Hi everyone, I'm new here. I recently upgraded to a f450 4x4 with manual trans. Had a '97 7.3 since it was new but unfortunately the NY salt finally killed the body. So I'm here in FL for the winter and bought this truck in good shape ( no rust) with 300k on it. During test drive and inspection the check engine light was on and some what under powered. I noticed when checking over the motor the boot on the hot side of turbo had a hole in it which would explain the low power. The owner said it had been get deleted and studded is why the engine light was on. I later also discovered the oil gauge wasn't working and could see oil coming out of the center of the oil pressure switch. So when I got it to my place I decided to change all the filters and oil, a new oil pressure sensor and both boots on the hot side of the turbo. When I had the boots off the turbo noticed play in the turbo ( enough so the blades were almost hitting the housing) so I rebuilt it. After I changed the filters and oil sensor but before I rebuilt the turbo and boots, I did start and run the motor for about 15 minutes and it ran fine other than the bad boot still low power. After rebuilding the turbo and new boots it wouldn't start. Upon checking things over I see that the IPR is unplugged. I finally get my hand down in there and find the pigtail is all brittle and fell apart. I put in a new IPR and pigtail not paying attention what way the wires went in relation to the plug. It wouldn't start so I switched the wires and still no start. Could I have fried something in the PCM or FICM? Is there a fuse for the IPR? At my wits end here and would greatly appreciate any help.
Jayflight60
When I did the air test with the valve cover off it sounded like the leak was in the stand pipe. Not sure I'm going to be able to remove the rail. I started to remove the hardest to reach bolts first and got the 2 by the evaporator ok but the very back bolt seems to be stripped. I tried a wood dowel to get the second half out to no avail. Taking a break for lunch then going to try again later. Thank you.
I had a hell of a time with that exact same standpipe. If its really stuck in there I know you don't want to hear this but you have to get that oil rail off or you're screwed. Good luck. Once you get the oil rail out of the way you'll have options. By "stripped" do you mean that the torx recess in the bolt head is buggered up?
Yes the torx head. I'm a little limited with tools to work with here, if I was home I would have some more options. Thinking seriously of having it towed to a shop and have them do it. Being retired budget is a little limited. Also would like to get it fixed so we could head back home me next week.
I know the feeling. When I get that way I try to ask myself whether I'm just feeling overwhelmed and not thinking straight or whether I'm likely to get more expert service at whatever shop I end up in. You seem pretty competent. Do you really think you are going to find a 6.0 expert who actually knows more than you do? Maybe it would be cheaper and faster to buy whatever tools you feel you are lacking. You can never have too many tools and he who dies with the most tools wins.
A Turbo Socket is your best bet... and the bolt will need to be replaced... obviously.
Example: https://www.toolsid.com/turbo-socke...RCcARIsAG3xzl9iMD55hwVg5gyb6_ttf55VrRwDMRwdhIe0Ub96HGxkV5VjKUm2pZYaApsEEALw_wcB
A set is necessary as you don't know exactly which size is going to bite. Gently tap one on to the fastener to bite on.
Example: https://www.toolsid.com/turbo-socke...RCcARIsAG3xzl9iMD55hwVg5gyb6_ttf55VrRwDMRwdhIe0Ub96HGxkV5VjKUm2pZYaApsEEALw_wcB
A set is necessary as you don't know exactly which size is going to bite. Gently tap one on to the fastener to bite on.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
