This was my answer to another post. I now have pictures up on my photos.
This is how mine was done.
I was at my dealer today and talked to a tech friend of mine named Gary. I'm not very good at rubbing my belly and patting my head. Garry took the computer and shut off the seat belt reminder. :thumbsup:
Next, he ran the wiring diagram to shut the chime off for the key in the ignition and the door open. Remove the kick panel behind the emergency brake. In the wiring loom look for two (2) green wires with a purple line. I'm color blind so I had to take Gary's word on the colors. One of these wires will be the one you want to disable the chime for the key in the ignition and the door open. It also disables the chime when the key is in the accessories position and the door open.
With the key in the ignition, stick a probe into one of the green/purple stripe wires and ground it. If the chime quits, you found it. If it doesn't, its the other green/purple striped wire. hyeah:
Gary spliced a wire off of the the correct green/purple striped wire and ran it to a toggle switch. Then he ran a ground to the toggle switch. This way my chime works normal in the off position. Flip the switch on and no chime when the door is open.
Sunday I helped a buddy of mine do his truck. I suggested he ignore the first green/purple striped wire. The correct wire is deeper in the wire loom. We found it and it was the correct one. Hit it on the first try.
This modification only affects the key in the ignition chime and shuts off the chime when the key is any position. All of the other chimes work normally. :thumbsup: I put a toggle switch on mine so the chime will work like the factory setup until I want to listen to the radio with the doors open and the truck engine off. I flip my switch and no chime.
If you wanted to kill the key chime permanently, don't use a switch and just ground the correct green/purple striped wire.
This modification only affects the key in the ignition chime and shuts off the chime when the key is any position. All of the other chimes work normally. :thumbsup: I put a toggle switch on mine so the chime will work like the factory setup until I want to listen to the radio with the doors open and the truck engine off. I flip my switch and no chime.
If you wanted to kill the key chime permanently, don't use a switch and just ground the correct green/purple striped wire.
:7: I got to thinking about your question and went out to the truck to test it. If I flip the switch to kill the key in the ignition/door open chime, it also kills the headlights on chime. If you turn the chime killer off, all chimes work normally including the headlights on chime.
The chime killer fools the system into thinking the door is closed. Thus the headlights on chime only works when you open the door, which the system does not see since it is fooled into thinking the door is closed. If you direct wire the chime killer permanently as mentioned above without the switch, you will also loose the headlights on chime.
I had this rigged up so when I'm out in the pasture mending/installing fence I can have the radio on with the doors open. This is the only situation I will have the chime killer on. That was the reason for the switch.
Thanks for your question. I knew I had everything working OK but I didn't test the headlights on situation.
I want to refine this mod. With the chime killer on and the left door open, the interior and bed light will eventually turn off. If you open the passenger door, these lights will not turn off. I need to add another switch that will shut off the interior and bed light. Has anyone done this? If you have, let me know what which wire you used. It'll save me some time. Thanks.
Gearjammer - just so I'm clear on this - you tapped into the green/purple stripe wire over to a toggle switch and ran the other lead off the toggle switch to a ground source, correct?
Gearjammer - just so I'm clear on this - you tapped into the green/purple stripe wire over to a toggle switch and ran the other lead off the toggle switch to a ground source, correct?
That's what you do! There are two (2) green/purple striped wires. The wrong one is usually easier to find.
THE REAL DEAL!
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This kills the chime and your interior/bed lights so all of your doors can be open with the key in the ignition in the accessories position and your radio on.
All credit must be given to my friend and :ford: Master Tech Gary.
I have told you about how to kill the chime and the left front door light. This shows you how you can kill the lights on the other three (3) doors on a crew cab. You will need two (2) dual pole/single throw switches. In layman's terms this is an on/off toggle switch with a four (4) screw post back.
THE LEFT SIDE
On switch # 1, run the chime/light killer wire [green/purple striped] to post 1. Run the wire from the left rear door light killer to post 2. This wire can be found in the channel next to the left front seat. It's a solid green wire that you have to splice to. Make a jumper wire from post 3 to post 4 and then run a ground from post 4.
THE RIGHT SIDE
In the channel next to the right front seat look for a solid yellow wire. Run a spice wire to switch # 2, post 1. This kills the right rear door light. Above the fuse box next to the smart box is where you will find the solid white wire to splice into. Run this to switch # 2, post 2. This kills the light on the right front door. Make your jumper wire from Switch # 2, post 3 to post 4 and then ground post 4. You are done!
:beerchug:
Look at my pictures. It's all there. Another feature of this mod is you can remove the key and the radio will still play until it times out.
I'll run the usual disclaimer that to do this mod you do so at at your own risk.
I think there's an easier way. Go to my albums. Go to Chime and Light Killer. Look at the last photo called "Arrow Points To Lever." The caption reads;
"If you pull this lever it will loosen the connection from the "smart box" where you can access all four colors of the wires needed to complete the Chime & Light killer This will eliminate the need to pull open the door channels next to the seats on each side. I would only access the green, yellow, and white wire from this location.
I would still access the green/purple striped wire next to the E-Brake. Remember, next to the E-Brake there are two (2) green/purple striped wires. One is correct, the other one is not. There is only one (1) green/purple striped wires coming off of the "smart box". At this time, I don't know what the second green/purple striped wire goes to."
I have not done one this way so if you do it this way before I do one, let me know.
By killing the door chime would that also disable an installed alarm that actuates when the door is opened? If I remember correctly, an alarm runs off the same 'open door' pin switch. If you can remember to reset the chime you'd be OK, but...
By killing the door chime would that also disable an installed alarm that actuates when the door is opened? If I remember correctly, an alarm runs off the same 'open door' pin switch. If you can remember to reset the chime you'd be OK, but...
You are correct. I use this for keeping my doors open and the radio on with no interior/bed lights. That's why I had the toggle switches put in. With the chime/light killer off, my alarm works normal. I only turn it on when I'm camping, fishing, or working in my pasture and I turn it off as soon as I start my truck.
Just so you guys know, there is an easier way with no need for a switch. There is a blue and gray wire coming down from the ignition. When you put your key in the ignition, it sends 12 volts to the computer which then checks if the door is open. Cut this wire and the check is never preformed. AND, it doesn't affect anything else so no need for a switch. A very easy job that I did in less than 5 minutes. No more door dinger.
Just so you guys know, there is an easier way with no need for a switch. There is a blue and gray wire coming down from the ignition. When you put your key in the ignition, it sends 12 volts to the computer which then checks if the door is open. Cut this wire and the check is never preformed. AND, it doesn't affect anything else so no need for a switch. A very easy job that I did in less than 5 minutes. No more door dinger.
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