Ok so after a cold spell my 2019 f250 super duty batteries die if I don’t plug up my glow plug heater at night. So after I get it back going and I can drive for 3 hours and if I turn the truck off it kills the batteries again. Never while driving but cables are right and charging is good. Any ideas or help please thanks guys
2019 f250
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Joined
·
9,234 Posts
If they are the stock batteries in some areas 4 years is about all you will get out of a set. Heat in the summer and cold in the winter suck the charge right out of them, but heat does it even more. You may want to get a full charge on both batteries and have them load tested while they are disconnected from each other. But quite often that doesn't really give you a indication if the batteries are good or bad.
Other than that you may want to check to see if you have a draw with the truck off. Also you have a block heater that works independently of the glow plugs and warming the coolant and to a lesser extent the oil will help in a cold start.
Other than that you may want to check to see if you have a draw with the truck off. Also you have a block heater that works independently of the glow plugs and warming the coolant and to a lesser extent the oil will help in a cold start.
My '02 had a bad parasitic draw of 1.1 Amps when I bought it, that I was unaware of.
bought truck and headed out for home from Montana.
Stopped in Utah to visit family and just parked it in the pasture.
4 days later, went to drive it, and nothing.
battery down to 4 volts. #$%^&*
Put a charger on them, got it going, and have kept a Battery Tender on it ever since, right up until I sent the Gauge panel in for repair.
ended my problem, Parasitic draw is now 0.004 amps
If the temps are going below 32*, I still put a battery tender on it, as once batteries have been sucked down below 10 volts, they are toast.... I am just going to keep them going for as long as I can put it off, AGMs are damn expensive, my Alternator regulates at 14.4 all the time.
bought truck and headed out for home from Montana.
Stopped in Utah to visit family and just parked it in the pasture.
4 days later, went to drive it, and nothing.
battery down to 4 volts. #$%^&*
Put a charger on them, got it going, and have kept a Battery Tender on it ever since, right up until I sent the Gauge panel in for repair.
ended my problem, Parasitic draw is now 0.004 amps
If the temps are going below 32*, I still put a battery tender on it, as once batteries have been sucked down below 10 volts, they are toast.... I am just going to keep them going for as long as I can put it off, AGMs are damn expensive, my Alternator regulates at 14.4 all the time.
couple of month back, took the Suburban to town, daughter went into Aldi's and was reading a book.
my foot rested on the brake pedal just a touch.
when she came out 15 or 20 minutes later, the starter solenoid did not even click.
a friendly Aldi customer took me to Walmart and we replaced the battery
Ok so check this out I scanned my truck even though no check light on and it said I had a left rear tail light out and so I replaced the bulb and the truck now starts like it should no weak battery and I’ve not had ti jump it or charge it at all since 230 pm today. So I’m going to not charge it over night just so my usual end of day routine I’ll get back tomorrow morning and give an update. Super weird
Joined
·
1,003 Posts
If you keep draining these batteries then eventually they will become junk./If you keep doing this it will eat the alternator as well The batteries that come in our trucks seem to be a lesser quality than the ones the dealer sells. I don't know why. I have Motorcraft batteries in my 5 fords and have gotten great service from them. They have been replaced after the first year when I got my cars and truck.
Glad for your fix but I strongly suspect the parasitic draw John referred to...
Many posts I've read mention the ~1.1-amp drain, which I also have. Some owners have gone to great lengths in attempts to find and fix the problem, none successfully that I've found. Many just say to keep a tender (rated 2 A or more) on the batteries and disconnect them when the tender is not available.
Your post is the first I've read that reports an actual fix. So if ok to ask, what led you to the gauge panel (instrument cluster?), and where to send for repair? (Would be nice to know what they did, but guess they're not saying.
)Much better to fix, if possible (unless it costs a fortune lol).
Cost? $154.00 turn around with Postage for return.
Cost me $14ish to send it to them
1st,
I am 80 years old, and a retired Electronics Technician who specialized in Diagnostics.
2nd,
I read every thing I can find, I watch every YouTube on the topic of choice,
I stop the videos and write up a document that contains the Relevant Points.
3rd,
After several months of accumulating as much info as I could glom onto, and learning "what is Web Gossip" vs what is most likely the truth, it came down to the Instrument Gauge Panel cluster Relay that controls the power to Lights/radio for 'X' number of minutes after the Key is turned OFF. It is stuck in the Closed Position ( contacts welded shut )
that is the #1 cause of Parasitic Draw.
as for who to send it to for repair?
I did a Google search for cluster panel repairs, and combined that with suggestions in Ford Forums, and narrowed it down to two that " I trusted ", and the one I used gives an Unlimited Lifetime Warranty on their work.
![Rectangle Font Circle Handwriting Art]()
--------
how do my Documents look?
here is one on Door Ajar, it is my Last Issue to Fix, and the last one that I researched heavy.
------
The Vehicle Security Module (VSM) is the module that monitors the door ajar switches. If VSM is on the scan tool menu, see if the PIDs can be found there.
If a scan tool is not available, start out with applying a generous amount of penetrating oil to the door latches. Open and close the door several times to work the penetrating oil into the sticking door ajar switch. Even though you have tried this , try it once more just to be sure. It sometimes takes a few dozen times to unstick a bad switch. makes sure to hit the rear tail gate as well.
If the door ajar light and dome lights still stay on, access the VSM and check the door ajar switch inputs with a voltmeter to narrow down which circuit is keeping the lights on.
C2113a has the door ajar inputs. Pin 11 Light Green/Yellow (LG/Y) is the driver's side rear door. Pin 6 Pink/Light Blue (PK/LB) is the passenger side rear door. Pin 4 Yellow/Black (YE/BK) is the driver's door. Pin 5 Gray/Red (GY/RD) is the passenger front door. Pin 12 Tan/Light Green (TN/LG) is the liftgate ajar switch. The liftgate has a switch in both the left and right side latches.
Check the voltages on the wire, there will be about 5 volts on the wire with the door open and should read 0 volts with the door closed.
At each door, there is a wire Loom that extends from the Door Pillar to the Door.
That Loom gets frayed over time, and Friction destroys the wire insulation.
Open that loom up and look for bad wires. If you find a bad wire, cut in two, slip Heat Shrink Tube over on end… Solder the wire. Slide heat shrink tube over joint, and apply heat gun.
Replace the Loom if it is bad.
----
The VSM is what monitors the Door Switches and controls the Door Ajar Light ----- test the connections at the VSM --- towards the doors, and towards the VSM --- if it has a fault on the VSM's connector, the VSM is bad ----- if a pin tests bad towards the door, that wire will tell you which door.
Actually, in this instance the VSM will report which door is bad on ForScan.
------
just because you disconnected the Door Ajar Switches, does not eliminate the wiring harness, which is where the problem is 90% of the time.
------
ForScan:
if you do not have this App, you need it.
It works on Fords and their products, where normal OBDII scanners do not.
Go to FORScan Home
download the app.
They have a Windows PC / Laptops version, for that you can use a USB dongle, or a Bluetooth Dongle.
This is the USB dongle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HRR1QMH/
Bluetooth Dongle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TFCQ3VX/
=============================
that is a Word Document, I just pulled it up, Control-A, Control-C to copy text.
then here, Control-V to paste, then I edit it for correct line spacing, for some reason, Word Documents Triple Space when pasted into Forums.
Cost me $14ish to send it to them
1st,
I am 80 years old, and a retired Electronics Technician who specialized in Diagnostics.
2nd,
I read every thing I can find, I watch every YouTube on the topic of choice,
I stop the videos and write up a document that contains the Relevant Points.
3rd,
After several months of accumulating as much info as I could glom onto, and learning "what is Web Gossip" vs what is most likely the truth, it came down to the Instrument Gauge Panel cluster Relay that controls the power to Lights/radio for 'X' number of minutes after the Key is turned OFF. It is stuck in the Closed Position ( contacts welded shut )
that is the #1 cause of Parasitic Draw.
as for who to send it to for repair?
I did a Google search for cluster panel repairs, and combined that with suggestions in Ford Forums, and narrowed it down to two that " I trusted ", and the one I used gives an Unlimited Lifetime Warranty on their work.
--------
how do my Documents look?
here is one on Door Ajar, it is my Last Issue to Fix, and the last one that I researched heavy.
------
The Vehicle Security Module (VSM) is the module that monitors the door ajar switches. If VSM is on the scan tool menu, see if the PIDs can be found there.
If a scan tool is not available, start out with applying a generous amount of penetrating oil to the door latches. Open and close the door several times to work the penetrating oil into the sticking door ajar switch. Even though you have tried this , try it once more just to be sure. It sometimes takes a few dozen times to unstick a bad switch. makes sure to hit the rear tail gate as well.
If the door ajar light and dome lights still stay on, access the VSM and check the door ajar switch inputs with a voltmeter to narrow down which circuit is keeping the lights on.
C2113a has the door ajar inputs. Pin 11 Light Green/Yellow (LG/Y) is the driver's side rear door. Pin 6 Pink/Light Blue (PK/LB) is the passenger side rear door. Pin 4 Yellow/Black (YE/BK) is the driver's door. Pin 5 Gray/Red (GY/RD) is the passenger front door. Pin 12 Tan/Light Green (TN/LG) is the liftgate ajar switch. The liftgate has a switch in both the left and right side latches.
Check the voltages on the wire, there will be about 5 volts on the wire with the door open and should read 0 volts with the door closed.
At each door, there is a wire Loom that extends from the Door Pillar to the Door.
That Loom gets frayed over time, and Friction destroys the wire insulation.
Open that loom up and look for bad wires. If you find a bad wire, cut in two, slip Heat Shrink Tube over on end… Solder the wire. Slide heat shrink tube over joint, and apply heat gun.
Replace the Loom if it is bad.
----
The VSM is what monitors the Door Switches and controls the Door Ajar Light ----- test the connections at the VSM --- towards the doors, and towards the VSM --- if it has a fault on the VSM's connector, the VSM is bad ----- if a pin tests bad towards the door, that wire will tell you which door.
Actually, in this instance the VSM will report which door is bad on ForScan.
------
just because you disconnected the Door Ajar Switches, does not eliminate the wiring harness, which is where the problem is 90% of the time.
------
ForScan:
if you do not have this App, you need it.
It works on Fords and their products, where normal OBDII scanners do not.
Go to FORScan Home
download the app.
They have a Windows PC / Laptops version, for that you can use a USB dongle, or a Bluetooth Dongle.
This is the USB dongle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HRR1QMH/
Bluetooth Dongle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TFCQ3VX/
=============================
that is a Word Document, I just pulled it up, Control-A, Control-C to copy text.
then here, Control-V to paste, then I edit it for correct line spacing, for some reason, Word Documents Triple Space when pasted into Forums.
Oh, today's check on Parasitic Draw shows the cluster panel and ECM has not gone to Sleep yet, it is still pulling 00.66 Amps, after it has gone to "sleep" it will drop off to 0.004 Amps.
took this picture at noon today.
![Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Vehicle]()
Rotated and Scaled Pix down for better Readability:
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle registration plate Automotive lighting Vehicle]()
took this picture at noon today.
Rotated and Scaled Pix down for better Readability:
Hmm, some parallels here. Seemingly anal compilation of info, check, except I use spreadsheets (for ease of linking and indexing, and just getting started with diesels). Built first Oscope at 14 in the 70s, love the smell of burning rosin in the morning lol.
Your material is better quality though, ready to paste right into a wiki. On average, probably big time savings as compared to following service manual procedures.
Thanks much for zeroing in the target. Going to check this out once it warms up a little. Curious why you didn't do the relay replacement, clearly having the skills. Guessing thru-hole mount with reasonable clearance for access but, dunno, maybe brittle plastic or other complication?
Joined
·
5,465 Posts
BIG difference between a 2019 Super Duty and a 2002 Excursion.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
