 inch
Probably not critical, but I would pull the hub unit off and make sure that the thrust washers I mentioned are in place. I've seen a couple instances where the larger inboard plastic washer was gone. Replacements are available if needed.
 

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Are you using auto hubs with vacuum to engage or manually locking the hubs into 4WD? Curious as the large washer with the four slots on the backside of the hub is for the vacuum engagement and wondering if it’s still working.

Also, every write up I found on replacing the front 4WD hubs/washers said it didn’t look like there is enough room for the washers and to be able to insert the clip into the groove, but to keep working at it and it will in fact go.......which just goes to show how tight the clearance is when everything is new. I barely had enough clearance for mine to snap into the groove, and had to make several attempts on each side getting everything “just right”.
 

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Also, every write up I found on replacing the front 4WD hubs/washers said it didn’t look like there is enough room for the washers and to be able to insert the clip into the groove, but to keep working at it and it will in fact go.......which just goes to show how tight the clearance is when everything is new. I barely had enough clearance for mine to snap into the groove, and had to make several attempts on each side getting everything “just right”.
The only time I've seen an issue with that is when a buddy (who shall remain anonymous :winking:) had put the big plastic washer on backwards. It can only go one way, with the chamfer on the inner hole toward the u-joint. Once we turned it around, the snap ring went right on.
 

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Is there an axle seal or dust seal that must be replaced?
If you're working on the axle u-joints, then you should also replace both seals on either side of the u-joints. If you're leaving the axle in place and just redoing the thrust washers, you don't need to worry about seals. With manual hubs they aren't as critical as with vacuum operated hubs. I've pulled the axle shafts before without replacing the seals.

PN's should be National 710413 for the inner seal, which is really just a dust barrier, and National 710493 for the larger outer seal. I would confirm the PN's with your supplier to be sure they fit.
You'll need a seal driver for the large outer seal, which you can make from a piece of 1-1/4 inch pipe, a pipe flange and cap. The flange diameter will need to be reduced a bit to fit the seal. Or you might be able to buy/rent the special tool from your parts store.
 

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klhansen; You'll need a seal driver for the large outer seal said:
Here is just one example of the “tool” available on line. It not only installs the seal onto the outer shaft without damaging the seal but also sets the seal/axle to the correct depth inside the knuckle.

https://www.amazon.com/Shaft-Installer-Knuckle-Vacuum-1998-2004/dp/B07PQF4RYZ[/url]

Also, you need to update your profile to add where you live, maybe someone lives nearby that could loan you one, I have two (due to a seller/delivery mistake)
 

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Tool shown in picture:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I replaced both seals, ujoints and ball joints. Using the tool I destroyed 1 seal the big one. It didn’t push the seal far enough
 

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I just ordered the new parts you linked on amazon. I have the manual locking hubs
IMG_1748.PNG
Just for future reference, I believe the hub in your photo would be considered the Ford automatic or auto locking hub or vacuum operated hub.
The alternative manual locking hub would be a design that does not allow the option of remaining in the cab. It requires getting out of the vehicle every time. A popular example would be the Warn hub pictured below.

IMG_1747.PNG
 

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I replaced both seals, ujoints and ball joints. Using the tool I destroyed 1 seal the big one. It didn’t push the seal far enough
If you were using the store bought seal/axle installing tool I’m surprised you damaged it. The tool is made with machined steps where a great amount of force can be used to push it all the way on without deforming it. While a hydraulic press is ideal a large hammer can be used.
I used a large BFH and really pounded the seal onto the shaft while in the vice with no damage to the seal— the inside bore of the seal had a Teflon like coating- and took a lot of persuading. Then the same tool is then used to set the axle into the knuckle at the correct depth so that the thrust washers and snap clip will all fit. Have you gotten it all back together and running?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes all back together including inboard thrust washer and 3 other washers plus retainer clip. When I removed the hub, the seal was deeper than the depth the tool would drive it to. On the old seal, the seal and inside flange surface of the hub were same depth. Not now, the seal surface is slightly above the flange of the center of the shaft.
 

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Glad you got it figured out. IIRC my axle had a machined step that the seal bottomed out against when driven all the way on.
 
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