The Diesel Stop banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I've got a 2003 F350 with about 80k on it. The steering wheel has started shaking while braking. Are warped rotors the likely culprit? Is there something else I should be looking for? Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
Can you feel a pusation in the brake pedal when you apply the brakes?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
I had the same thing and this was with brand new rotors, had them turned down problem solved, I didnt have any brake pulsation though, Hope that helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Was the problem consistent? I've noticed for example that mine was worse yesterday. Today it's hardly been noticeable but then again, I've only just begun to notice it over the last few days. Those of you that have the same problem - once it started was it consistent and/or did it get progressively worse?

I've also heard that once the rotors are warped, getting them turned is relatively useless as they will begin to warp again quite quickly. I've read that replacing them is a better option. Any thoughts if this is truth or fiction? If true, any opinions on a better rotor?

Sorry for my ignorance on all this - I simply don't know what I don't know. You know?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,080 Posts
The trouble isn't really that your rotors are "warped," but that they have become of varying hardness around their circumference, which causes the pads to abrade them to varying thicknesses. This is caused by an occasional hard stop, which heats the rotors substantially, followed by the continued application of the brakes, which causes the heat to be trapped in the portion of the rotors that is under the pads, but allows the heat to dissipate from the rest of the rotors. You end up with slight variations in heat-treat. This is then followed by a driving style of light brake usage which is ineffectual at removing the high spots from the rotors.

As a first step, I would recommend that you try on your OEM rotors the bedding-in procedure for new aftermarket rotors. You'll need to find someplace out in the country with long, straight, low-traffic roads. The goal is to get them hot, and then let the heat dissipate evenly.

Get up to 60 mph, and then brake as hard as you can down to 5 mph. It's important that you don't come to a complete stop. Do this ten times in a row. Let the rotors cool by driving without braking for about 10 minutes. Repeat the series of panic stops and give them a second cooling period.

If the problem persists, I cured my brake problems completely by installing aftermarket ART rotors and PFC pads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks DarthSurplus,

I'll give it a try. It's supposed to be really cold here over the next week so I'll wait until the threat of black ice is gone. I'd hate to fix my brakes, only to trash the truck doing it. I put it in the ditch going backwards at 75mph (with a 24' trailer) last Feb. I don't want to repeat.

Thanks for the detailed response! :thumbsup:
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top