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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After days of reading and searching I am not coming up with a clear answer to my problem.

2006 F250 XL 6.0 6spd 4x4
Between 140 and 170k miles.

I bought the truck at auction with an unknown problem for relatively cheap and had it towed to my "shop".

Crank but no start. On a guess I had an ipr repair kit on hand and put it in before doing anything else. No change.

Changed oil, replaced oil and both fuel filters with Motorcraft, also new oil filter cap. 2 brand new batteries. Tested ficm and get 48-48.5v. Bubble test on fuel system was fine. Icp plug has no oil or obvious issue. Low pressure oil regulator removed and cleaned. Gauge cluster is doa and engine light was related to that.

I have no diagnostic tools other than a parts store scanner that has recently croaked.

Now the problem,
There is no oil being pumped into the filter housing. The anti drain back is working, held it down and poured oil in and it stays as long as I hold the button down. No matter how much or long I crank no oil comes in. Cranked with regulator removed and no oil comes out the hole. Also jacked rear end way up, added 2 quarts of oil ( 17 total in motor) still nothing.

I am not a ford mechanic but everything points to lpop failure. Am I correct? Also is there any for sure test other than removing it and looking?

Thanks, Robbie.
 

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You are likely correct. The 6.0L oil pump is easy to access and inspect once tou remove the crank pulley which is bolted to the crankshaft. New bolts are required for reassembly. Then there are 4 small bolts holding the pump cover on. looking up at the pump from underneath, there is a plug that requires an allen key to remove. That is the pressure regulator. Remove and inspect it for debris and sticking. I have never seen an oil pump war out on one of these engines - all failures that I have seen were caused by debris from a failed lifters sending tiny roller bearings and chunks of metal into the crankcase that get sucked into the pick up tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. The truck was bought new by my city. It has plowed snow and pulled various trailers it's whole life. I am told that it began to smoke then lost power and died. Since it was already being replaced there was no attempt to fix it. That's about the only history I have other than 4 new injectors around 2011.
 

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This is on a 7.3L, but it's a graphic image of why you need to be careful about the amount of RTV that you use. But unless you've done some work and gooped it up with RTV, then it's likely not your issue. (Photo courtesy of Maryland Dieselnick).
157023


I'm with ford_doctor. Most likely cause is a fouled regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will replace the regulator first since it's cheap and easy. I don't mind doing major work to fix it but trying to do the little things first.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got to the lpop and found the inner gear broken. Removed one large chunk with my fingers and the front cover cracked in at least 3 places.
20191230_195631.jpg
 

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Nice pic. Now you need to remove the oil pump gears and inspect them - most notably for the signature of needle bearings that come from a failed lifter.
 

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Ouch!! ?
Interesting that the 6.0L LPOP runs in the timing cover. On the 7.3L, the LPOP runs in a separate bolt-on housing, which might save the front cover in a failure of the gears like that.
Kind of illustrates that newer isn't always better.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That timing cover is toast. Might be best to look for a motor.
I am fairly new to this particular problem so just curious as to why you suggest a motor based on the timing cover. The corner can be replaced along with the pump. I have not had time to work on it and the weather is about to turn bad so could be a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am trying to be optimistic that something didn't fly apart in the motor and take out other things. I have read that this is a more common failure on manual trucks. Also mine plowed snow and pulled a loaded trailer sometimes. Hopefully that is all that caused the issue. Won't really know more until I get deeper into it.
 

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I am fairly new to this particular problem so just curious as to why you suggest a motor based on the timing cover. The corner can be replaced along with the pump. I have not had time to work on it and the weather is about to turn bad so could be a while.
Obviously something went thru the pump. I saw a similar situation on a D8 Cat once and they tried to patch the motor up. It was disastrous results. So much money wasted trying to fix a pile of scrap. You got the truck for a steal and you must have expected to spend some money on it. Used motors should be relatively cheap these days. You will have a parts motor too. Since you never heard the motor run you have no idea of the engines condition.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I removed the old lpop. Inner gear came out in 6 pieces and the outer gear had split in one place. There was zero damage to any of the teeth and nothing came out other than the gears. I put all the pieces together on the workbench and there were no shards or anything missing from the broken pieces. Also there was no sign of a sleeve or wear ring on the crank. I replaced the timing cover, gasket, lpop and wear slereve. Put everything back together and a few cranks later it started and seems smooth. I have a few little things to button up before I can drive it and see what happens. From what I found during all of this unless the lack of a wear sleeve caused it the lpop failed for no reason at all.
 

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Check the end play in your crankshaft, it should barely be noticeable -- I have seen blown oil pumps from too much end play and a worn notch on the crank drive lugs
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If there was any play I didn't notice it and the notch looked and felt fine. Don't have much experience with either of these issues so all I can really say is that everything looked and felt fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm curious if the wear sleeve on the crank was missing from the factory or not required at all. There was no sign of one ever being there and the original seal seemed to fit snug over the crank. Also I was able to put the new sleeve on using a brass hammer and going very slowly.
 

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They dont come from factory with sleeve. I have replaced seal and wish I could get factory seal because the sleeve was not required
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have an oil leak coming from between the front cover and block. It is between the two lowest bolts just above the pressure regulator. There is a gap that I can just get a fingernail in. Wondering if I missed an o-ring or something. All that I put between the cover and block is the large metal gasket, the surface felt and looked clean. All other edges I see from underneath are tight against the block. Any ideas?

Also the truck is running fantastic!
 
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