The Diesel Stop banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone! I am a relatively new 6.0 owner, and brand new to repairing it. I have an 06 with 187,000 miles on it. Recently my blinker switch quit working but i found that the hazzards still worked. I checked every fuse and found #27 blown. When i replaced the fuse, the blinkers worked but the fuse blew again within five minutes. I repeated this process five times. I was hoping that someone here had experienced a similar problem and could point me in the right direction. I am enjoying T.D.S. already.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
570 Posts
Sounds like the multi function switch (signal switch). Do your brake light work?


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,767 Posts
Is there a trailer hooked up to the truck when the fuse blows?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had pulled a trailer earlier that morning. The first time i replaced the #27 fuse I also had to replace #38. It has not continued to blow like # 27. I unplugged the blinker switch in the steering column to see if #27 would continue to blow and it did.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have also determined that the fuse only blows when the truck is running, but everything works fine with the ignition in the "on" position and not running.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Try unpluging the electrical connection at the vacuum pump on the passenger fender. It shares the same circut on the #27 fuse. Leave it unpluged, replace the fuse and recheck signals. Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you for your suggestion. I tried unplugging the vaccum pump but the fuse still blew. I think i may have a short as the ohm meter says 7.12 for the #27 fuse port but reads 12 and some change for a few of the other ports i tested. Do you know if this fuse is connected to my FICM as i recently had it repaired?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Pls do NOT use an ohmmeter inside the Fuse box! All it will measure is resistance of the circuits supplied by the fuse (with fuse out) and damage the meter with the fuse in. Contacts in fuse boxes are for voltage measurement only. An ohmmeter can actually damage the FICM and PCM circuits if the fuse is in and key is on as it will modify the load causing bad info to those circuits.
I know almost nothing about diesels but I do know electronics.

As for bad signals, The flasher wires to the 4wayflash switch and from there to the signal switch. two wires (brake and flash) supply the 4wayflash switch. The 4way flash switch is actually 5 switches (sections 1-4 feed the turn signal and section 5 disables the brake wire from supplying the signal switch during 4way operation). The multifunction switch has wipe/wash/hi-lo beam/front left/rear left/front right/rear right sections to it. A wiring short &/or breakage can cause any one of these sections to malfunction even to the point of blowing fuses.

Because the fuse blows when blinkers are unplugged, I would start by checking for a short in wiring to the flasher first. You can remove the flasher to see if it still blows. Flashers do short out and fail.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I disconnected the flasher relay and teh fuse still blew. According to the wiring diacram the heated mirror relay is on this circut but i dont see it mentioned in the fuse box diagram and i dont know where to find it so that i can unplug it and see if it is the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was wondering if it could be the ignition cylinder itself. It is very loose and i can easily slide the key out while i am driving down the road. Might there be something in there that could be shorting out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
The ignition is a whole other matter. As far as I can tell, it's wiring runs separate from the group that control signals but they may be grouped together under the dash so I would look for any signs of burnt wires, wire splices, etc that could make the wires come into contact with each other.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I found it!!!!

The hard plastic wire holder that runs across the engine compartment along the back had sagged down on top of the hard metal line on top of the turbo and had rubbed/melted the wire that goes to the vaccum pump. The plastic push pins that held this wire holder in place were broken. I dont know if this is common but it had me stumped for a while. Thank you to everyone who took time to offer advice for this problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
I know this is a old post but just had the same problem. Turns out it was a wire that runs to some sensor or switch on the manual transmission/transfer on the passenger side. The wire runs from the driver side over the top to the passenger side and had rubbed through
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I found it!!!!

The hard plastic wire holder that runs across the engine compartment along the back had sagged down on top of the hard metal line on top of the turbo and had rubbed/melted the wire that goes to the vaccum pump. The plastic push pins that held this wire holder in place were broken. I dont know if this is common but it had me stumped for a while. Thank you to everyone who took time to offer advice for this problem.
I concur had the same issue with my truck fixed the wires that were worn and mounted the bracket properly and issue fixed. You can see where they were rubbing on top of the turbo.
Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Bumper
Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top