[stp715a]

Hi. Have read other related posts and tried the advice but cannot get the engine to start. Appreciate everyone's posts and would really appreciate some advice.

Engine stopped midway through a 200 mi trip. Would start rarely but a few times started when warm but only ran a few minutes. Towed home and now no start and no smoke. Am a weekend mechanic. More of a electronics guy and have the tools and experience to repair circuit boards.

• Engine cranks over.
• HPOP has oil within 1" of top. No HPOP leaks.
• Fuel pump runs and fills fuel filter bowl.
• Fuel filter is new. Changed filter when checking to see bowl fill by pump.
• Batteries are charged and less than 1 yr old
• GPR test good
• Tach does not move when cranking. WTS DOES light every time.
• CPS was replaced by Ford on recall 6 months ago.

Do not have a high end code reader but have a dashcommand which provides limited but some information. The data it provides is in the context of the PIDs interpreted by a set of dashes I am using. The interpretation of the pids was done by user rallyclimber at iPhone and Dashcommand with my 02 7.3 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums.

When cranking the dash command provides these measurements:

• EOT=59F
• IAT=56F
• IMAT=106F
• EBP=14PSI
• TFT=57F
• ICP=2000PSI while cranking and 222PSI with key in ignition after cranking stops.
• GPR=98.83 (not sure what this number represents but the GP side of the GPR terminal reads ~.75 volts less than the hot side of the GPR.
• MAP=99 kPa

Check engine light does not come on and the dash command does not read any codes even though it has a limited capability. All fuses test OK.

Appreciate any suggestions on where to look next.

Thanks

 

[Gator5713]

Probably the cps. The ford replacement isn't great to start with and could have gone bad already.
The tach not moving also points towards the cps. Someone more knowledgeable I'm sure will chime in and confirm or give you someplace else to look.

 

[klhansen]

Probably the cps. The ford replacement isn't great to start with and could have gone bad already.
The tach not moving also points towards the cps. Someone more knowledgeable I'm sure will chime in and confirm or give you someplace else to look.

The tach not moving is only a good indicator on '99-01 trucks. Not conclusive on '02 and later.

You may have a biased ICP sensor if you get that high on cranking and still at 222 psi when not cranking. It should drop to near zero when not cranking. Try pulling the wiring connector off the ICP sensor and crank it again. It will light the SES and throw a code, but should start if the sensor is bad. What a biased sensor would do is cause the IPR to dump HP oil pressure (thinking it's too high) to a point where the injectors are only drooling fuel, and not spraying.

 

[stp715a]

Thanks for the super fast response.

After posting went out to truck. Ran code reader again. Truck tach does not move but dash command shows RPM during crank. Also, oil pressure gauge rises during crank. Now reading code P1280 which is the first time any codes have registered. Will try the starting with ICP removed but did that a few days ago and would not start. That could be because the GPR was intermit tingly not working. Works now but have ordered a new one.

The 222 psi is probably just the way dash command works when the key is turned off. I think it holds the last reading once the key is in off position. So the 2000 psi was dropping back when I cut the key off. I can let it drop before cutting key off and report back.It will not read anything or even connect to the OBD interface until the key is in the KOEO.

Does the ICP read and send the HPOP pressure psi back to the OBD interface?

Thanks for the help. Encouraged to have so many smart experienced folks here. Been a little discouraging trying to figure out why my so little used truck will not go.

 

[stp715a]

Pulled off ICP sensor

Pulled off ICP sensor. Cranked strong but no start, no smoke. Put sensor back. Strong crank but still no start or smoke. Did not clear code 1280. Should I suspect IDM or are there tests to eliminate it? It seems that something is stopping fuel from going to the injectors with the no smoke situation????

Been raining here 12 days straight. We're lucky with no major flooding unlike not too far from here. Wilmington starting flooding downtown today but not even close to Charleston or Columbia.

Calling it a night. Raining again. Will start on this again in the AM. Supposed to finally have sun. Not sure how the folks in Seattle put up with so little sun.

Thanks again.

 

[klhansen]

Follow the wiring connected to the ICP sensor back to a branch and then down into the engine valley toward the front on another branch. The lowest connector will be connected to the IPR. Check to be sure that the solenoid coil is still in place on the IPR, and the sheet metal nut is secured. If the nut is not on the stem or the coil has fallen off, then the HPOP can't develop pressure to operate the injectors.

The only way to test the IDM is to run an injector buzz test. But the IDM is one of the last things you should suspect.

 

[westvandude]

It's either dashcommand or scan gauge pro that has the injector buzz test. Try that too.

I have it on my samsung tablet. Works great.

 

[stp715a]

IPR sheet metal nut is secure.

 

[stp715a]

No iPhone apps will do buzz test. Car Gauge Pro for android will do a buzz test and for $15-25 all in if you have a droid device it is the cheapest way to do a buzz test. Do not have a droid device.

 

[MickeyAkr]

I know this is an old post but I’m having the same exact issue that you described, P1280 and my ICP is reading 3000+ psi. Did you ever figure out what the problem was?