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My 2017 Lariat didn't come with upfitter switches, neither did my 2011 King Ranch but I was able to install the upfitter switches rather easy by purchasing the switches. It was a plug and play scenario on my 2011 King Ranch. The dealer is telling me that on the 2017 you cannot install upfitter switches on trucks that did not come with them? Does anybody have any insight into the 2017 problem that I am being told.

thank you
 

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If I recall correctly, on the 2011 you got switches. On the 2017 you get switches, wiring, relays, and fuses. I'd guess you'd have to find and install all of that to make it the same.
 

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My 2017 Lariat didn't come with upfitter switches, neither did my 2011 King Ranch but I was able to install the upfitter switches rather easy by purchasing the switches. It was a plug and play scenario on my 2011 King Ranch. The dealer is telling me that on the 2017 you cannot install upfitter switches on trucks that did not come with them? Does anybody have any insight into the 2017 problem that I am being told.

thank you
You are correct that the unlike prior model years the upfitter switches are not something that can be added and the truck must be built with them. In prior model year trucks the switches were in essence a self contained sub system that was for the most part a plug and play add on. Now, in 2017 the system is heavily integrated into the vehicle: multiple main wiring harnesses, power distribution box, body control module (and programming) upfitter relay box and of course the switches, overhead console and headliner if not equipped. All of this makes it really impractical to add after the fact not to mention expensive. Yeah, if someone want to make the argument that it can be done with enough money and effort anything is technically possible.
 

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Now that's just great. Pay 48000.00 for new truck and can't add upfitter switches to it. What a bunch of crap. Any ideas on after market?
Sorry but research before buy is todays game. Try this Painless Performance, it will insure you do not screw up any of the vehicle systems.
 

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I'm just asking, my switches are in my '07, that's probably old skool to whats in them now.

Would the 2011 kit fit the dash?

If so, could the supply side of the switches be hand-wired to the battery with an accessory relay to kill them when the truck is shut off?

Probably need ford_doctor to chime in on this one.
 

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I'm just asking, my switches are in my '07, that's probably old skool to whats in them now.

Would the 2011 kit fit the dash?

If so, could the supply side of the switches be hand-wired to the battery with an accessory relay to kill them when the truck is shut off?

Probably need ford_doctor to chime in on this one.
A 2017 truck is a different animal than any prior model year and add on kits will not plug and play in any way; physically or electrically. Of course, with a little creative fabrication, wiring diagrams and some thought I suppose an older kit could be used for its parts and the availability of a clear wiring diagram. At least having a bank of switches, the relay block and a harness connecting the two is a good start and you would need to fabricate a housing and bracket to mount the switches. You would still need to fabricate fuse protected feeds to the relays - preferrably isolated from any of the factory wiring only tapping into a switched ignition circuit and the dash illumination circuit.
 

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On my Cab chassis I am adding a custom flatbed, and in this flatbed will be a battery box, and in this box there will be at least 2 6V large capacity cells, The idea I have for this is to wire in the transfer pump, compressors and a knarly inverter. I would like to intercept the charge for the trailer and run it to a fuse panel and then on to the battery . Then run battery power to a fuse distribution to the trailer and all the auxiliaries. I did get the extra heavy duty dual alternators.
Any advice? I figure there is a diode isolating the trailer charge if not I will add one. Would not mind being able to backfeed and start should the truck batteries have issues.
 

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On my Cab chassis I am adding a custom flatbed, and in this flatbed will be a battery box, and in this box there will be at least 2 6V large capacity cells, The idea I have for this is to wire in the transfer pump, compressors and a knarly inverter. I would like to intercept the charge for the trailer and run it to a fuse panel and then on to the battery . Then run battery power to a fuse distribution to the trailer and all the auxiliaries. I did get the extra heavy duty dual alternators.
Any advice? I figure there is a diode isolating the trailer charge if not I will add one. Would not mind being able to backfeed and start should the truck batteries have issues.

The trailer tow circuits are RELAY isolated and have their own fuses. You will find the fuse and relay information in your owner's guide. The trailer tow battery charge circuit on a 2000 F-Super Duty is live at all times with the ignition in run. This circuit is in no way suitable for a back-feed situation.You might be better off running dedicated battery cables from the primary battery (diesel) and isolating the batteries with a suitable relay that is controlled by an ignition feed. Mind you that this also is not an ideal set up for a dead battery scenario. I assume you intend to connect the 6V batteries in series?
 

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On my Cab chassis I am adding a custom flatbed, and in this flatbed will be a battery box, and in this box there will be at least 2 6V large capacity cells, The idea I have for this is to wire in the transfer pump, compressors and a knarly inverter. I would like to intercept the charge for the trailer and run it to a fuse panel and then on to the battery . Then run battery power to a fuse distribution to the trailer and all the auxiliaries. I did get the extra heavy duty dual alternators.
Any advice? I figure there is a diode isolating the trailer charge if not I will add one. Would not mind being able to backfeed and start should the truck batteries have issues.
Have a look near the end of my work log starting at post #64, the link is below. It might give you some ideas for your setup. My aux batteries were mainly installed to run an Espar coolant heater and the HVAC system fan. I actually didn't connect my 1500W invertor to them as I thought it should stay connected via the 2/0 cable right to the much larger engine batteries and have the engine running / alternator charging anytime I hook up a significant load. The alternator was upgraded to over 200A and larger hot/ground cables were added.

Your needs may be different but it might give you a couple ideas.
 

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Thanks, your right I did get some from it. My batteries will be in the bed, and about 4X what the trucks is in Capacity.
 

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Mine ended up in the cab from the recommendation of a battery expert reminding me that in the -30 weather, they will lose over half their capacity. I'm using them to heat the cab so they will be warm and retain full capacity. I really need to add one more, I'm getting down to 12v after running the heater for 10 hours, that DOD will reduce their life significantly if I keep doing it.

If you are staying out of the real cold, outside is probably better so you can have more capacity just like your doing.
 

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That is not true, at least for a 2018 truck, I just got mine back from the dealer who forgot to add the switches when I ordered my truck and took the truck back and in a day installed the upfitter switches, they look just like the factory installed them
 

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You are correct that the unlike prior model years the upfitter switches are not something that can be added and the truck must be built with them. In prior model year trucks the switches were in essence a self contained sub system that was for the most part a plug and play add on. Now, in 2017 the system is heavily integrated into the vehicle: multiple main wiring harnesses, power distribution box, body control module (and programming) upfitter relay box and of course the switches, overhead console and headliner if not equipped. All of this makes it really impractical to add after the fact not to mention expensive. Yeah, if someone want to make the argument that it can be done with enough money and effort anything is technically possible.
Is this true for the universal garage door opener on the 2019 Lariats?
 

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I think it’s a plug and play deal with garage door opener visor. You remove yours and install and plug in the new one. I’ve heard you might have to find a truck with the same color visor as yours with the garage door openers and use the VIN from that truck to order one for your truck.
 

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The Home-Link unit in the visor is a stand alone deal, or at least it always has been. As mentioned just replace the visor with one equipped with it.
 

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The Home-Link unit in the visor is a stand alone deal, or at least it always has been. As mentioned just replace the visor with one equipped with it.
Thanks for the info Dr. I removed the sun vision on my 2019 F250 Lariat - there is a small quick disconnect for the lighted mirror. The wiring diagram shows two wires. Hot and neutral. Can the one hot activate all three switches on the universal Gurage door opener and the vanity mirror? If the new visior with the UGDO had two wires, I guess I’m purchasing a new visor.
 

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From what I’ve heard/read that’s all you need is power and a ground. Everything is in the visor for Homelink.
 
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