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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, I'm having a long cold start problem. When cold in the morning It has to crank for about 3-7 second before its fires. Once its warm it starts back up right away. I created a youtube video below to show you guys in more detail. I have android torque setup on my phone so you can see my ICP,IPR, ficm voltage and ficm sync. I'm suspecting to kind of high pressure leak or air getting into the oil rail.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z76X2vM7w44
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I pulled the ICP sensor in the passenger side valve cover and oil rail was full when cold. Is there some sort of plug on the driver side (ficm side) valve cover to check the oil rail?
 

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In your video, I didn't hear the chime when you turned the key. Are you waiting for the glow plug light to go out before starting? High pressure oil leaks are more prevalent when hot. Honestly, that started fine for being cold, about 5 seconds. Let the glow plugs go for 10-15 seconds after the light goes out and then time it. Maybe you have a bad glow plug or two.
 

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IPR of 83.9 is high for startup. 85% is wide open. The oil leak should be worse when the oil is hot though. My bad dummy plugs caused the long start after sitting for about 2 hours. If you are starting it right back up or with only a short delay, it might not have time to leak down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My theory is when the engine is cold the tolerances in the dummy plugs would be loose. Once the engine was warm the heat expanded dummy plugs would have a better seal.
 

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Does it behave the same way when you try a cold start w/ the ICP unplugged?

Do you have OEM oil filters and fuel filters?

Have you checked for codes (Torque app does not read codes very well)?

Doesn't behave like a HPO leak IMO.

Your IPR % is fine at hot idle (spec is 24% low idle and 40.6% high idle)
 

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I've been fighting this exact issue for years, Fintech. Mine starts very quick after its completely warm. But when cold it's got a long crank. I've replaced the dummy plugs & stand pipes on both sides, and even a set of injectors on the drivers side. My new theory is that the nipple cup seals and/or top injector seals are worn and leak oil after cool down. I pulled the ICP when cold it seemed that there could have been more oil in the passenger side rail. I just need to order the o-rings and pay $$ for the nipple cup socket.

I posted on craigslist locally asking if any one had that socket for me to borrow for a day or three. no luck! haha
 

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27% IPR seems pretty good cold.. that start up didnt seem bad at all.
 
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