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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A few years ago I had an issue where the AC and environmental controls would lose power for a few minutes and then come back on.

Now, I am losing the entire dashboard power - speedometer, tach, power locks, etc for minutes at a time. Yesterday, it toggled off and on seven times in the course of 15 minutes. Other times it can go off for 10-20 minutes in one go.

It could be as simple as a failing relay or as serious as a wiring harness issue so I thought I would get a read from the collective wisdom of this forum.

Thanks!
 

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Have you checked the plugs on the top of the cluster to make sure they are plugged in tight?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Phil, I have not pulled the cluster yet as I was not sure where the connections were. I will give that a try ASAP.

Are there any tricks I should know about before I tackle removing the cluster?

Thanks!
 

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Its pretty straight forward. The easiest way I have found is:

Set the parking brake.

Tilt the steering wheel all the way down.

Turn the ign key on just far enough to unlock the shift lever (assuming it's auto) and pull the shifter down to the bottom.

I usually start at the pass side near the power port and pull the black bezel out using my finger tips in the seam. If it's never been off before you might want to use a plastic interior tool or something for some leverage because the clips will still have a lot of spring to them.

After it starts pulling out, you can reach around behind and start unplugging everything working your way towards the steering wheel or try to pull the bezel all the way off the dash then start unplugging, your choice.

Once enough stuff with short leads has been unplugged to allow you to lay the guage opening of the bezel over the top of the steering wheel, that helps with the rest of the plugs.

Then roll the bezel up and over the steering wheel. All of the switches come out with the bezel

The cluster is just (IIRC) 4 screws, one in each corner and the plugs on on the top of it. Like any plug, pay attention to the locking mechanism on everything you unplug so you don't break the clips. The PRN12 indicator, I believe if I remember, requires you to squeeze both sides of it and slide it down out of the cluster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Phil, great directions. It went very well. One additional thought is if you have a radio puller to pull that early in the process. It makes life easier.

Once I removed the cluster I didn't see anything out of place. All the connectors were tight and there was no wire chafing I could detect. Typically, when the dash power would go out a sharp rap on top of the dash would bring it back again. I am hoping the problem is not in the cluster proper. When the dash power goes out so do the power windows. That seems odd to me. But, lots of things Ford does is odd.

I will pull out my 2005 Electrical Shop Manual and see if it sheds any light on the problem.

Stay tuned!

nL
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A quick follow-up. There has been no relief from the problem. I have noticed that when the power goes out there is a distinct click sound like a relay switching. I am not sure if that is the cause of the problem or a result of the problem. I am getting desperate as the problem is getting rapidly worse.

nL
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
After doing more digging I feel pretty foolish. This is a classic case of the "battery saver relay circuit" failure. There are half a dozen companies who will take my cluster and repair it. If it is that easy I suspect it is possible to do it myself. If anyone has repaired their battery saver relay circuit please let me know.

Thanks!

nL
 

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Sorry, I have not messed with that circuit....probably will happen some day.

Regarding the radio removal...good point. I forgot to mention it as my factory radio hit the basement spare parts box when the truck was 2 days old. The monitor I have in there now mounts to the back of the dash panel so it just gets unplugged from behind like all the switches.

Let us know how it ends up for future reference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I pulled the dash and was able to trace the culprit to the battery saver relay. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like I can repair the relay. So, if anyone knows where I can source one it would be great. The only markings on the two relays on the cluster are: omron f8vf-ba

nL
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was able to source the relay on eBay using the part number F8VF-BA. I'll provide an update once I receive and RnR the part.

nL
 

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Fantastic, thanks for reporting back what you found. Let us know how it ends!
 
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