Cost? $154.00 turn around with Postage for return.
Cost me $14ish to send it to them
I am 80 years old, and a retired Electronics Technician who specialized in Diagnostics.
I read every thing I can find, I watch every YouTube on the topic of choice,
I stop the videos and write up a document that contains the Relevant Points.
After several months of accumulating as much info as I could glom onto, and learning "what is Web Gossip" vs what is most likely the truth, it came down to the Instrument Gauge Panel cluster Relay that controls the power to Lights/radio for 'X' number of minutes after the Key is turned OFF. It is stuck in the Closed Position ( contacts welded shut )
that is the #1 cause of Parasitic Draw.
as for who to send it to for repair?
I did a Google search for cluster panel repairs, and combined that with suggestions in Ford Forums, and narrowed it down to two that " I trusted ", and the one I used gives an Unlimited Lifetime Warranty on their work.
how do my Documents look?
here is one on Door Ajar, it is my Last Issue to Fix, and the last one that I researched heavy.
The Vehicle Security Module (VSM) is the module that monitors the door ajar switches. If VSM is on the scan tool menu, see if the PIDs can be found there.
If a scan tool is not available, start out with applying a generous amount of penetrating oil to the door latches. Open and close the door several times to work the penetrating oil into the sticking door ajar switch. Even though you have tried this , try it once more just to be sure. It sometimes takes a few dozen times to unstick a bad switch. makes sure to hit the rear tail gate as well.
If the door ajar light and dome lights still stay on, access the VSM and check the door ajar switch inputs with a voltmeter to narrow down which circuit is keeping the lights on.
C2113a has the door ajar inputs. Pin 11 Light Green/Yellow (LG/Y) is the driver's side rear door. Pin 6 Pink/Light Blue (PK/LB) is the passenger side rear door. Pin 4 Yellow/Black (YE/BK) is the driver's door. Pin 5 Gray/Red (GY/RD) is the passenger front door. Pin 12 Tan/Light Green (TN/LG) is the liftgate ajar switch. The liftgate has a switch in both the left and right side latches.
Check the voltages on the wire, there will be about 5 volts on the wire with the door open and should read 0 volts with the door closed.
At each door, there is a wire Loom that extends from the Door Pillar to the Door.
That Loom gets frayed over time, and Friction destroys the wire insulation.
Open that loom up and look for bad wires. If you find a bad wire, cut in two, slip Heat Shrink Tube over on end… Solder the wire. Slide heat shrink tube over joint, and apply heat gun.
Replace the Loom if it is bad.
The VSM is what monitors the Door Switches and controls the Door Ajar Light ----- test the connections at the VSM --- towards the doors, and towards the VSM --- if it has a fault on the VSM's connector, the VSM is bad ----- if a pin tests bad towards the door, that wire will tell you which door.
Actually, in this instance the VSM will report which door is bad on ForScan.
just because you disconnected the Door Ajar Switches, does not eliminate the wiring harness, which is where the problem is 90% of the time.
if you do not have this App, you need it.
It works on Fords and their products, where normal OBDII scanners do not.
Go to FORScan Home
download the app.
They have a Windows PC / Laptops version, for that you can use a USB dongle, or a Bluetooth Dongle.
This is the USB dongle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HRR1QMH/
Bluetooth Dongle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TFCQ3VX/
that is a Word Document, I just pulled it up, Control-A, Control-C to copy text.
then here, Control-V to paste, then I edit it for correct line spacing, for some reason, Word Documents Triple Space when pasted into Forums.