[DaNeck]

I've got a (some would call lemon) 6.0 2006 F350 (Lariat RWD) but I can't get out of the loan and ABSOLUTELY need the truck for work. HELP!

Since buying it with 21K miles on it eight months ago, I've had replaced at dealerships (on warranty programs) front bearings on BOTH sides (not simultaneously mind you) a total of three times EACH side. Now I DO have 101K miles on it now (you do the math on how much of my life is spent on the road in this truck...) but the extra warranty I purchased with the truck is expired now and I'm gonna have to do this job myself going forward.

I don't expect my mileage demands to go down any (more probably UP) and I can't find the cash for an extended warranty. I have replaced bearings on 1999 E350 7.3 vans several times (and several other cars) but nothing that has the rotor/hub/combo/thingy this truck has on it. Do I still simply hammer the bearings and races out like "the old days" or is there something extra I need to be wary of in the process?

Also, while I haven't broken either hub assembly down myself on this truck, I see what looks like an aluminum foil grease cap on the front hubs. Do I need to know anything about the final grease seal that's different than my older versions of E350 vs this newer F350?

The factory was kind enough to rebuild (once) and (obviously after screwing that up...) replace my transmission in this truck another time in the last eight months as well. What are the general "faults" everybody here knows of regarding this 2006 version of the F350 and what should I be doing to get ahead of repairs you guys know I'm in for going forward?

My 7.3's (I have two in the E350 configuration and from 1999) are f-ing bullet proof but this 6.0 is one weird malady after another. Suggestions (and yes, selling and cutting my losses IS my first choice but I don't have buyers or time to make it happen anytime in the foreseeable future...)????
All HELPFUL suggestions will be appreciated. Feel free to let me have everything you can think of on every aspect of this beasty. JD

 

[dieselmac]

The wheel bearings aren't hard to do. Just a little time consuming. I spent a solid day doing brakes and repacking bearings.

If you've been through 3 sets of bearings then there's either something else going on in the front end or they were installed incorrectly. I repacked mine at about 60k and they still looked great (originals).

There are 2 bearings / side. An inner and an outer. The outer is held in place be the spindle nut and the rear by a grease seal. No hammering required (except to tap in the grease seal).

To get at them, you have to pull the caliper and anchor plate (what the caliper bolts to). The anchor plate is held in place by 2 torque-to-yield (TTY) bolts (~165 FT-LBS torque) that are a [email protected]#$ to get out. Some kind of super duper, voodoo locktite on them bad boys. Work them in and out to loosen the locktite and lube generously. I broke two 1/2" ratchets getting mine out.

Once they're out, pack the bearings and grease the hub appropriately and reassemble. The bearings need to be seated properly also. Ford has a specific procedure for this.

You'll need to buy some new TTY bolts for the anchor plate. They're single use only. Do NOT re-use. I can not emphasize this enough. They're about $14 for both sides from Ford.

You'll also need some new grease seals. Don't try to re-use them either. I guarantee you'll mess them up getting them out. IIRC, They're about $18 each from Ford.

Let me know if you need more instructions. I have the sections on installation and seating the bearings out of the Ford manual I could send you and some pics I can post up.

Good luck!

 

[Redneck Fiber Works]

To get at them, you have to pull the caliper and anchor plate (what the caliper bolts to). The anchor plate is held in place by 2 torque-to-yield (TTY) bolts (~165 FT-LBS torque) that are a [email protected]#$ to get out. Some kind of super duper, voodoo locktite on them bad boys. Work them in and out to loosen the locktite and lube generously. I broke to 1/2" ratchets getting mine out.

This is why GOD gave man fire. I had to gently warm the passenger side top caliper anchor bracket bolt.

You'll need to buy some new TTY bolts for the anchor plate. They're single use only. Do NOT re-use. I can not emphasize this enough. They're about $14 for both sides from Ford.

Good Info. This, I did not know. I did all 4 brakes today, re-used the bolts. Looks like it's time for a trip to the local parts department tomorrow am.

 

[dieselmac]

Good Info. This, I did not know. I did all 4 brakes today, re-used the bolts. Looks like it's time for a trip to the local parts department tomorrow am.

Good call. An anchor plate coming loose could do some serious damage.

Anchor bolt part #FMC W710517-S439

 

[Redneck Fiber Works]

I agree.

Thank you for the part number.