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Believe me, I've seen it...people have told me the ride is too rough when empty and they don't want to adjust the pressure every time they tow, so comfort wins out. I was told when I bought my first SD back in late 99 that I needed to run even the front tires at close to max due or I would have tires wear issues due to the weight of the Diesel. It might even have been here that I read that way back then.
I have some friends & fellow park volunteers who insist on running maximum psi in their E rated tires (80#) because that’s what is on the tire. While that assures that the tire will carry the load for which it is rated, all of the tires on their DRW truck are worn slick on the center of the tread. This indicates that the tread is crowning in the middle and the contact patch is greatly reduced. This causes much more problems than just tire wear. The reduced contact patch sets up a dangerous condition when driving on wet roads or snow, especially when the tread wears like this.
On my previous truck, an SRW F-350, I ran 65 psi when solo & 80 psi (maximum for E rated tires) when towing the 5th wheel. With my present DRW F-350, I keep 75 psi in the front & 65 psi in the rear duals whether I’m towing or solo. This way I don’t have to air up or down & the tire wear looks good to me at 50,000 miles. I have carefully checked the tire temperatures with an infrared thermometer while towing &the rear tires look normal, not at all low.
I’m certainly not saying that this is what everyone should do. I’m just saying that it works well for me.
 

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If they set the tires at max cold, then they heat up while driving, they will be over that pressure and cause center center tread wear issues. That is why I stated "close to max" which I guess is pretty ambiguous. My point was that I've talked to people that should be driving a half ton and want the ride of a 1/2 ton so they try running much lower pressures to soften the ride. Even though they may not load the truck, they are still carrying that diesel engine around in the front.

I usually run about 75 all the way around SRW weighing in just over 9000lbs bobtail when when the fuel tanks and toolbox are full. I've never had wear issues. We also don't see nearly as many stupid hot days up here as you would in the south so tire wear is probably less of an issue. I don't adjust when I hook up to something but I'm also never exceeding 10K trailer weight.
 

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I don't know a whole lot about weight distribution although had to make a post here the other day about it, I know my boss just went through this with his 2018 he had to ditch the weight distribution and just keep the anti sway due to the truck needing the tongue weight, anti sway was necessary but the truck I believe had no weight rating difference between conventional and weight distribution and he has not had an issue since I feel his problem was a light back end
 

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I was under the impression that trucks with the trailer tow package had trailer sway control.
From what I have seen it's more of an emergency braking system for when it goes really bad...
 

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To properly set up a WD hitch download the instructions from the manufacturers website. Most people don't understand the process.

In regards to tire pressure, you should use the vehicle manufacturer's label on the door jamb, not the sidewall of the tire. Often, the manufacturer has a lower pressure recommendation than the tire sidewall. This is done to keep within the correct capacity of the truck as designed.

Tom
 

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I tried different hitches and checked my tongue weight nothing helped. I ended up trading it in on a new Chevrolet Duramax it pulls it with no problems
Nothing learned here...how do you explain it? How are the suspensions different, etc.?
 

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I hate to say it but it seems to be a common issue with FORDS newer designed trucks. I went from an 06 F150 to a 15 F150 and my 28 foot 7,400 pound TT pulled great on the 06 and like crap on the 15. I spent all kinds of time and money and could only get it to feel ok, not great like the old f150. We are now looking to upgrade to a F250 but I am seeing all the same sort of posts on sway issues for 2017 f250's and up. Seems like FORD is screwing up the stability by putting in softer backends. So I guess I'm going to look for a 2016 F250 or go to a different manufacture.

Sorry for your issues, and I know this doesn't help.
 

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From experience with this issue on my 2015F150 I would advise you to get to the max tongue weight that the owners manual says you can have. That helped the most with my F150. It still isn't great but it's way better. Newer designed fords are way to picky in my opinion. You would think with all this new tech they would be more forgiving, but they are worse.
 

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I hate to say it but it seems to be a common issue with FORDS newer designed trucks. I went from an 06 F150 to a 15 F150 and my 28 foot 7,400 pound TT pulled great on the 06 and like crap on the 15. I spent all kinds of time and money and could only get it to feel ok, not great like the old f150. We are now looking to upgrade to a F250 but I am seeing all the same sort of posts on sway issues for 2017 f250's and up. Seems like FORD is screwing up the stability by putting in softer backends. So I guess I'm going to look for a 2016 F250 or go to a different manufacture.

Sorry for your issues, and I know this doesn't help.



You are spot on! I had the exact same issue. Towed my Coleman 274BH with a 2014 F150 2WD with 3.15 gearing up and over the Ike Gauntlet, from Rockford IL to Bryce Canyon Utah and back using a cheap Husky roundbar WDH with a single friction sway bar. Towed great. Same trailer, same hitch, and a 2016 F150 4WD FX4, towed like crap, all over the place, twitchy, swaying. Went out and bought a Blue Ox, tamed it, but didn't cure it. Truck itself had issues, mainly an issue with the truck wandering when loaded in the back which contributed to the sway, so replaced it with a 2018 RWD Platinum. That one tows better, but still not as good as the 2014 was and that is with a high end WDH and not the cheap Husky.


Same trailer, 2012 F350, and it's like there isn't a trailer back there. It was the most relaxing tow I have ever done.



My guess, that aluminum body and whatever they did to the suspension is the culprit. Now if the 17+ Superduty is also having sway issues, I am so glad now that I got the 2012.
 

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I am sure there are a ton of people out there that will argue and say it's not setup right, but the point I want to make is this. The older trucks were never this hard to get dialed in. They were way more forgiving if weights changed. People shouldn't have to be constantly rechecking weights and measurements to make sure they are still in the sweet spot. If you pay $50K or more for a truck to tow, it should tow like a dream and be hassle free. I think it's just way to hard to get in the very tiny sweet spot now.
 

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I have seen on another thread that for 2017's and up a good idea is to get the Camper package because it gives stiffer springs and a factory tuned stabilizer bar. They say that this may help with the sway, or suck and throw on the highway above 55 mph. I have no experience myself so I don't know for sure. I do know that if I end up with a 2017 I will look for that option.
 

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This could also be that the suspension on the trailer needs some bushings in the springs. The trailer shouldn't sway. Maybe you are looking in the wrong spot. Another thing are the hitches supposed to tow that much weight? I get the weight distribution hitch thing but that doesn't take any weight away from the trailer. I get it some trucks may tow your trailer great but not all trucks are the same. I am not sure its the truck that more like the tail wagging the dog.
If your truck sags with a load than you need air bags. You could get stiffer springs but it would hurt ride quality. With air bags you can soften the ride a little and level the truck. I have a 5th wheel and hooked up my 15 F250 would sag. Got the air bags and trailer tows like a dream. I know it's not the same but sag is still sag. You want everything to be as level as you can get it for towing. I wouldn't ever tow without air bags.
I also recommend the onboard compressor. I travel a lot with my truck and trailer. I sure got tired of airing the bags up and down at every stop. (cross country trip)
Good luck and keep us posted
 

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I am sure there are a ton of people out there that will argue and say it's not setup right, but the point I want to make is this. The older trucks were never this hard to get dialed in. They were way more forgiving if weights changed. People shouldn't have to be constantly rechecking weights and measurements to make sure they are still in the sweet spot. If you pay $50K or more for a truck to tow, it should tow like a dream and be hassle free. I think it's just way to hard to get in the very tiny sweet spot now.



You are not wrong. I can tell you for a fact the F150's are exactly this way. My 2014 towed my Coleman with ease with a simple Husky round bar with a single friction bar, but neither a 2016 nor a 2018 would tow it well with the same setup. It was all over the road. I stepped up to a Blue Ox which helped, but even with that it was still not the same as the 14 was. Now with the 12 F350, it tows wonderfully. If the 17+ super duty is having issues with handling, I can believe it. If I bought a 17+ SD and had issues towing with the tail wagging the dog, I would not be happy at all.
 

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We traded out the 2015 F150 4x4 this weekend and got a 2015 F250 6.2 Lariat 4x4. Night and day difference, and I feel comfortable towing again. No more white knuckle rides. I haven't towed with a F250 2017 and up so I don't know if the experience would be any different then my 2015 F250. As far has my experience with the F150 nothing seemed to make the truck a comfortable towing experience.

The camper was brand new when we got the F150, and I do not think it was a problem with the camper. Ford made us bring the camper into a dealership and they hooked it up to a 2017/18 F150 2WD and that test truck performed well with no hitch adjustments at all. That was with my 1000/10000 equalizer.

The trailer was also tested on a chevy 1500hd, a chevy 2500hd, a ram 1500 v6, and my original 2006 F150, all with no issues and no hitch setup on any other then the 06 F160.

To help combat the poor towing the following things were done to the F150.

1) Upgraded Equalizer Hitch from a 1000/10000 to 1200/12000.
2) Purchased Load Range E tires for the F150
3) Purchased Timbrens for the F150
4) Purchased new Bilstein rear shocks for F150
5) Had FORD flash the steering on the F150 to a newer code version. (This helped somewhat)

The ford dealership actually made us take the timbrens back off and revert back to the original bump stops.

I found on several forums people saying that tongue weight says it should be 10 to 15%, but that in their experience these newer Aluminum body F150's needed 14 to 15% or else it felt funny. So i bumped my tongue weight up as much as I could and got to a little below 14%. That definitely helped the most, but I still could feel the camper back there when another vehicle would pass me. Driving in any kind of cross wind was crazy unnerving.

Just for the record the camper is a 28 foot box, but from hitch to bumper it's about 32 or 33 feet. It's dry weight is 7,400 lbs. I went to scales and had things weighed and then posted my pictures and results of my hitch setup online. Most people agreed that it looked to be setup properly. I also called equalizer and asked for more guidance from them. After giving them my measurements they felt the setup was correct. They did tell me however that they wouldn't suggest the use of timbrens or air bags with a weight distribution hitch like theirs. They said that the two systems are working against each other. They did say however that if you want to use airbags you can, but you need to setup the hitch with the airbags fully deflated then only use them once you connect and lock the bars in to place.

Fords owner manual has different requirements then equalizers manual however. Ford wants you to get 25% of the weight sent up to the front where equalizer wants 50%, at least for the 2015 F150 manual. I think this is to combat the steering issue you get with the WD hitches. By this issue I am referring to the tendency of the truck to want to keep turning to a direction after you complete the turn. The truck takes a long time to figure out you want to go straight after a hard turn like you do at an intersection.


So these are my experiences. Take them for what you want. I do not claim to be an expert at any of this.
 

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That sounds pretty close to my experiences with the 2016 Lariat. It was an FX4, which I found is the WORST option to get. It has crappy soft shocks with slow rebound, cheap skid plates made of plastic, and if you get it with the Max Tow, you pay twice for the elocker. I replaced the shocks all around with Bilstiens 5100. That took care of the rear end wanting to pass the front on a bumpy curve, but did little else when towing.

Here is what mine did, and not even the Blue Ox corrected it. On smooth flat pavement it was fine, but when there were expansion joints, or cracks, it would cause the truck to bounce left, right, left right, etc, so I was constantly rocking the steering wheel to stay in the lane. With the friction bar sway, it would build and build and finally you would hear a POP from the rear and the truck and trailer would straighten out and settle down a bit, then build up all over again. Heading east on I80 entering Iowa from Nebraska was the worst. I discovered I could reproduce the issue with 1400 pounds in the be distributed as if I had the trailer and stuff in the bed, so the problem was the truck. I eventually sued Ford over it because they could not fix it and it was past lemon law on miles, and won.

I got my 2018 Platinum and tow the same trailer with the Blue Ox hitch. It tows much better, but had issues going to Kentucky with sway and discovered the bars for the BO were too heavy for the tongue weight, and got lighter bars. That fixed the sway issue, and the truck handled the trailer much better. I can definitely feel passing trucks and cross winds and can feel pickups and SUV's when they pass when towing with the F150, but it towed OK. It is almost as good towing as the 2014 was, but not quite as good as it should be.

The F350 however is a worry free tow. No push/pull from passing semis. I didn't even bother going through the setup on the BO, I just set the ball height as close to 1" higher than the trailer as I could, and used 10 links on the chains. Don't really need the WDH, was an inch above the helper springs, but the sway control comes in handy.

There are some that think the F150 HDPP is the ideal towing rig, but what they fail to understand, it weighs no more than a non HDPP, in fact it may even weigh less. It can't take more tongue weight either. If one is going to tow a heavy travel trailer, it is better to go to an F250/350 for more than just payload, it just handles towing so much better.
 

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Tow a 25' Jayco Travel Trailer with spring over axle and with 30' Goodyear Kevlar A/Ts and she is tall and with the extended water tank (60 Gallons), propane tanks, etc. like driving a brick! Anyhow when fully loaded down with full water, gear, etc. she weighs about 9k and she sways a bit but not as much as my Duramax did but the truck did come with the SnowPlow, 5th Wheel and Camper prep. packages which may help out my situation but as mentioned above make sure all tires are set correct psi, truck and trailer is level and maybe try a different hitch set up? I use a Husky w/sway bars. You will get it set up Im sure but its frustrating Im sure! Good luck!
 
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