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Discussion Starter #21
Alarm

Are you referring to the factory alarm or an aftermarket alarm that was not working? I'm just curious cause i'm thinking of making this mod too.

Thanks
I'm talking about the after market alarm in my signature. It works fine the way I did it as long as you turn the chime/light killer mod off.

Shawn :smokin:
 

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Yes it is. To make sure, just strip a little of the insulation from the wire, put a test light to the bare area, and insert your key. If the light goes on, you have the correct wire. Also, if you follow it all the way up, you will see where it meets the end of the ignition switch. It's the only blue and gray wire that goes to the ignition.
 

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Just for reference, I pulled the column cover off my 08 F350 and pulled the blue wire with a grey stripe from the ignition plug and it did nothing. I then pulled, one by one, every other wire from the ignition plug and that didn't help either. So it must be a combination of two or more wires. I tried to pull the whole igition switch from the column but the tilt steering lever is in the way. While I had it partially removed I could see that there is a small pin that extends out of the lock when the key is inserted. If I could get in there and cut the pin off.....

Anyone have any suggestions????

Blair
 

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Very strange. On mine and every other person I've talked through this mod, all that needs done is to clip the blue and gray wire. Like I said in a previous post, you should try checking which wire gets power when the key is inserted with a test light. That will give you a clear answer.
 

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Very strange. On mine and every other person I've talked through this mod, all that needs done is to clip the blue and gray wire. Like I said in a previous post, you should try checking which wire gets power when the key is inserted with a test light. That will give you a clear answer.

This does not kill the chime though when the drivers door is open with key in ignition. Anyone have any ideas?
 

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Been cleaning my truck this morning and decided to clip the blue wire with the gray stripe. Clipped it and put the key in and it did work. No dinging. Now, do ya'll smell a BIG but coming? Well here's the but... I turned the switch to acc so I could listen to the radio and there it was! The constant dinging. So, I thought this is pretty much useless like this so I decided to just put it back together with a butt splice stake-on and forgot that the key was still in the ignition and my knife got grounded in there somewhere and sparked. I went ahead and spliced it back together and then put the key in, turned it and nothing! No ding, no dash lights, nothing! So then I dug my book out to look for which fuse blowed. It was a 20A fuse #27 in the box. Didn't have any 20's in the spares spaces so jumped on my bicycle and rode to Advance (just 1/2 mile away) and bought a pack of 20A fuses and changed it and everything is back to normal again. My 5 minute project took over an hour! Maybe I'll try the one behind the e brake kick plate later.
 

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Been cleaning my truck this morning and decided to clip the blue wire with the gray stripe. Clipped it and put the key in and it did work. No dinging. Now, do ya'll smell a BIG but coming? Well here's the but... I turned the switch to acc so I could listen to the radio and there it was! The constant dinging. So, I thought this is pretty much useless like this so I decided to just put it back together with a butt splice stake-on and forgot that the key was still in the ignition and my knife got grounded in there somewhere and sparked. I went ahead and spliced it back together and then put the key in, turned it and nothing! No ding, no dash lights, nothing! So then I dug my book out to look for which fuse blowed. It was a 20A fuse #27 in the box. Didn't have any 20's in the spares spaces so jumped on my bicycle and rode to Advance (just 1/2 mile away) and bought a pack of 20A fuses and changed it and everything is back to normal again. My 5 minute project took over an hour! Maybe I'll try the one behind the e brake kick plate later.
Correct me if i'm wrong but i think you can go the second on position and the dinger stops after 3 chimes. I found the same thing you did but decided I was ok with the short cycle of chimes that quickly stop. 1st on postion though the chimes keep going. It would be cool though to kill it all together provided there are no side effects.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Run Position

Correct me if i'm wrong but i think you can go the second on position and the dinger stops after 3 chimes. I found the same thing you did but decided I was ok with the short cycle of chimes that quickly stop. 1st on postion though the chimes keep going. It would be cool though to kill it all together provided there are no side effects.
The second on position is the run position and the chime will quit without cutting any wires and an open door. In the run position you will have a host of things draining your battery.

The first on is the accessories position.

Shawn :smokin:
 

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I guess different people want this for different reasons. I just wanted to be able to leave the key in the ignition. Without hearing the dinger. Not listen to the radio or anything. Sometimes I leave it there over night in the garage so the ACC position is no good.
 

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Guys, I'm trying to get rid of this sounder for a buddy of mine with an E350 van. Just the one so that he can leave his keys in the ignition all the time and use the button to lock and unlock the doors, without having that stupid sounder on whenever the door is open. I seem to remember that there was a way to do this in the steering column with a Black Wire w/Pink Stripe by just cutting it. I believe it's how I did it to my 99 F350. Don't have wiring diagram for the E350, any help would be appreciated.
 

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This was my answer to another post. I now have pictures up on my photos.

This is how mine was done.

I was at my dealer today and talked to a tech friend of mine named Gary. I'm not very good at rubbing my belly and patting my head. Garry took the computer and shut off the seat belt reminder. ?

Next, he ran the wiring diagram to shut the chime off for the key in the ignition and the door open. Remove the kick panel behind the emergency brake. In the wiring loom look for two (2) green wires with a purple line. I'm color blind so I had to take Gary's word on the colors. One of these wires will be the one you want to disable the chime for the key in the ignition and the door open. It also disables the chime when the key is in the accessories position and the door open.

With the key in the ignition, stick a probe into one of the green/purple stripe wires and ground it. If the chime quits, you found it. If it doesn't, its the other green/purple striped wire. :eek:hyeah:

Gary spliced a wire off of the the correct green/purple striped wire and ran it to a toggle switch. Then he ran a ground to the toggle switch. This way my chime works normal in the off position. Flip the switch on and no chime when the door is open.

I hope this helps you out.

Shawn :guiness:
Would it be possible to just cut the purple/green wire instead of installing a toggle switch?if not where would you ground the wire?
 
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