The Diesel Stop banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I am new to the forum I just bought a 2003 F250 (auction) with 265xxx It has the 7.3L in it but per vin the truck should have the 6.0. when I bought the truck it was missing the battery's a few fuses and the glow plug relay I put the fuses back in and got 2 battery's for it, and new fuel filter. After plugging it in for a few hours it did start after cranking for a long time it blows a lot of white smoke before starting but it was missing really bad (see picture for codes) one of the codes it did have was the P1316 (Did injector buzz test see picture) so what I found on it was I pulled the valve covers and did the 50 cent trick. I then also at that time put in the glow plug relay. Now the truck will not start at all. but when you unhook the glow plug relay the truck tries to start and also still blows a lot of white smoke but today it did no start for me, could be to cold out to start without glow plugs. I then found after removing the valve covers again that the injectors where below spec so I installed the shim kit trying to save on putting all new injectors in the truck. But still having problems was wounding why it sounds different and will not start with glow plug relay out of the picture? Any help would be great. Thanks
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,235 Posts
It seems you know very little about this units history and likely bought it at auction non-running. Now it appears that you are making an assumption that the items missing are responsible for the non starting. Not critical just analytical. Check your blow by, individual cylinder contribution and test your glow plugs. Put a good glow plug relay in and check your fuel heater for grounding & blown fuse. Unplug the ICP so it will default and try it out. If it won't start plug it in for two hours then try it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,947 Posts
Are you plugging in the block heater to warm the engine before you try to start it?
DENNY
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes I did plug it in today (overnight) and with the temp outside today being about 60. It started up when I unhooked the glow plug relay but was misfiring really bad sounds like its running on 4 cyls. if you hook up the glow plug relay it helps it start but it will die a second or two after you let off the key.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,947 Posts
Check the harness at the valve covers might have a bad connection on one side
DENNY
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
26,377 Posts
What Denny said. Your passenger side bank has 3 cylinders that have injector wiring codes. Since you say that having the glow plug relay connected, you may have shorts between glow plug and injector wiring circuits that are causing problems. Check the condition of the wiring harnesses just outside the valve covers. The insulation may be dried up and flaking off or there was an issue that melted the insulation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the info. Sorry meant to post I did do the 50 cent fix to the truck and after the buzz test this is the code that come up. Also the P1316 code went away.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I also did this test pass everything per this TSB.
file:///C:/Users/PC/Downloads/GB_Tech_Bulletin_103_Ford%20IDM_Module_Replacement.pdf
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
26,377 Posts
You should still be getting the P1316, but maybe not if you did just a buzz test. That code means there's an open in the common wire (center of the 9 circuits going to the valve cover) on the right side bank. It could be anywhere between the under valve cover harness and the IDM, or it could be a problem with the IDM itself.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
26,377 Posts
The one I am getting is out of a 1997 That will work in this 2003 right just lower voltage?
Yes, it'll work fine.
I think you should clear codes and check again before swapping out the IDM. Is your truck running any better than it did since you fixed the UVCH connection? While you have the IDM disconnected, you should check continuity on the center circuit from the VC connector to the IDM to be sure the wiring is not the issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
After fixing the UVCH connection it still was the same very hard to start and misfiring. I did lose the codes I was getting when I did the buzz test (only P1293 come on now). I also checked the continuity of the wiring from the IDM to the VC everything checked out good per the TSB.

file:///C:/Users/PC/Downloads/GB_Tech_Bulletin_103_Ford%20IDM_Module_Replacement.pdf
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
26,377 Posts
Then it very well could be that your IDM has died (partially, there are circuits for each bank).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the help. I put the used 100 volt IDM on it and the truck fired right up no codes come on at this time and it is not misfiring. now I just need to put the valve covers back on. One more thing do you guys think I should find a 120 like what come off it or should I just leave the 100 on it? Thank again.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
26,377 Posts
You could do the Joe Servo mod (changing out a resistor) on the IDM100 and get about 135V from it. The IDM 100's are supposed to be a bit more sturdy than the IDM120. I have a modded IDM100 in my truck. Can't really tell the difference in the seat of the pants. You'll probably be fine with the IDM100 as is.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top