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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2005 f-350 Power stroke. While driving down a road, the engine died. There were no indications something is wrong, no sputtering, the engine sounded perfect when it died. It will not start, the starter turns the engine over, but it won't start up. The only modifications the truck has had done was the EGR delete about six years ago. I changed all of the filters recently.

Looking at the common issues, how can I test the high-pressure oil pump? How can I test the ICP sensor? Is there anything else anyone can suggest? I don't currently own any diagnostic scan tools. What appreciate any advice.
 

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Did you attempt to restart the truck after it had cooled down a few hours later. Your problem could be many things but I'm leaning towards a leak in the HPO system. When the oil is hot, it is also very thin and leaks rear their ugly head. If you had an earlier year motor I'd suggest the problem was the HPOP itself but the HPOP's on 2005 F350's rarely bite the dust.
 

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To be sure, you should download the Forscan App on your phone and purchase a wireless dongle to be able to read the computer data. We need to know what the FICM voltage is, the FICM Sync values, the ICP and IPR values while cranking, the ICP voltage, etc.
 

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Same happed to me. The STC fitting on HPOP came loose. Wouldn't start when cold it would start but shut down trying to drive. First time I needed a wrecker for my truck. Second time was getting out of the shop that fixed it. But caused other problems not putting it back together right. So I started collecting tools need to work on a powerstroke. Guess if you want it done right do it yourself. Thought once I retired and sold all my toils I'd be done. Haven't found a ship that can fix anything right without causing other issues or finding one that stands behind their work. Parts break I know this but crappy work says alot more. Check your connection start with least exspensive parts first and buy OEM I found out the hard way buying cheaper parts cost more because you'll end up buying OEM to fix it right. Tried buying the cheaper sensors on a rebuild end up replacing and buying OEM so it costs more in the end. Good luck hope its something easy to figure out and fix its not going to be cheap never is. Hopefully a few buck it's good.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, I have tried starting when cold. The next day, and a few days later. I'm looking at scanners, trying to figure out which one to purchase. Will the ELM327 Scanner give me the information I need?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
To be sure, you should download the Forscan App on your phone and purchase a wireless dongle to be able to read the computer data. We need to know what the FICM voltage is, the FICM Sync values, the ICP and IPR values while cranking, the ICP voltage, etc.
Had somebody plug in a scanner, using Forscan here's the readings it recorded:

FICMSYNC: moved from NO to YES when cranking the engine
VPWR, volt: dropped from 12.0 with the key on, to 11.0 when cranking the engine
MPWR, volt: fluctuated between 47.5 and 48.5, cranking didn't seem to change its value
BOO: Off, didn't change when cranking
VPWR, volt: dropped from 12.13 with the key on, to 10.75 when cranking
IPR, %: jumped from 14.84 with the key on, to 84.77 when cranking
ICP, kPa: didn't change when cranking
ICP, volt, fluctuated between 0.23 and 0.22 with the key on, about 0.23 when cranking
LPWR, volt: dropped from 12 to 11 when cranking

Tried to attach the Forscan .fis file, says it's not allowed. Is the ICP, kpa the HPOP? Should it have changed while cranking the engine? Again, thank you for any suggestions.
 

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On the front of the right hand valve cover there's a wire connection to what looks like an oil pressure sender. That's your ICP sensor. Unplug it and see if the truck starts.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
On the front of the right hand valve cover there's a wire connection to what looks like an oil pressure sender. That's your ICP sensor. Unplug it and see if the truck starts.
I forgot to mention, I already tried that. It wouldn't start, the engine just cranks over.
 

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Your symptoms certainly point to a major leak in the HP oil system. I wish one of the wiser heads here would chime in but in my opinion you're running out of easy diagnostic steps. If it was me my next step would be an IPR air test. You'll need a fitting like the attached image. In theory its possible to get the IPR out and put this fitting in without completely dismantling the top of the engine. My experience has been that the FICM needs to come out as well as the obvious air intake bits and pieces. I'd put air to the IPR fitting and listen at the right rear of the engine "valley". That's where the STC fitting connects the HPOP output to the branch tubes and for the size of leak you're looking for that seems to me the most probable location.
 

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+1 on a failed STC fitting (HPOP discharge fitting) being the most likely candidate - assuming it hasn't already been replaced.

Air test time.
 

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Even with the FICM removed, it's hard to get the IPR air test fitting securely into place. You might be able to do it but I had to remove the turbo. It was easier for me to replace the IPR than to hook up the IPR test fitting because of the air hose already being connected. Some think it's easier with the hose. Personal preference I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Finally took the truck to a diesel mechanic, it turned out to be a bad IPR valve.
 

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I don't like to replace parts, when I'm not sure they're really defective.
I built myself a test device for the IPR valve. There must be a noticeable difference in the airflow when the switch is actuated.
This is a defective IPR valve:

 

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I agree Hartwig!! That is why I recommend tests first (ie start w/ air testing, preferably through the IPR port, and while the IPR is off, it can be checked over).

Thanks for the video. Here is another on IPR bench testing:

 
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