From my experience, any time the engine cranking stops suddenly it's due to low battery voltage shutting down the PCM which controls the starter relay and sometimes they do fire off with an additional try or two for whatever reason. I would begin there... If you have a scan tool, some modules may even set codes for low battery voltage which would help confirm the idea.
2013 cranks for split second then stops
My 2013 6.7 has 110k miles. The last few cold starts in the morning I hit the ignition and engine starts to crank then just stops. Hit the ignition again and it starts and runs perfect. It did this for 2 mornings and then this morning it wouldn’t start on second crank. I then held the key in the start position and it started to crank then stopped three or four times then cranked and started like normal. After the truck warmed up and was shut off when I got back in it started right up on the first try.
Any suggestions? I’m about 70 miles from the nearest dealership.
Any suggestions? I’m about 70 miles from the nearest dealership.
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Thanks Ford Doc. No codes were set but your analysis sounds reasonable as the truck hasn’t been driven for a while. I’ll put the charger on it tonight and I’ll soon know.My 2013 6.7 has 110k miles. The last few cold starts in the morning I hit the ignition and engine starts to crank then just stops. Hit the ignition again and it starts and runs perfect. It did this for 2 mornings and then this morning it wouldn’t start on second crank. I then held the key in the start position and it started to crank then stopped three or four times then cranked and started like normal. After the truck warmed up and was shut off when I got back in it started right up on the first try.
Any suggestions? I’m about 70 miles from the nearest dealership.
Well Ford Doc, you have undoubtedly solved my problem. I’m ashamed to say because I pride myself on maintenance but this time I failed miserably.Thanks Ford Doc. No codes were set but your analysis sounds reasonable as the truck hasn’t been driven for a while. I’ll put the charger on it tonight and I’ll soon know.
When I went to hook up the charger I found the positive terminal on the primary battery almost completely encased in corrosion. I will clean things up tomorrow and I’m sure my problem will be resolved. I will post tomorrow if that indeed solves the problem.
It is recommended to call them over.My 2013 6.7 has 110k miles. The last few cold starts in the morning I hit the ignition and engine starts to crank then just stops. Hit the ignition again and it starts and runs perfect. It did this for 2 mornings and then this morning it wouldn’t start on second crank. I then held the key in the start position and it started to crank then stopped three or four times then cranked and started like normal. After the truck warmed up and was shut off when I got back in it started right up on the first try.
Any suggestions? I’m about 70 miles from the nearest dealership.
Corrosion on batteries means they are shot. You can clean them up but they are still junk. Best thing is to replace them because a leaking battery will just keep leaking.Well Ford Doc, you have undoubtedly solved my problem. I’m ashamed to say because I pride myself on maintenance but this time I failed miserably.
When I went to hook up the charger I found the positive terminal on the primary battery almost completely encased in corrosion. I will clean things up tomorrow and I’m sure my problem will be resolved. I will post tomorrow if that indeed solves the problem.
Ford doctor was correct the problem was low battery voltage.From my experience, any time the engine cranking stops suddenly it's due to low battery voltage shutting down the PCM which controls the starter relay and sometimes they do fire off with an additional try or two for whatever reason. I would begin there... If you have a scan tool, some modules may even set codes for low battery voltage which would help confirm the idea.
My batteries which my 76 year old brain was confident could not have been more than a couple of years old turned out to be a full 5 years old. Though they both tested at 12.6 volts and would accept a full charge the primary battery showed weak under a load.
Replaced the batteries and all was fixed.
Thanks to all who replied.
Never question the Doctor! He knows. Oh, and glad you got 'er all fixed up.Ford doctor was correct the problem was low battery voltage.
My batteries which my 76 year old brain was confident could not have been more than a couple of years old turned out to be a full 5 years old. Though they both tested at 12.6 volts and would accept a full charge the primary battery showed weak under a load.
Replaced the batteries and all was fixed.
Thanks to all who replied.
Beli9eve it or not a friend of mine writes the date she purchases anything like batteries and things you don't replace often. I thought is was stupid but do you know when you bought thate garbage disposal or washing machine? Seems like they are just a couple years old, that is so wrong LOL. I now date everything.
You can look on most batteries and see when they were manufactured. But I also take a sharpie and write the date on them when I installed them. I usually have to freshen that date up every year after I do my annual battery maintenance and scrub everything off.
But as you mentioned I do it with home appliances. My water heater has a piece of duct tape on it with the date that I installed it, also my new stove and refrigerator. That along with a plastic box that contains all the owner manuals along with the receipts stapled to the manuals.
But as you mentioned I do it with home appliances. My water heater has a piece of duct tape on it with the date that I installed it, also my new stove and refrigerator. That along with a plastic box that contains all the owner manuals along with the receipts stapled to the manuals.
Original owner (institutional...not like 'asylum') took a permanent paint marker and scrawled the date of last service or replacement on just about every part. Thought that was corny at first, now following suit.
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