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Discussion Starter #1
Ive had a 2011 xlt super duty f250 since new.
It has always cooled well. Up until this year.

I have to keep it on max all the time to keep cool air. I know there was a tab on the airbox under the dash but was wondering if anyone had this changed out? Or if there was something to fix on it?


I looks like the actuator is moving. Just dont know if its closed 100 percent. But i can seeit moving from hot and cold.

I have added some freon and it gets worse.

Any suggestions?
 

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Mine was acting stupid too. I cut a small hole in the air box behind the glovebox and flushed a ton of junk out of the coils. I also removed my grill and soaked the radiators etc with detergent and washed a bunch more out that way. Now we ride cooler and the engine is cooler. The temperature drop inside discharges was almost 15 degrees.
 

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Adding refrigerant all willy-nilly is never good as the refrigerant charge needs to be at specification as does the oil charge for the system. The best way to check the refrigerant system is to fully evacuate it to measure the charge then recharge it to specification and then check the pressures... and for leaks if the system is low. To diagnose the control system and air distribution a scan tool with the ability to read parameters and have bi-directional control of the outputs is almost a must, definitely if the truck has electronic climate control.

Since you likely overcharged the system the best place to start is to evacuate and then recharge the system and go from there.
 

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Looks like my AC is headed of the deep end. With everything cleaned out in my previous post it was working well. Drove to Montana and back and now it’s dropped way off in cooling. Are the compressors weak on these and failing at 110k or do I just need to go to the dealer with card in hand and ask for cold air nicely?
 

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The a/c is good on SDs. My 2015 keep me cooled when we had 105 to 110 temps for a couple of weeks. All late model a/c systems use electric motors to move the doors to control where it blows out and to move the door that allows some portion of air to move through heater core to control vent discharge temps. Of course, for full cooling you want that warm air blend door fully closed. If you use a stick of some sort and position it between seat and accel pedal to get a high idle, 1100-1500 RPM and then go find the large diameter a/c line coming from firewall and going down to compressor. This is the line by EGR cooler on RH valve cover, below the wiring harness coming from the powertrain control module stuffed into cowl.
If that line is COLD and sweating and you have vent temps that aren't cold, 55F or a little cooler after 5 min of a/c running with engine at high idle, then you could have a blend door actuator problem or debris on evaporator, etc. If the line described is not cold then it has a leak or some other problem with refrigerant system. Either way you will be handing over that credit card.
 
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