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If anyone can give me some advice I’d appreciate it. Recently I’ve had a spongy brake pedal and didn’t feel safe. My front brakes were done a little over a year ago, so I took it to Sears for an evaluation. Their tech walked me around and showed me, my rear left caliper had the piston pushed all the way and was leaking. The pad was damn near gone, and the rotor was too worn. So then they wanted just about $1,000....I’m a bit broke, but I found a deal on amazon for $320. Anyway, I’ve changed a front caliper once, 20 years ago. So I’ve got a floor jack, jack stands and borrowed a few tools I don’t own. Anyway, watching videos, I’m confident about the installation....but as far as bleeding the brakes....I don’t want to screw this up. I bought a 32 oz jug, hopefully that will be enough.

long story, and I apologize, just nervous, but would appreciate any advice on all steps of this procedure, especially the bleeding. I've been told conflicting things....I grew up with the 2 person system, One guy on the pedal, one on the bleeder valve. So any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

also, is the bleeder valve the 9/16 bolt head? That’s right where the brake line goes...but online some sites say it’s 7/16, so I want to make damn sure I’m doing the right thing to the right part.

Thanks!
 

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The brake line bolt will be 14mm or 9/16" and be sure to obtain and use new copper washers at the connection. The bleeder screws are usually 10mm or 3/8" which is usually too loose. I recommend breaking them all loose with a 6-point socket then close them before you start then using a wrench will be easier. A seized caliper piston can cause this concern when dual piston calipers are used. With these trucks however you need to be sure that the caliper slide pins are not seizing up as well. I have also seem many times whenre the brake pads and rotors were badly rusted and coming apart which can cause the spongy feel.
 
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