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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First off I am new here so hope i am posting in the right section. I have never worked on a diesel nor owned one so i really dont know much about them nor have i ever owned a ford.

Recently i picked up a 2007 ford f350 cheap 6.0 with 106k on it 1 owner bone stock. It didn't start one day so the guy went and bought a new truck so thats how i got it.. he really didnt take care of it to well twards the end it appears. I charged up batteries filled it up with fuel it trys to catch/start but no dice white/black smoke but no go there is a code for 1 glow plug i am just goin to change them all. Also from me just turning it over trying to start it i noticed oil dripping underneath..bell housing/starter area was soaked and it appears it is coming from top of motor maybe and dripping down and the front it is soaked fresh oil all over Pic below. From just looking around i have heard a lot bout egr cooler? or bypass it idk.. not sure what one to get or what to do with it.. other then pulling boat and car trailer sometimes i am not towing every day. So basically just need some pointers on what to do to it/what i should check to get it running. I also just ordered a thing for my phone so i can use torque pro.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Also so i can top off the oil what is recommended oil weight to use? i plan to change oil and all filters ect soon after all leaks are found and fixed.
 

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You're on the right track with Torque Pro - personally I use Forscan but the important element is to use something. There's a few key parameters you need to monitor but rather than me muddling through and missing some, just watch a couple of Dieseltech Ron's videos. He'll tell you everything you need to know and do it in an easy to understand manner.

 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
OK so i watched few diff vids ty lot of info I think its my ficm HOWEVER I am confused do i test when cranking or not? cause most dont show when cranking and it shows low voltage out the gate. With key on i got 47-48 volts when cranking its like.. 28-35v ect jumps all over does this mean bad? Also as of today it has 2 brand new batteries. Also any ideas on the oil leak? i really cant see where it comes from what is on top/front of the motor that can leak?
 

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OK so i watched few diff vids ty lot of info I think its my ficm HOWEVER I am confused do i test when cranking or not? cause most dont show when cranking and it shows low voltage out the gate. With key on i got 47-48 volts when cranking its like.. 28-35v ect jumps all over does this mean bad? Also as of today it has 2 brand new batteries. Also any ideas on the oil leak? i really cant see where it comes from what is on top/front of the motor that can leak?
My thread on no-start troubleshooting says to test it when cranking ............

If it is too long to read, then maybe you need to take it in and have it diagnosed.

If FICM MPower is below 43 volts when cranking then it (FICM) is bad or you have an issue w/ the electrical system.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
My thread on no-start troubleshooting says to test it when cranking ............

If it is too long to read, then maybe you need to take it in and have it diagnosed.

If FICM MPower is below 43 volts when cranking then it (FICM) is bad or you have an issue w/ the electrical system.
Didn't see your thread before...I just ordered a new board going to fix the ficm myself looks easy.
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
fixed the ficm and it fired right up now i just gotta fix the oil leaks and replace glow plugs. Also noticed the turbo shaft has some play in it... up and down i know in and out is normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Turns out the oil cooler is shot so thats the leak. I gotta replace that next but how much up and down play is to much for the turbo? it has never been rebuilt 107k miles what mileage do you guys normally rebuild em at?
 

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If the turbo can't be pulled to the side and scrub the housing and bind then radial play is OK. The axial (shaft motion front to rear) is .035" or in the ball park of that. Turbos are loose as the bushings are just oil guides and no contact occurs. Once engine starts and there is oil pressure the turbo is running on the oil flowing into the bushings. Just behind the oil filter container is the oil pressure switch (1 wire) and the oil temp sensor (two wire). The oil pressure switches can leak or otherwise you have turbo drain tube, turbo oil supply tube seal, or oil cooler cover seal leaks if the oil run off the front like that. Unless it is parked downhill forward then leaks on top to the rear usually only go over the bell housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
If the turbo can't be pulled to the side and scrub the housing and bind then radial play is OK. The axial (shaft motion front to rear) is .035" or in the ball park of that. Turbos are loose as the bushings are just oil guides and no contact occurs. Once engine starts and there is oil pressure the turbo is running on the oil flowing into the bushings. Just behind the oil filter container is the oil pressure switch (1 wire) and the oil temp sensor (two wire). The oil pressure switches can leak or otherwise you have turbo drain tube, turbo oil supply tube seal, or oil cooler cover seal leaks if the oil run off the front like that. Unless it is parked downhill forward then leaks on top to the rear usually only go over the bell housing.
Oh ok the turbo doesn't hit the walls or anything yet so maybe i am good for a bit probably going to pull and inspect it when i get a chance tho..
Also didnt think about the oil sensor it is in fact wet all around it would be awesome if that is the whole leak but think oil cooler leaks going to change sensor first maybe il get lucky.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Took it for a quick drive today and the fuel sending unit threw a code went to full then to E when it has half tank going to check grounds ect but how the hell is a new unit $300.... its not even a fuel pump lol.
 

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I work on a ton f these with that code and no ill effects. Sometimes dosing the fuel with auto trans fluid (cheapest old dexron stuff you can find) will clean fuel residue off the resistor face of the sending unit. You put a couple of quarts in a full tank. The fuel level needs to be high so it covers the sender. If it doesn't fix the sender it still is a good injector cleaner for older diesels but NOT for ones with DPF and also for SCR.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I work on a ton f these with that code and no ill effects. Sometimes dosing the fuel with auto trans fluid (cheapest old dexron stuff you can find) will clean fuel residue off the resistor face of the sending unit. You put a couple of quarts in a full tank. The fuel level needs to be high so it covers the sender. If it doesn't fix the sender it still is a good injector cleaner for older diesels but NOT for ones with DPF and also for SCR.
Ok thanks just put some injector cleaner in it and filled it up will do that a few times also I think the oil sensor was the oil leak cant tell 100% tho i tried to clean everything up so lot of residual oil ect. Otherwise it is ruining pre decent so far knock wood.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Still leaking oil looks like i am going to get stuck doing oil cooler looks like its a ***** to do.. also noticed the other day it appears the EGR cooler was replaced at some point so thats a plus i guess..
 
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