[Fivehat]

Hey Guys,

I've got a situation going on with my 2004 6.0 that I could use a bit of advice on...

Lately it's been blowing a lot of coolant from the degas bottle. I've been running Matt's SLR tune on it for years with no issues. Prior to running Matt's tune, I deleted my EGR delete and installed a new oil cooler.
I've owned the truck almost 7 years, and when I purchased it, it already had ARP studs installed. However, I do not know the history of the truck at all and don't know which brand head gasket was used.

I've had a constant 'heat' issue with it since I've owned it, in that the cab heat was very finicky, way more so than the new 2006 I recently purchased. I've read all the potential causes of loss of heat in the cab, and it didn't matter how long I ran my truck, how full my coolant level was, etc... it just wouldn't ever stay hot.

I digress, my issue is that I pressure tested my coolant system and my pressure climbs extremely fast! Just sitting at idle my gage jumps up to 21psi. No matter how hard or easy I drive it down the road, the pressure stays right there at the 20-21psi mark, never more, never less.

I suppose I'm bracing myself for the worst, but I just wanted to check in with anybody to see if there were any opinions.

I've read that a bad EGR can cause some of these symptoms, but I don't have one.
Possible air bubble in the coolant system? Seemed the only time I would get heat was when I was really pushing the RPM's, and then the heat would kick on. As soon as the RPM's came down, you could feel the heater vent start blowing cold air again. That too a possible symptom of blown head gasket?

I've even tried swapping degas caps, but to no avail...coolant starts steaming immediately out the cap, eventually spitting all over the engine.

As mentioned, I just purchased a mint 2006 6.0 with less than 40K miles, plus head gaskets were just done from dealership by previous owner a month ago, and let me tell you, it's been reeeeal nice having the heat function as it should, especially given the cold weather now (I'm in MA). Unfortunately, dealership would not install ARP studs at the time they did the new head gaskets, so that's something I'm going to have to address shortly.

Lastly, I took Matt's tune off and got it back to running stock with the hopes that the pressure wouldn't be as bad, thusly not blow so much coolant, but again, doing a coolant pressure test with a stock tune got me the same results...20PSI, steaming/spitting degas cap.

Anyway, any thoughts?
If it is head gaskets, how much will that run me just to do the heads, since everything else has been bulletproofed - even the water pump was just replaced with their bulletproof version.

Thanks fellas!

 

[BGilton79]

That's definitely a head gasket issue. The last 3 head gasket jobs I did the customers were looking for a permanent fix so I installed OE gaskets and O-ringed heads from UCF Machine in PA. The heads are 1995.00 if your old heads are rebuildable. Shop around for the gaskets but I would definitely use OE gaskets from Ford.

 

[Fivehat]

Thanks, I had my suspicions it was that. I'll look into the O-ringed heads you mentioned -never heard anybody mention that as an option in reading all the forum info on head issues. Is that something proprietary to that shop in PA? OE?
I should probably get the same for the 2006 before much longer.

Gonna be tough pill to swallow to have to drop $3-5K into a head job just to sell it!

 

[BGilton79]

There's a couple different companies offering o-ringed heads. I personally like UCF Machine shops products better. They are all around the same price. Some will say it's overkill but when I do heads gaskets on these engines I don't want them coming back for head gaskets ever again. Some confuse fire rings with o-rings. Fire rings are for race applications only were as o-rings are for everyday use.

 

[kninejk]

Hey Guys,

I've got a situation going on with my 2004 6.0 that I could use a bit of advice on...

Lately it's been blowing a lot of coolant from the degas bottle. I've been running Matt's SLR tune on it for years with no issues. Prior to running Matt's tune, I deleted my EGR delete and installed a new oil cooler.
I've owned the truck almost 7 years, and when I purchased it, it already had ARP studs installed. However, I do not know the history of the truck at all and don't know which brand head gasket was used.

I've had a constant 'heat' issue with it since I've owned it, in that the cab heat was very finicky, way more so than the new 2006 I recently purchased. I've read all the potential causes of loss of heat in the cab, and it didn't matter how long I ran my truck, how full my coolant level was, etc... it just wouldn't ever stay hot.

I digress, my issue is that I pressure tested my coolant system and my pressure climbs extremely fast! Just sitting at idle my gage jumps up to 21psi. No matter how hard or easy I drive it down the road, the pressure stays right there at the 20-21psi mark, never more, never less.

I suppose I'm bracing myself for the worst, but I just wanted to check in with anybody to see if there were any opinions.

I've read that a bad EGR can cause some of these symptoms, but I don't have one.
Possible air bubble in the coolant system? Seemed the only time I would get heat was when I was really pushing the RPM's, and then the heat would kick on. As soon as the RPM's came down, you could feel the heater vent start blowing cold air again. That too a possible symptom of blown head gasket?

I've even tried swapping degas caps, but to no avail...coolant starts steaming immediately out the cap, eventually spitting all over the engine.

As mentioned, I just purchased a mint 2006 6.0 with less than 40K miles, plus head gaskets were just done from dealership by previous owner a month ago, and let me tell you, it's been reeeeal nice having the heat function as it should, especially given the cold weather now (I'm in MA). Unfortunately, dealership would not install ARP studs at the time they did the new head gaskets, so that's something I'm going to have to address shortly.

Lastly, I took Matt's tune off and got it back to running stock with the hopes that the pressure wouldn't be as bad, thusly not blow so much coolant, but again, doing a coolant pressure test with a stock tune got me the same results...20PSI, steaming/spitting degas cap.

Anyway, any thoughts?
If it is head gaskets, how much will that run me just to do the heads, since everything else has been bulletproofed - even the water pump was just replaced with their bulletproof version.

Thanks fellas!

I can tell you that my own experience with this was that my EGR cooler was failing and finally did. The issues prior to the complete failure was the extra pressure in the gas bottle and cracking of the same.

 

[bobofthenorth]

That's no doubt helpful but the post you are replying to is 5 years old. ICBW but I expect the original problem has been resolved.

 

[DonWarkentin]

That's no doubt helpful but the post you are replying to is 5 years old. ICBW but I expect the original problem has been resolved.

Yes, the discussion starter, FiveHat, stated in a separate thread that he started in April 2017 that he had paid $6k to fix the heads.

According to his signature, he still had the truck as of November 2017, which was the last time that he has been seen on this forum.

5R110 Tranny Trouble

Outer Pinion Bearing Stuck to Pinion Gear - WILL NOT...

 

[kninejk]

That's no doubt helpful but the post you are replying to is 5 years old. ICBW but I expect the original problem has been resolved.

Yes sir, I see you are correct! Lol! I have not been on this site for quite some time and just happened upon the post and thought I would chime in but I realize I’m a bit late😋

 

[DonWarkentin]

No prob. The info that you shared may be very helpful to someone else who reads this thread.